Showing posts with label 20th century. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 20th century. Show all posts

Friday, 29 October 2010

A twenties coat

This is the youngest of my old clothes, and teh straight cut and single button makes me date it to the twenties. It's much larger than the other clothes, so I guess the woman who owned them became a bit fatter when she grew older. I'm not sure of the fabric, it's quite dull, but it's not wool. Silk/cotton, perhaps? It's quite lightweight, definitely not a coat for the cold Swedish winters. It's closed with one big button, and a hook and eye a bit higher up than the button. It's lined with very lightweight black silk. The collar, sleeves and hem are decorated with, well it's not lace, exactly. It's tulle decorated with coils of braid. I've never seen anything similar, actually. It's in great condition except the lining at the neck. My grandmother stored it hanging and that wasn't good for the fragile silk.
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Detail of the hem.
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Thursday, 28 October 2010

A skirt and two petticoats

Skirt in very crisp silk taffeta. Made of straight pieces. Front and back looks the same, The skirt is slightly gathered to the waistband, and then there are three pleats on each side. Unfortunately I didn't managed to take any good pics. I think it may be from around 1910. Like the other skirt it has a very tiny waists, around 50 cm.
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A petticoat made of four pieces. Two slightly gored front pieces, and two curved back pieces. Though it's in silk taffeta, it's not as well made as the other clothes. The ruffle is not finsihed, and very uneven, though that can be because it has been worn a lot. The pocket at the hem is not finsihed either. My guess is 189's.

Front is where my son holds it. Lots of fabric in the back.
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Detail of pocket and hem.
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Detail of inside hem.
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A petticoat made of straight pieces, that has been very carefully gathered at the waist. I don't know what kind of fabric it's made off. It's quite sturdy. Early 1900's is my guess.

It has a beautful pocket,
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The waist is constructed a bit oddly. I should have taken more pics, but I'll try to explain. The gathers are held in place with two gathering threads, as you can see on the pic. On the inside a tape is sewn to it, ca 5 cm wide. Then the waist band is only sewn to the petticoat with a few stitches. It seems that when it was worn, it must have looked more like a belt, than a waist band.
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Actually, I'm not at all sure anymore why I think the last one is a petticoat and not a skirt. I haven't looked carefully on these clothes since I took the photos and that's six years ago. Time to check them out again, I think.

Wednesday, 27 October 2010

An Edwardian dress, I think

The dress consists of a bodice and a skirt in black, rather dull silk. I think it's Edwardian, but again, I'm not altogether sure. I believe that it's younger than the previous bodice as I know that they have belonged to the same woman and this bodice is considerably larger. Also, the skirt has definitely not been worn with a bustle. The bodice is in very good shape, and very well made. I think it's so beautiful!

The front of the bodice. It closes with hook and eyes off centre. I didn't manage to get a good pic of the collar, but it's high and made of lace without lining. It has stiffening sewn to it at two places so it could stand.

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Detail of the front. I think the decoration is just lovely.

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The back of the bodice.

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On the front the folds on each side of the lace are sewn to the bodice all the way, in fact the closure is hidden behind one of them. On the back, however, they are just stitched to the bodice at the shoulder and hem.
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Details of the inside, front. The silk is backed with pretty heavy cotton, and almost all seams are reinforeced with bones in light blue casings. There are no signs of anything altered, or removed. I am, however, at loss of the () shaped seam at the front inside.
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The inside of the back. You can see the stiffening on the collar here.
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The sleeves are tight, with a small slit at the wrists. The opening is trimmed with very transparent silk.
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The inside of the armscye. As you can see the arm in lined with two layers of fabric. I would think it's the same with the rest of the bodice, but that is impossible to see.
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The skirt has broad lace insertion down the front, the same as on the bodice. Slightly gored. When I said that the bodice is larger than the other one, it's still tiny. The waist is only 50 centimetres!
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Detail of the front.
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Detail of inside.
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Saturday, 23 October 2010

An Edwardian cape

I have no good reasons to why I think this cape is younger than the other two, but a friend is certain it's early 20th century. It's in excellent condition. It looks brand new, and can't have been worn much. It's made of taffeta, with appliques made of silk velvet. There are also two rows of silk fringe. It's closed with a small clasp set with white stones.
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Detail of the front.
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Detail of the front's inside. The stitching for the appliques go straight through the lining.
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Wednesday, 13 October 2010

More masquerade

Yesterdays post about 18th century masquerade costumes made me remember a batch of early 20th century pictures of various costumes. I can’t recall the source- someone on LJ I think. So if someone feels she ought to be credited for these images, please holler.

I love how some clearly are meant to be 18th century.
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I need an occasion for making one of these. I’m particularly fond of the French Revolution gal- at least I assume she is that, and the rose. Or is it a peony?

Wednesday, 23 September 2009

Family portraits

I love watching old photographs; they are a great resource when it comes to fashion. And it’s especially fun to do it when it’s family. So here are a couple of my great-grandmothers.

My father’s paternal grandmother Elisa, my namesake. The photo is taken in 1890 when she was ten years old. She was something of a tom-boy, there are letters from her mother to her father where it says; Elin (Elisa's older sister) is daily to my help and joy, but Elisa brings me to despair with her wild ways.
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Elisa was a very talented musician and wanted to be a concert pianist, but that was an unthinkable career for a wealthy girl from a manor house at that time. She rebelled in her own way, I suppose, when she married my great-grandfather, who came from really poor circumstances, though he had worked himself upward with the help of a brilliant brain.

The shape of her eyes is a very distinct family characteristic, and it can be traced back as far as there are photos, i.e. to around 1850. My grandfather had them to, and so have my father and his siblings. I have the general shape, though not as heavy-lidded, but I look at her hands and I realize that mine are the same and so is my son’s.

And this is her mother, Laura. I love her dress. I’m not sure when this portrait was taken, but she was born in 1840 and died sometime in the 1890’s. One of her ancestress, and therefore mine too, was Ingela Hammar, probably the only female privateer Sweden has ever had. She was married to Lasse i Gatan and ran the privateer business with him, and also, successfully, after his death.
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An unknown relative.
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My father’s maternal grandmother Lydia aged four, with her little brother. She was born in the 1880’s.
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And at 15.
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25 years old. If I inherited my eyes and hands from Elisa, Lydia gave me the rest. She’s much prettier than I am, but I resemble her quite a bit.
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Her mother Matilda. She was a Walloon and one of her ancestress was accused, but aquitted of being a witch in the late 17th century. I would like to know more about that trial.
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