tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-75805957534563079192024-03-14T20:05:49.632+01:00Isis' WardrobeIsishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09380497568603304818noreply@blogger.comBlogger354125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580595753456307919.post-87324348059703306372020-10-28T14:40:00.004+01:002020-10-28T14:40:37.794+01:00A review of Wearing History's Smooth Sailing 1930s Sport Togs- Blouse & Trousers Pattern<span id="docs-internal-guid-5417ef2b-7fff-2b6f-8c37-29a5e44d7548"><div><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-size: 14.6667px;">Wearing History recently expanded the sizes of her </span><a href="https://www.etsy.com/se-en/listing/849862666/e-pattern-extended-size-smooth-sailing?ref=shop_home_feat_2&bes=1" style="font-size: 14.6667px;" target="_blank">Smooth Sailing 1930s Sport Togs- Blouse & Trousers Pattern.</a><span style="font-size: 14.6667px;"> The original pattern package has bust sizes 30-40, and now there’s also a plus-size one in bust sizes 41-53, and waist sizes 34-46.
</span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-size: 14.6667px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp4nwpU3VcE4Gsarfg-j7IYm47L2iVw0xz13fNXU0P_ecwGbgH_pIJO-DjoQEWGRpH6gKJOvUrk-m2Tbxz2GEwMOny4IpTzc88LaLvW-K0JUUvRWlDIKjOPBAF-bl09FEXq7APlWKLB7c/s471/76768.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="471" data-original-width="352" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp4nwpU3VcE4Gsarfg-j7IYm47L2iVw0xz13fNXU0P_ecwGbgH_pIJO-DjoQEWGRpH6gKJOvUrk-m2Tbxz2GEwMOny4IpTzc88LaLvW-K0JUUvRWlDIKjOPBAF-bl09FEXq7APlWKLB7c/s16000/76768.jpg" /></a></div><span style="font-size: 14.6667px; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">
<b>My previous sewing experience:</b> I have been sewing for 35 years, and I’m used to commercial patterns. I have also used a lot of E-patterns previously. But despite making clothes for so many years I have never before made a pair of trousers with a fitted waistline, and I have never made a blouse.
<b>The pattern:</b> This was an e-pattern, which means you need a printer, a pair of sharp scissors, and either glue or tape. Also, a certain degree of patience as you need to cut out and assemble the pattern yourself. I found this pattern very easy to put together. If you print it in colour the sizes all have different colours for making it easier to cut the right size, but I printed mine in black-and-white and still found it easy.
You use your bust measurement to determine the size of the blouse and your waist measurements for the size of the trousers. My measurements are exactly a 47 bust and a 38 waist.
The pattern pieces are clearly labeled and when sewn together they also fit together very well. The trousers went together like a dream and very quickly. Well, the blouse went together like a dream too, and if you are used to sewing blouses it would probably be a fairly quick sew as well. As it was I referenced the instructions often, but I didn’t run into any problems. I found the instructions clear, and easy to understand.
<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpTJWYpW3y9zFgYKOVSCC-NS7OeiASf7l627XoC8chZ-cU1LivTHzD5pqGPpYoiiR18Wkwjov1Qw_4FqHZqheTmuGgNk4NMVToJZAxWz23yXoHmfYTLrgMQ-wFSNUvh-bsXRwMBSiYVj4/s1079/76521.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1079" data-original-width="713" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpTJWYpW3y9zFgYKOVSCC-NS7OeiASf7l627XoC8chZ-cU1LivTHzD5pqGPpYoiiR18Wkwjov1Qw_4FqHZqheTmuGgNk4NMVToJZAxWz23yXoHmfYTLrgMQ-wFSNUvh-bsXRwMBSiYVj4/s16000/76521.jpg" /></a></div></span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">
</span></div><div><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b style="font-size: 14.6667px;">The fit:</b><span style="font-size: 14.6667px;"> I confess, I'm impatient and I didn’t bother with a mock-up. In retrospect, I could have lowered the waist on the trousers a little, but they are perfectly wearable as they are. I have narrow shoulders, and I would have needed to change the pattern to accommodate that, (the pattern includes instruction for that change) but I opted for small shoulder pads instead. Otherwise, there was nothing that needed to be fixed. Both trousers and blouse fit well, but on the roomier side- if you hover between sizes you might want the smaller size. But that also depends on how snug you like your clothes to be.
</span><b style="font-size: 14.6667px;">The fabric:</b><span style="font-size: 14.6667px;"> I used cotton for both trousers and blouse; red corduroy for the trousers and stonewashed medium-weight yellow cotton for the blouse. The colours were inspired by clothing advice from a 1940s book; to pair dark red with yellow. I would never, ever have thought about it otherwise.
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisbQGh3g6tdIx3t3bgg5qEqBvIVpQDyPlai3z4KqBC95iibSjqel-YcEkFE7DVvexJWHuZzSe76CjlY2Nbv0cylBgIh5-ShoY7mKvd7jvGWZbEMbh4GYAKFSgduqOmoTVoc4WS7uUl0Ts/s960/123110119_10157861016003613_3272111445238828543_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="520" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisbQGh3g6tdIx3t3bgg5qEqBvIVpQDyPlai3z4KqBC95iibSjqel-YcEkFE7DVvexJWHuZzSe76CjlY2Nbv0cylBgIh5-ShoY7mKvd7jvGWZbEMbh4GYAKFSgduqOmoTVoc4WS7uUl0Ts/w217-h400/123110119_10157861016003613_3272111445238828543_n.jpg" width="217" /></a></div></span><b style="font-size: 14.6667px;"><div><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b style="font-size: 14.6667px;"><br /></b></span></div>The verdict:</b><span style="font-size: 14.6667px;"> I’m super pleased! So comfortable, and I think the clothes look great! I love the colour combo too- very autumn.
I’m also pleased that I had enough yellow fabric left for a skirt, and so much of the corduroy to make both a skirt and a 1930s style blazer. So basically I got a whole autumn wardrobe out of this.</span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: 14.6667px; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: 14.6667px; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz0A8c37VOZiTwGfk7G_ZO5tEMD97y5b-ywPuokm5st6B4PmVtF0V4P2wL8zYHba6OPD1MoGeDGdbNVr7L-W9RVVHdAPoHsWpYmOhMEvcv_4WRGCgNhwyH55h-gcoldxadx20B-i-9EE0/s2048/71200.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1365" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz0A8c37VOZiTwGfk7G_ZO5tEMD97y5b-ywPuokm5st6B4PmVtF0V4P2wL8zYHba6OPD1MoGeDGdbNVr7L-W9RVVHdAPoHsWpYmOhMEvcv_4WRGCgNhwyH55h-gcoldxadx20B-i-9EE0/w427-h640/71200.jpg" width="427" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-family: Arial;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></div></span>Isishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09380497568603304818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580595753456307919.post-38650738081922137832019-11-30T20:39:00.001+01:002019-11-30T20:39:33.675+01:00Middle-class women in Sweden during the 17th century<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">This is a reference post for a future project, put here for easy access when the future </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">comes. </span></div>
<b id="docs-internal-guid-a2c4f0d3-7fff-a07c-d01c-4f96a2838fde" style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></b>
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<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">I have, thanks to several interested relatives, a rather good knowledge of my own family </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">tree. And sometimes when I can’t sleep I dig around the Net, and have found several </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">portraits of my ancestors. One of them is this grim-faced lady, Kristina Olofsdotter Spak. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">(1616-1676). </span><span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">, who was a great-grandmother eleven generations removed from me.</span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyGeJh9IB_KHxxoAd7bSkHPJsrazXJDCmuKJXxlH_2mAI2Fo1r__JULlsVShDULjufgVNVjYWKqxOsjR_ApBsklypxUFJkVvg9SyiwxqHYNCzXiL8TCdyFdh2Tn5wfhyphenhyphenKhsyZN-yY0ihc/s1600/Christina_Spaak.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1108" data-original-width="988" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyGeJh9IB_KHxxoAd7bSkHPJsrazXJDCmuKJXxlH_2mAI2Fo1r__JULlsVShDULjufgVNVjYWKqxOsjR_ApBsklypxUFJkVvg9SyiwxqHYNCzXiL8TCdyFdh2Tn5wfhyphenhyphenKhsyZN-yY0ihc/s640/Christina_Spaak.jpg" width="570" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://scheelebergenheim.org/photogallery/anor_till_ploenningebarenen_fjaellaregaarden.htm" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;"><br /></span></div>
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<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">She was the wife of Johan Börjesson Carlberg, who as the mayor of Karlstad, which is the </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">biggest city in the province of Värmland, Sweden. Her father and her mother’s father had </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">previously also been mayors of the same city, so it can safely be said she belonged to the </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">upper-middle classes. When I saw this portrait I was struck by a feeling I had seen a lot of </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">similar clothes on the excellent site <a href="http://livinghistory.dk/original/" target="_blank">Dragter på epitafier og gravsten i Danmark</a> </span><span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">(Clothes on </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">epitaphs and graves in Denmark) </span><span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">The focus is, of course, on Denmark, but they have also </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">included a fair number of pictures from Sweden (and also Germany). The time periods </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">stretch from the late 15th century to the 18th century, but most are from the 17th century. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">There is also a heavy focus on priests and their families.</span></div>
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<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">I went through all the Swedish sources (Apart from those from the provinces Blekinge, </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">Halland, and Scania, as those were Danish up until 1658, and I thought it likely Danish </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">customs when it came to clothing would likely hang around. As it is the female clothes are </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">pretty similar, but there are differences in details I wanted to catch.</span></div>
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<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">A general overview of these dresses, married women a white shift, worn under a black </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">gown with an oval neckline, edged by a plain white collar. Sometimes a white apron is worn, </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">and sometimes a neckerchief covering the decollete. They wear a white cap, often worn </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">over either another white cap, or a forehead cloth, and nearly always with a black cap on </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">top. On several portraits from the regions around Lake Mälaren, red caps are worn with a </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">rather intricate veil. Lace is very rare, though sometimes the shift sleeves have a little frill, </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">and jewelry are worn sparingly, and mostly consisting of heavy metal chains. Sometimes a </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">black mantle is worn over the other clothes</span></div>
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<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">As you can see Kristina Olosdotter Spak fills in most of the slots. She is on the plain side with </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">no frills and jewelry. It also seems possible she is wearing a jacket, which may mean she is </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">wearing a more gown-like bodice underneath.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><br /></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2le3inTEgnztTyTvRMyo0PnRrOKESf5Xonv-fjXR9c_Pb1xdQyLpwS9hE634QR-SwBqnlM_DOAZVlnb-M7m1uzNpk2G5vTeHH0Ip6ANxoZb5yjPHq3Yh7_3WaW5teN4kCAB7AFc7B4cg/s1600/Sunnemo3_original.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1025" data-original-width="757" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2le3inTEgnztTyTvRMyo0PnRrOKESf5Xonv-fjXR9c_Pb1xdQyLpwS9hE634QR-SwBqnlM_DOAZVlnb-M7m1uzNpk2G5vTeHH0Ip6ANxoZb5yjPHq3Yh7_3WaW5teN4kCAB7AFc7B4cg/s640/Sunnemo3_original.jpg" width="472" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.geni.com/people/Christina-Olofsdotter-Spaak/6000000006897337018" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><br /></span></div>
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<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">Here are a few similar portraits.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9BQqdWN9sYWB57oSKv5cRCImga5NAYKSID_1T_rkojGniqpLp68nUhaj6ycay8UnS2rn7XqJ2q_VT8tEXex5JmQCH8w5m4BPFA4uW8gZYeM4bnLFRiL3wdbGzCDbdhopXyKLQsGzYydc/s1600/Ebba_Berg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1212" data-original-width="948" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9BQqdWN9sYWB57oSKv5cRCImga5NAYKSID_1T_rkojGniqpLp68nUhaj6ycay8UnS2rn7XqJ2q_VT8tEXex5JmQCH8w5m4BPFA4uW8gZYeM4bnLFRiL3wdbGzCDbdhopXyKLQsGzYydc/s640/Ebba_Berg.jpg" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.geni.com/people/Christina-Olofsdotter-Spaak/6000000006897337018" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzfzSB60TEXHlnv1x50KGZ15Ss_0gwUOTgz7YgdaJwHiU5plBzkD5dhciebmtTEOMOqS6GcUjGdjTuJ6RIhBR_1kw6V1aAA_As44g149H0ypZSeNAGmcmaubesCZNah196T53GlUIwNJU/s1600/PICT6154.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1263" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzfzSB60TEXHlnv1x50KGZ15Ss_0gwUOTgz7YgdaJwHiU5plBzkD5dhciebmtTEOMOqS6GcUjGdjTuJ6RIhBR_1kw6V1aAA_As44g149H0ypZSeNAGmcmaubesCZNah196T53GlUIwNJU/s640/PICT6154.jpg" width="504" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/original/Borgerlige/Sverige/Vastervik/Margareta%20Jonsdotter/index.html" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXrIA0GS5FWLY_KozCMBH96HAJaxHS5Px4gkqhJX7xNTWP_lDu6Ktw9ufQs72ZmxvU3Yu6cRqCZN57YUAdXVhIgaNuruAvzrK40EmRQMb-jEFiqHSDg60faEcrRpnopb4I8-S43E5hhOk/s1600/PICT6574.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1204" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXrIA0GS5FWLY_KozCMBH96HAJaxHS5Px4gkqhJX7xNTWP_lDu6Ktw9ufQs72ZmxvU3Yu6cRqCZN57YUAdXVhIgaNuruAvzrK40EmRQMb-jEFiqHSDg60faEcrRpnopb4I8-S43E5hhOk/s640/PICT6574.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/original/Borgerlige/Sverige/Saanga%20kyrka/Funck/index.html" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></b>
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">Even if changes in fashion occurs, they seem to have been much slower than high fashion. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">Here is Elisabet Persdotter who died in 1674 and her daughter Margareta Höijer who died in </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">1700, looking rather similar. Margareta is more fancy, though, with earrings and showing a </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">bit </span><span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">of hair.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;"><br /></span>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirqkg9pqj0qBPhVnsBAsHBVuQaKar2X-LuQi8kJM42s9eB3KpztPNjh0A0B-sJYpjJAp_MOGSpXe4rDPsQJVoKWelTSlfy2Sr7S0IFJR2OvuCaBpjDTCR2j9eDspjDXFwRJjs9ApVCCc0/s1600/PICT6264.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1063" data-original-width="1600" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirqkg9pqj0qBPhVnsBAsHBVuQaKar2X-LuQi8kJM42s9eB3KpztPNjh0A0B-sJYpjJAp_MOGSpXe4rDPsQJVoKWelTSlfy2Sr7S0IFJR2OvuCaBpjDTCR2j9eDspjDXFwRJjs9ApVCCc0/s640/PICT6264.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/original/Borgerlige/Sverige/Arboga%20Heliga%20Trefaldighets%20Kyrka/Petre/index.html" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDAWMPZPe38EMXT04suagwi_p0HRSVpr0nWigsWfhG9f0QpGzrEjyYCMHU_npa6EWSCU3Qp4u1MkD69VMMNYJFC47-1RjXBnKePUf27SiVBoo1vLfzUhPtBp08Scw98-ryLwJfZaStnco/s1600/PICT6263.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1269" data-original-width="1229" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDAWMPZPe38EMXT04suagwi_p0HRSVpr0nWigsWfhG9f0QpGzrEjyYCMHU_npa6EWSCU3Qp4u1MkD69VMMNYJFC47-1RjXBnKePUf27SiVBoo1vLfzUhPtBp08Scw98-ryLwJfZaStnco/s640/PICT6263.jpg" width="618" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/original/Borgerlige/Sverige/Arboga%20Heliga%20Trefaldighets%20Kyrka/Petre/index.html" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGUwnxQgTwxxs-p3FPhf0ha4rWY6s5ntSi38y31vzgSQbinnn6V2OYv5AYhkqjlX8S4KQcvWlHou2RgkDAYOOtxmmGa1OePnftTpU6e6SAk6OUs2tB8qJLY0EhaJRb-wXB_cjbg6KQgag/s1600/ladda+ned.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="885" data-original-width="1600" height="354" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGUwnxQgTwxxs-p3FPhf0ha4rWY6s5ntSi38y31vzgSQbinnn6V2OYv5AYhkqjlX8S4KQcvWlHou2RgkDAYOOtxmmGa1OePnftTpU6e6SAk6OUs2tB8qJLY0EhaJRb-wXB_cjbg6KQgag/s640/ladda+ned.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://digitaltmuseum.se/011023648720/portratt" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">Of course, some portraits are posthumous, which may explain the stagnant fashion. Dead </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">wife has plainer cuffs, a back ribbon around and arm, and less visible hair. I also think wife </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">#2 </span><span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">looks like a real person, while #1 looks stiffer and more impersonal, so I suspect #2 was </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">actually painted from life.</span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7BC8x4OkOXJN8i8KEqVr_iVF3DMC9aH6OubEERFwLpD6vKRCayQFufYH6ejQwzSClfbko2gCgODy5vRTHZY-b8uZ_nU0Fa8yo7Fo5W1l6X8tM3LX1GBcV1F1IUmYVS927H9GuyWwCEvE/s1600/IMG_6732.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7BC8x4OkOXJN8i8KEqVr_iVF3DMC9aH6OubEERFwLpD6vKRCayQFufYH6ejQwzSClfbko2gCgODy5vRTHZY-b8uZ_nU0Fa8yo7Fo5W1l6X8tM3LX1GBcV1F1IUmYVS927H9GuyWwCEvE/s640/IMG_6732.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/original/Borgerlige/Sverige/Arboga%20Heliga%20Trefaldighets%20Kyrka/Barckhusen/index.html" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;"><br /></span></div>
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">There are more fancy examples, but they are in a clear minority.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwJ4e7LcMhvoDBUogDO0dsoQtK7bcainAmUF9K7qTLQnjbaidDhta5pXgRait0nvlqqJ-aEp30Ehi-EazmgPSU5iA6j_jKSTTKM7qgfC-yUE-LzEnGdDRnPptmCvtplsLK6pTOd3FySjM/s1600/ladda+ned+%25281%2529.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="885" data-original-width="1600" height="354" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwJ4e7LcMhvoDBUogDO0dsoQtK7bcainAmUF9K7qTLQnjbaidDhta5pXgRait0nvlqqJ-aEp30Ehi-EazmgPSU5iA6j_jKSTTKM7qgfC-yUE-LzEnGdDRnPptmCvtplsLK6pTOd3FySjM/s640/ladda+ned+%25281%2529.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://digitaltmuseum.se/011023497750/tavla?event_desc=&query=&producer=&material=&advanced_search=1&to_year=1700&depicted_person=&title=&search_context=1&technique=&name=&pos=140&page=6&from_year=1600&place=&id=&count=1484&classification=" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvb2dYKEFIyF5QhtE2J1d0bg6NpCPszYnO2tM09jq7cglQP7-UQafkda_8xau7Z4PovRwkL-6AhvCHW04EN_CJhvTrAkBg0b0eRfwpumWgRMmc97HNu_52oeWpRWVrtsJ6MEfi1ET1L7A/s1600/ladda+ned+%25282%2529.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="885" data-original-width="1600" height="354" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvb2dYKEFIyF5QhtE2J1d0bg6NpCPszYnO2tM09jq7cglQP7-UQafkda_8xau7Z4PovRwkL-6AhvCHW04EN_CJhvTrAkBg0b0eRfwpumWgRMmc97HNu_52oeWpRWVrtsJ6MEfi1ET1L7A/s640/ladda+ned+%25282%2529.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://digitaltmuseum.se/011023594983/tavla" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">And with white aprons and mantles. I need to hunt down my source, but from what I have </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">read, you wore mantles and aprons for church. </span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoE036fVj5d1XTDjaxpsSATaB19hfmy8q5ixt3ehSmmyJgjjONgK41zo9AwK_QEfAdCj70kjW9qhlfxx6kqMf0dZsLceYWDIQKdIW-ZruZOaOAy1Sp2OasS8oiJR8KAmfN8zWFhS0xC7s/s1600/IMG_8937.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1138" data-original-width="1506" height="482" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoE036fVj5d1XTDjaxpsSATaB19hfmy8q5ixt3ehSmmyJgjjONgK41zo9AwK_QEfAdCj70kjW9qhlfxx6kqMf0dZsLceYWDIQKdIW-ZruZOaOAy1Sp2OasS8oiJR8KAmfN8zWFhS0xC7s/s640/IMG_8937.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/original/Borgerlige/Sverige/Spaanga%20kirke/Haakan%20Bartholdi%20Helsing/slides/IMG_8937.html" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrpRMWbyAv1Hwsdac2z5BgCbFMbb2u3jAkHHi5UlQnrswvvKT5hKYd89Z3Kstbmi62OKdA30lyB6pE7QiRxmX6z4z61UeEJX1UmWpieXqgFJJRBj_-88wK2WRBeCFxWDuZrdXjY6IEnJE/s1600/IMG_9148.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1195" data-original-width="796" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrpRMWbyAv1Hwsdac2z5BgCbFMbb2u3jAkHHi5UlQnrswvvKT5hKYd89Z3Kstbmi62OKdA30lyB6pE7QiRxmX6z4z61UeEJX1UmWpieXqgFJJRBj_-88wK2WRBeCFxWDuZrdXjY6IEnJE/s640/IMG_9148.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/original/Borgerlige/Sverige/Vasteraas%20Domkyrka/Lars%20Matsson%20Malare/index.html" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">Black mantle, and a somewhat surprising colourful bodice. Also those red caps with veils I </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">mentioned earlier. I'm so curious about them. Starch only, or some kind of wire construction?</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUqwBcpvMuqGVdGgW0yPCbrkBUI1sDT4rJkL4kXW4aSrcjc-0BQ8s20SQ1Fw7ktJKBh9w2OVAgfQzYfdZ-7isqGy4wPQCbLZv_LqbDdszM4Ox6CpeTl_DOk4gFB56Y-_K4OQYCJ9c619I/s1600/PICT6341.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1246" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUqwBcpvMuqGVdGgW0yPCbrkBUI1sDT4rJkL4kXW4aSrcjc-0BQ8s20SQ1Fw7ktJKBh9w2OVAgfQzYfdZ-7isqGy4wPQCbLZv_LqbDdszM4Ox6CpeTl_DOk4gFB56Y-_K4OQYCJ9c619I/s640/PICT6341.jpg" width="498" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/original/Borgerlige/Sverige/Arboga%20Heliga%20Trefaldighets%20Kyrka/Drivius/index.html" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">More mantles and red caps. It also seems red or gold belts were often worn in this region.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXiH4krpRev2LkKvKkWo0kVG-RfE8k98GeLYAxGPj8SED0nEIuxgfYIDJAi2khg-te5nbXdDxIENplNlKceBWfqVx-ZXAvPrvyhB7o2IjPEPfZwAxSd-jEaobyf_NygSuPqVxs4uWsYMQ/s1600/IMG_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXiH4krpRev2LkKvKkWo0kVG-RfE8k98GeLYAxGPj8SED0nEIuxgfYIDJAi2khg-te5nbXdDxIENplNlKceBWfqVx-ZXAvPrvyhB7o2IjPEPfZwAxSd-jEaobyf_NygSuPqVxs4uWsYMQ/s640/IMG_2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/original/Borgerlige/Sverige/Vasteraas%20Domkyrka/Emerentia%20Pedersdotter/index.html" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-UQbOLcYQRixvEH1VzsjlCTk5xw3tRQD5OarVUbYzAt1ZfxAwkLUK4hTfFsrqZFCYISe2YH2xq_afU_rXxGrJki067PtE-2a_jLI6oTyt385tuA8Sr0bIRjMabwo8_jyAaAHk5_XxbRI/s1600/IMG_1137.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1595" data-original-width="1322" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-UQbOLcYQRixvEH1VzsjlCTk5xw3tRQD5OarVUbYzAt1ZfxAwkLUK4hTfFsrqZFCYISe2YH2xq_afU_rXxGrJki067PtE-2a_jLI6oTyt385tuA8Sr0bIRjMabwo8_jyAaAHk5_XxbRI/s640/IMG_1137.jpg" width="530" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/original/Borgerlige/Sverige/Vasteraas%20Domkyrka/Simon%20Depken/index.html" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU7qGIgkiJ1OKY_fOk1a8M7RE5ZOr0hhiuJcve4gwXPAfx8TXA3mLvuvTaWkSG7OR5t1mqIsytwT5nEvqh3igIe9iwdjYaK4iWKmlz5Ib0kkqsjS3MATx4-cP7Q8vKZ2BDM-N2RMcKD10/s1600/IMG_9115.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1097" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU7qGIgkiJ1OKY_fOk1a8M7RE5ZOr0hhiuJcve4gwXPAfx8TXA3mLvuvTaWkSG7OR5t1mqIsytwT5nEvqh3igIe9iwdjYaK4iWKmlz5Ib0kkqsjS3MATx4-cP7Q8vKZ2BDM-N2RMcKD10/s640/IMG_9115.jpg" width="438" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/original/Borgerlige/Sverige/Vasteraas%20Domkyrka/Gerdt%20Hansson%20Koerner/index.html" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv_JfjV7JMLnTKRMwmA81gjv0Nvzg8TStprK-lxdsY_9JpfdbfrCQuLVsIC9LAgxe7PAqD3uX3nQNOxLsx_VDqE20n7lWGXeSfp3wu16xoKlEkPHJ1i-hvWNeOC_ket0Od5kHwNcYUxLM/s1600/IMG_9239.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv_JfjV7JMLnTKRMwmA81gjv0Nvzg8TStprK-lxdsY_9JpfdbfrCQuLVsIC9LAgxe7PAqD3uX3nQNOxLsx_VDqE20n7lWGXeSfp3wu16xoKlEkPHJ1i-hvWNeOC_ket0Od5kHwNcYUxLM/s640/IMG_9239.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/original/Borgerlige/Sverige/Aspoe%20kyrka/Daniel%20Salomonis%20Fromme/index.html" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie-euGzh_T6T03eqcwNyqBc8Pg4ESKPPcOmHyLqzp7ptxd1J9fraUBVpvm7VCq43zxiHVaBJYka74xnM51PGMOzW-8Wf_5AVi89VMGkkxHOSPMEVYUnlUua7g2jDAWk_eKfdMC7T_Sd5I/s1600/IMG_9330.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1304" data-original-width="1600" height="520" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie-euGzh_T6T03eqcwNyqBc8Pg4ESKPPcOmHyLqzp7ptxd1J9fraUBVpvm7VCq43zxiHVaBJYka74xnM51PGMOzW-8Wf_5AVi89VMGkkxHOSPMEVYUnlUua7g2jDAWk_eKfdMC7T_Sd5I/s640/IMG_9330.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/original/Borgerlige/Sverige/Strangnas%20kirke/Laurentius%20Paulinus%20Gothus/index.html" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">With the black cap.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn1k145WxFdYFIL60v-h7xgU7FOoutWgSwDLI6GYzdTvkD-4gR0byGxd8-ozSgnfqBDxmQIZRLNkD7LCQtm8_uKVnKfSz3DvfwgPPrvReOZ9j4Gd0botJTbE6dkxpo9QnCPp2XmxZNkMc/s1600/IMG_2618.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="912" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn1k145WxFdYFIL60v-h7xgU7FOoutWgSwDLI6GYzdTvkD-4gR0byGxd8-ozSgnfqBDxmQIZRLNkD7LCQtm8_uKVnKfSz3DvfwgPPrvReOZ9j4Gd0botJTbE6dkxpo9QnCPp2XmxZNkMc/s640/IMG_2618.jpg" width="364" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/original/Borgerlige/Sverige/Torslunda%20kirke/Dorothea%20Hansdatter/index.html" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCH6nskrp4HydtS0vmPRDYGNsQr9TqPsFrrYlf9iDJTSolT0kQwygu3APLY825SQaZAvDrH1vQGPpwDm_igNlCLAYkVFoOmQwM89NMSUHDD4hb9XqhG2u_V62Ot8pTj73Dim3ynLXSJxQ/s1600/IMG_2648.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1598" data-original-width="1600" height="638" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCH6nskrp4HydtS0vmPRDYGNsQr9TqPsFrrYlf9iDJTSolT0kQwygu3APLY825SQaZAvDrH1vQGPpwDm_igNlCLAYkVFoOmQwM89NMSUHDD4hb9XqhG2u_V62Ot8pTj73Dim3ynLXSJxQ/s640/IMG_2648.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/original/Borgerlige/Sverige/Kalmar%20domkirke/Arendt/index.html" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">A little unusual; no white cap under the black one, and another kind of collar, (or should I </span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">say partlet?)</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA73P4SJVW37WjPqGswFtNh9y1_h_7HXuZRiCBUqfEDmW50uRPAtnFTb3L-kpb1_osFBN8nWJrn0h15ZJF2MfU7636uicE6eiW89erkfg8FsIi4MyLLCy0UwPddDSOgkYurOMG485UDSY/s1600/PC021731.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA73P4SJVW37WjPqGswFtNh9y1_h_7HXuZRiCBUqfEDmW50uRPAtnFTb3L-kpb1_osFBN8nWJrn0h15ZJF2MfU7636uicE6eiW89erkfg8FsIi4MyLLCy0UwPddDSOgkYurOMG485UDSY/s640/PC021731.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/original/Borgerlige/Sverige/Vasteraas%20Domkyrka/Georg%20Hoffmann/index.html" target="_blank">Add caption</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">Here’s the oldest picture I found, from the 1580s, but the main elements are all there: </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><br /></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLdrlabMRLK0lywFdbb8f8YIinQ7oqWxwyint-ivpLA-LRSE40RraFtp0UdImxPC7Fjp3BY8tfwrWxonWu67pHKl496xbXyJ_MnpYkF6Yolnu5NaKSn6pJM1vaHX1TcAnUkXtSJi7BVLo/s1600/PICT6529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="859" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLdrlabMRLK0lywFdbb8f8YIinQ7oqWxwyint-ivpLA-LRSE40RraFtp0UdImxPC7Fjp3BY8tfwrWxonWu67pHKl496xbXyJ_MnpYkF6Yolnu5NaKSn6pJM1vaHX1TcAnUkXtSJi7BVLo/s640/PICT6529.jpg" width="342" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/original/Borgerlige/Sverige/Saanga%20kyrka/Tynesson/index.html" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">There must be some kind of padding, or a very high bun because on many portraits the </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">black cap is placed very high.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKj-5haaokco1YfAZXrf0FZOBG3PXSkF7kiH9UA-PKRYhpQInCR43k-AoVaqgGmwn84SCbH1JSum0V-2GexJNCWqe1DCJrQjVU09uePCSzVFsqM1SvexhZ4_Hfgp-5C9o_lsl7Tgw3yek/s1600/IMG_9181.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1385" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKj-5haaokco1YfAZXrf0FZOBG3PXSkF7kiH9UA-PKRYhpQInCR43k-AoVaqgGmwn84SCbH1JSum0V-2GexJNCWqe1DCJrQjVU09uePCSzVFsqM1SvexhZ4_Hfgp-5C9o_lsl7Tgw3yek/s640/IMG_9181.jpg" width="554" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/original/Borgerlige/Sverige/Vasteraas%20Domkyrka/Petrus%20Olai%20Dalekarlus/index.html" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiKuTEzZk3SKPJHxeRboUMyBtZLmX5fCI5G_wXP0xL1nVXvA1gRRMU9AaMp_D93bz0O9voHwmzA6-h-SjmGL9039I2WYmUPPZSYv0OM8HNbHBCiuIaTQ13jgplG3Z_G_yB5Uiyi8TULBE/s1600/ladda+ned+%25283%2529.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="885" data-original-width="1600" height="354" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiKuTEzZk3SKPJHxeRboUMyBtZLmX5fCI5G_wXP0xL1nVXvA1gRRMU9AaMp_D93bz0O9voHwmzA6-h-SjmGL9039I2WYmUPPZSYv0OM8HNbHBCiuIaTQ13jgplG3Z_G_yB5Uiyi8TULBE/s640/ladda+ned+%25283%2529.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://digitaltmuseum.se/011023346340/tavla" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">If anyone wonders about the difference between Swedish and Danish customs, here are the </span><br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">main ones I’ve noticed. Black caps which have extremely deep curves. Black caps which </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">are flat and wide. And white aprons with a distinct V-shape at the front. At first, I thought </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">it was because they were worn under a bodice with a dipped front, but on some close-ups, </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">you can clearly see that they are worn as a top layer. I assume the shape comes from </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">pinning the apron- they don’t seem to be tied in the back, and very possible also starched.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><br /></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5qtz3jp8HKD5E7v6sMDVeUXpem0oppHVuaGDZkbuUY6nqOnUu_T4V1w7kZfuIWDKC5Ae1I-I03f4jE_TNZV_avrGW5HGbn1B_4By8gHeMyHZAb5bQ_2cYRKct_Xftsq1MsHrOKiystdI/s1600/PICT0478.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5qtz3jp8HKD5E7v6sMDVeUXpem0oppHVuaGDZkbuUY6nqOnUu_T4V1w7kZfuIWDKC5Ae1I-I03f4jE_TNZV_avrGW5HGbn1B_4By8gHeMyHZAb5bQ_2cYRKct_Xftsq1MsHrOKiystdI/s640/PICT0478.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/original/" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><br /></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAW6dlnx8k20SVenG3OjVaG2wY0jG7vfmf1WKwDqx4F_HxkFtDgYfzYa2TrRh7T-iJlAxFuq_rYHebYYjaGTr3zLOmIl-pjU1zAUhoiHGDKoOsvrmTkYPr42dZy34VZLc9awX3LD6ZvfM/s1600/PICT0430.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="960" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAW6dlnx8k20SVenG3OjVaG2wY0jG7vfmf1WKwDqx4F_HxkFtDgYfzYa2TrRh7T-iJlAxFuq_rYHebYYjaGTr3zLOmIl-pjU1zAUhoiHGDKoOsvrmTkYPr42dZy34VZLc9awX3LD6ZvfM/s640/PICT0430.jpg" width="512" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/original/Borgerlige/Halsted%20kirke/Johan%20Joergensen%20Rasch/index.html" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
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<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: #f5f2eb; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">My future plan is to make a gown with a boned bodice, ca 1660 in black wool which I could dress up a little, and then the more jacket-like bodice my ancestress wears. I also want to make the white and black caps, though I don’t know if I can manage that strange high crown. I also need to work on my disapproving frown!</span></div>
Isishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09380497568603304818noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580595753456307919.post-24704269202070568312019-10-01T09:40:00.002+02:002019-10-01T09:42:47.404+02:00The finished closed-front robe à la française<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">I only now realised I never posted pictures of my closed-front robe à la française. Well, it was finished (sort-of) </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">and </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre;">worn at the ball in June, and I had an absolute blast:</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre;">Now I need to change a few things. The bows on the sleeves are set on the wrong place and need to be moved </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre;">(that </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre;">is what happens when you attach them five minutes before you really should leave…). And the decorations on the </span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">robe needs to be sewn down along the edges and not only with basting stitches in the middle. I also plan to make </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">a </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre;">pair of winged cuffs and an embroidered stomacher so I can use the gown for an earlier date than the 1760s.</span></div>
Isishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09380497568603304818noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580595753456307919.post-89360957836818976672018-12-01T16:50:00.000+01:002018-12-01T16:53:21.616+01:001913 and 1762<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">It’s been a bit of the quiet sewing wise this autumn. I’m hand sewing an early 16th century </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">shift; it’s sewn together, had the seams felled and it’s hemmed. I’m currently gathering the </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">neck and cuffs.</span></div>
<b id="docs-internal-guid-4a44ca92-7fff-280c-c5c1-7a56dc2fea85" style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></b>
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<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">I did a fast and fun project, completely from stash, a couple of weeks ago; a 1913 evening </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">trousers with a simple kimono top. The top was simply drafted on the fabric; an off-white </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">dupion which once was the skirt of my first wedding gown. The trousers were made after </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">these:</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv0_A4Fk1YcPNlUaOYubw1X_6pyAxzx4IJFX9YoPnLz3bou4dM4R7S8ki5F_Q1csZXDIGX2aNxtdJD6wl3kLyejkmL3j3pkXLUNVXfGKLSZyGfwRF7oNYytpMovaxz2tL50Bn7CqITMWk/s1600/ma-147404-WEB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv0_A4Fk1YcPNlUaOYubw1X_6pyAxzx4IJFX9YoPnLz3bou4dM4R7S8ki5F_Q1csZXDIGX2aNxtdJD6wl3kLyejkmL3j3pkXLUNVXfGKLSZyGfwRF7oNYytpMovaxz2tL50Bn7CqITMWk/s1600/ma-147404-WEB.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lacma/" target="_blank">https://collections.lacma.org/node/230873</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><br /></span></div>
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<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">LACMA helpfully have the pattern online <a href="http://www.lacma.org/sites/default/files/FF_patterns_54.97.17axxxb.pdf" target="_blank">in this PDF</a>. As I was unsure of the original wearer' </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">size but deduced she was probably more slender than I am, I simply used the width of the </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">fabric </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">for the widest part and then used that measurement as the first leg on scaling the </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">pattern proportionally. It worked really well, apart from the fact that the original wearer must </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">have been a tall woman. I’m above average, and the trousers were a tad too long. But I </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">loved the way it draped; the fabric is a cotton/rayon blend which I bought on sale almost </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">twenty years back. It was perfect for this project.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXm87xlwJTcRQjMgkTmbC_O_fgYhWybDPPads3E5ShIxVJhvd0hSG8Pp5pe-iG__H4u-EPhX7hN3BTUNUDENYxEAUiYzHWgxeUfnWWHtaYs1chjwfH5OmiQQRvS1W0TQxpvfoKX45RPNg/s1600/44710521_10155997546773613_7183448869756207104_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXm87xlwJTcRQjMgkTmbC_O_fgYhWybDPPads3E5ShIxVJhvd0hSG8Pp5pe-iG__H4u-EPhX7hN3BTUNUDENYxEAUiYzHWgxeUfnWWHtaYs1chjwfH5OmiQQRvS1W0TQxpvfoKX45RPNg/s1600/44710521_10155997546773613_7183448869756207104_n.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><br /></span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></b>
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">Apart from a need to shorten it, I want to find tassels with a bit more oomph! I also need to </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">change the button eventually as these are actually meant to go on my Victorian bathing suit </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">when I get around to make button holes at the sides of it. But I love this outfit and want to </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">wear it more. I was also very pleased with how my hair and makeup turned out. And I’ve </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">found a picked apart lace dress among my grandmother’s things, so I plan to reuse that for </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">something similar to this:</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzfqzkDzeBlXwDoIUAcBa5z6L5naAOSPEHEtifEuHJ_iKRPWJmogqY8UKhitH3okCALgOFOlm5HCw2EPDL_2kaTXghxqa5FqMKgANYHFWAmH2ycgx7gvnbAq-E4q_f5PeHHwxncgQ5V5w/s1600/restricted.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzfqzkDzeBlXwDoIUAcBa5z6L5naAOSPEHEtifEuHJ_iKRPWJmogqY8UKhitH3okCALgOFOlm5HCw2EPDL_2kaTXghxqa5FqMKgANYHFWAmH2ycgx7gvnbAq-E4q_f5PeHHwxncgQ5V5w/s1600/restricted.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://metropolitan%20museum/" target="_blank">https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/155885?rpp=20&pg=12&ft=dress&when=A.D.+1900-present&pos=228</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><br /></span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></b>
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">But my next project will have to be a robe de francaise. On June 8 there will be a grande ball </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">at Svartsjö Castle, close to Stockholm. <a href="https://www.facebook.com/events/269072933809396/" target="_blank">Here is the event on Facebook</a>. And here is Menuett </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">Akademien’s invitation:</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>Chers Monsieurs-Dames de la noblesse Suédoise.</i></span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><i><br /></i></b>
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<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>Dear Ladies and Gentlemen.</i></span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><i><br /></i></b>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>The year is 1762, an evening in the promising month of June.</i></span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><i><br /></i></b>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>His Majesty King Adolph Fredrik would like to invite You all to a pastoral evening, une vrai fête champêtre, a grand yet intimate event for those members of the Swedish nobility still loyal to the Monarchy, at His Majestys charmingly beautiful Hunting Lodge Svartsjö Palace. Svartsjö is located at Färingsö, just outside the town of Stockholm.</i></span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><i><br /></i></b>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>This gracious fête takes place on Saturday the 8th of June, starting at 6 o’clock in the evening. </i></span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><i><br /></i></b>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>The event is arranged to provide amusement for Her Majesty the Queen of Sweden, Lovisa Ulrica. </i></span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><i><br /></i></b>
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<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>As a mark of love and of gratitude for her successful personal contribution to the peace negotiations with her brother His Majesty the King of Preussia, thus securing advantageous conditions for Sweden following the Pommeranian war.</i></span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><i><br /></i></b>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i> • A true Minerva of the North •</i></span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><i><br /></i></b>
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<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>The evening will provide You with wonderful entertainment, such as excellent music, song and dance (of an International quality ), a rich Souper with delicious foods as well as sweet treats, etc. And possibly some other sort of surprise peut-être..? The whole evening is meant as a surprise for Her Majesty the Queen herself.</i></span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><i><br /></i></b>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>All this for the price of only 1550 SEK per person. You do not want to miss out on this fête champêtre. His Majesty does not want you to miss out either…</i></span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><i><br /></i></b>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>* Please note that only payment equals a ticket. Kindly make the payments to the bank account: 122-4989</i></span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><i><br /></i></b>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>If you reside abroad, kindly use the following details: IBAN : SE06 6000 0000 0006 8949 7288</i></span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><i><br /></i></b>
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<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>* When payment has been duly made, kindly send an email containing your full name (and stating if you have any special food preferences) or allergies, to the following address: </i></span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><i><br /></i></b>
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<a href="mailto:menuettakademien@gmail.com" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #1155cc; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>menuettakademien@gmail.com</i></span></a></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><i><br /></i></b>
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<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>* Included in the price is some refreshments, such as a few glasses of wine or beer, and a drink upon arrival. There will also be a bar available, if You wish to purchase any further drinks. (!We do only accept swish at the bar!)</i></span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><i><br /></i></b>
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<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>* Please do note that You will need to bring your own appropriate cutlery, glass and dinner plate. This in order to preserve the historical feeling of the event.</i></span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><i><br /></i></b>
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<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>As Svartsjö Palace is located some distance away, there will be a bus leaving from Stockholm Central Station (at a small extra cost), providing easy transportation both there and back.</i></span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><i><br /></i></b>
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<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>The Dancing will be organized in three different levels of dancing:1: advanced, 2: intermediate, 3: beginner. Kindly choose your own level. (Dancing is naturally voluntary)</i></span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><i><br /></i></b>
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<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>There will, of course, be a prize awarded to the best dressed guest at the ball. (Dresscode: 1755-1765)</i></span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><i><br /></i></b>
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<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>His Majesty expressly wishes this Fête extraordinaire to be a complete surprise to Her Majesty up until her arrival (just like at the inauguration of the Pavillon Chinois at Drottningholm Palace some years ago), so please do not reveal the secret beforehand as that would spoil a part of the amusement.</i></span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><i><br /></i></b>
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<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>A warm Welcome to You all!</i></span></div>
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<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">I’m very excited over this! Menuett Akademien is known for their spectacular balls; last year </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">it was the 1680 ball I made a mantua for. Now I plan a closed-front robe de francaise. It may </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">not have been the height of fashion in 1762, but you do see them all through the 1760’s, and I want to sew something I haven’t done before.</span></div>
Isishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09380497568603304818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580595753456307919.post-34336111617627211012018-11-17T13:37:00.000+01:002018-11-17T13:41:07.521+01:00A couple of closed Robe à la FrançaiseNot the most popular version of the <span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: , "blinkmacsystemfont" , "segoe ui" , "roboto oxygen-sans" , "ubuntu" , "cantarell" , "“fira sans”" , "“droid sans”" , "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "ヒラギノ角ゴ pro w3" , "hiragino kaku gothic pro" , , "meiryo" , "ms pゴシック" , "arial" , sans-serif , "apple color emoji" , "segoe ui emoji" , "segoe ui symbol"; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: -0.4px;">Robe à la Française, but the version with a closed skirt crops up from time to time, roughly between the 1730s-60s.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: , "blinkmacsystemfont" , "segoe ui" , "roboto oxygen-sans" , "ubuntu" , "cantarell" , "“fira sans”" , "“droid sans”" , "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "ヒラギノ角ゴ pro w3" , "hiragino kaku gothic pro" , , "meiryo" , "ms pゴシック" , "arial" , sans-serif , "apple color emoji" , "segoe ui emoji" , "segoe ui symbol"; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><br /></span>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje8EgtmPUOO0tGzN5mG-GxbCu4yCg8UclzfqsTkODm4C0AMoqGtTTRYQNat6kGdZ_FSQZvo8q3HvrAC2G3kBjsjeGnLCTtDxl2uMBjZN645JK_s_lXMQen7W51k1jBpbDk3IK0N1ykWI4/s1600/2006.56.2_20061121_01_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje8EgtmPUOO0tGzN5mG-GxbCu4yCg8UclzfqsTkODm4C0AMoqGtTTRYQNat6kGdZ_FSQZvo8q3HvrAC2G3kBjsjeGnLCTtDxl2uMBjZN645JK_s_lXMQen7W51k1jBpbDk3IK0N1ykWI4/s640/2006.56.2_20061121_01_web.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/view/objects/asitem/759/14/dynasty-desc?t:state:flow=30ebe2a1-4a90-4a03-8bbb-fc829c4cd5f1" target="_blank">Ca. 1735, The Museum at FIT</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: , "blinkmacsystemfont" , "segoe ui" , "roboto oxygen-sans" , "ubuntu" , "cantarell" , "“fira sans”" , "“droid sans”" , "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "ヒラギノ角ゴ pro w3" , "hiragino kaku gothic pro" , , "meiryo" , "ms pゴシック" , "arial" , sans-serif , "apple color emoji" , "segoe ui emoji" , "segoe ui symbol"; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: , "blinkmacsystemfont" , "segoe ui" , "roboto oxygen-sans" , "ubuntu" , "cantarell" , "“fira sans”" , "“droid sans”" , "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "ヒラギノ角ゴ pro w3" , "hiragino kaku gothic pro" , , "meiryo" , "ms pゴシック" , "arial" , sans-serif , "apple color emoji" , "segoe ui emoji" , "segoe ui symbol"; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><br /></span>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLe-1JUYt2H0iAr9AvmEmSuDUeUpuS5VT0NkuDubAFYzfpLcePWB1KB1hBH4Mcf_EjwEYJeWEpKLO_qH7mJMVLjONfhDN7gfn1hxwnSGx-J2LZ6ebdp4WuLnKx_SUCXTAc4SWwhBCBZKU/s1600/abitoeuropeo2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLe-1JUYt2H0iAr9AvmEmSuDUeUpuS5VT0NkuDubAFYzfpLcePWB1KB1hBH4Mcf_EjwEYJeWEpKLO_qH7mJMVLjONfhDN7gfn1hxwnSGx-J2LZ6ebdp4WuLnKx_SUCXTAc4SWwhBCBZKU/s640/abitoeuropeo2.jpg" width="484" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://museostibbert.it/en/page/costumes" target="_blank">1740s, The Stibbert Museum</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: , "blinkmacsystemfont" , "segoe ui" , "roboto oxygen-sans" , "ubuntu" , "cantarell" , "“fira sans”" , "“droid sans”" , "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "ヒラギノ角ゴ pro w3" , "hiragino kaku gothic pro" , , "meiryo" , "ms pゴシック" , "arial" , sans-serif , "apple color emoji" , "segoe ui emoji" , "segoe ui symbol"; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: , "blinkmacsystemfont" , "segoe ui" , "roboto oxygen-sans" , "ubuntu" , "cantarell" , "“fira sans”" , "“droid sans”" , "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "ヒラギノ角ゴ pro w3" , "hiragino kaku gothic pro" , , "meiryo" , "ms pゴシック" , "arial" , sans-serif , "apple color emoji" , "segoe ui emoji" , "segoe ui symbol"; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><br /></span>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgAtFt8Hvt5haMMAOavkGEtyRKPu_ecSV6ORvLUYRfxAoD9Val8wFvDPdv48aotqfyPbIzx4Mu6ilUvzi1R0plA-6uDDgFIr37i-UEzTsdh7C-5htRB-hxoozw6UpT9S18vziFda3iUMQ/s1600/search.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgAtFt8Hvt5haMMAOavkGEtyRKPu_ecSV6ORvLUYRfxAoD9Val8wFvDPdv48aotqfyPbIzx4Mu6ilUvzi1R0plA-6uDDgFIr37i-UEzTsdh7C-5htRB-hxoozw6UpT9S18vziFda3iUMQ/s640/search.jpg" width="534" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.nms.ac.uk/explore-our-collections/collection-search-results/?item_id=438566" target="_blank">Ca. 1740, National Museum Of Scotland</a></td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: , "blinkmacsystemfont" , "segoe ui" , "roboto oxygen-sans" , "ubuntu" , "cantarell" , "“fira sans”" , "“droid sans”" , "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "ヒラギノ角ゴ pro w3" , "hiragino kaku gothic pro" , , "meiryo" , "ms pゴシック" , "arial" , sans-serif , "apple color emoji" , "segoe ui emoji" , "segoe ui symbol"; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/130802327@N03/22129890853/in/album-72157651946152062/" target="_blank"><b>Ca. 1745, Kent State Museum</b></a></span></div>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: , "blinkmacsystemfont" , "segoe ui" , "roboto oxygen-sans" , "ubuntu" , "cantarell" , "“fira sans”" , "“droid sans”" , "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "ヒラギノ角ゴ pro w3" , "hiragino kaku gothic pro" , , "meiryo" , "ms pゴシック" , "arial" , sans-serif , "apple color emoji" , "segoe ui emoji" , "segoe ui symbol"; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><br /></span>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJHT9khCmfVPLIoSGMnheYEezMFZTGITI2rCGDtsd842jt2NhAc4zq7s2hnOSoOZlTi1orqXKwRyc1TFqxTWdj8I9PQZQD0nbUiWBKqLVPbcrrwt5UdLEJVD8DgViv946ABaULyYjIN1Q/s1600/Mr_and_Mrs_Andrews_1748-49.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJHT9khCmfVPLIoSGMnheYEezMFZTGITI2rCGDtsd842jt2NhAc4zq7s2hnOSoOZlTi1orqXKwRyc1TFqxTWdj8I9PQZQD0nbUiWBKqLVPbcrrwt5UdLEJVD8DgViv946ABaULyYjIN1Q/s640/Mr_and_Mrs_Andrews_1748-49.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Mr_and_Mrs_Andrews_1748-49.jpg" target="_blank">Mr. and Mrs. Andrews by Thomas Gainsborough, 1748-49</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: , "blinkmacsystemfont" , "segoe ui" , "roboto oxygen-sans" , "ubuntu" , "cantarell" , "“fira sans”" , "“droid sans”" , "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "ヒラギノ角ゴ pro w3" , "hiragino kaku gothic pro" , , "meiryo" , "ms pゴシック" , "arial" , sans-serif , "apple color emoji" , "segoe ui emoji" , "segoe ui symbol"; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><br /></span>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBUTxK0qDVcGy_X49ISEQz2X4yoFP_o4w0BIKtLAOz3f5Ds_A_shOpTH1mZSUcYsEsS8X2swMmc9-GiHAoxMxYXJ3kUmb3Z5H9mfJZhO8n1eW62PDDa2x-1jUhxZHRVGQahpD83gbUYDY/s1600/T12609_10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBUTxK0qDVcGy_X49ISEQz2X4yoFP_o4w0BIKtLAOz3f5Ds_A_shOpTH1mZSUcYsEsS8X2swMmc9-GiHAoxMxYXJ3kUmb3Z5H9mfJZhO8n1eW62PDDa2x-1jUhxZHRVGQahpD83gbUYDY/s640/T12609_10.jpg" width="498" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/gainsborough-mr-and-mrs-carter-t12609" target="_blank">Mr. and Mrs. Carter by Thomas Gainsborough, 1748-49</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWZzl4ClJ9i8VkS5MAmNnX3J5cJumOUArOkCEtbcMWypu_GanTUN3aogNTDfjDi-AK1mEXvbWTSQ7YW_KpvuK4_EbcLOdbvvPXKrsEKmlOwTYgr34AsufXMW8gHeOaseeDDApf7MfYLWA/s1600/main-image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWZzl4ClJ9i8VkS5MAmNnX3J5cJumOUArOkCEtbcMWypu_GanTUN3aogNTDfjDi-AK1mEXvbWTSQ7YW_KpvuK4_EbcLOdbvvPXKrsEKmlOwTYgr34AsufXMW8gHeOaseeDDApf7MfYLWA/s640/main-image.jpg" width="414" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/80005641?rpp=20&pg=7&ft=*&deptids=8&when=A.D.+1600-1800&pos=128" target="_blank">Ca. 1750, Metropolitan</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsDMB9Wp3hWOou19X3DLfrMP3QCN3oklh3j8zcOQeJ3e0cUUvHb_fDH-SsgDbsvOKUKrhXePU_dYXZQUMd9ZtS-zBB-WboMImx5N54Ue3H2EtOrL4WaEtjaivM_PL4Y0czPG47-fd3RmM/s1600/nypl.digitalcollections.510d47e4-7e7b-a3d9-e040-e00a18064a99.001.g.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsDMB9Wp3hWOou19X3DLfrMP3QCN3oklh3j8zcOQeJ3e0cUUvHb_fDH-SsgDbsvOKUKrhXePU_dYXZQUMd9ZtS-zBB-WboMImx5N54Ue3H2EtOrL4WaEtjaivM_PL4Y0czPG47-fd3RmM/s640/nypl.digitalcollections.510d47e4-7e7b-a3d9-e040-e00a18064a99.001.g.jpg" width="496" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://digitalcollections.nypl.org/items/510d47e4-7e7b-a3d9-e040-e00a18064a99#/?zoom=true" target="_blank">Full dress of a lady of Nuremburg in 1755</a></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuSVPgFe-8PNC5smN2Qg7s3YF-JVOFa4GPRizifR19A8eMax5ioSOB9vDyXnahm6zIPwavP5n5OFGjVt46mfGAc7SHyYQ1M8coipfMrk74eKWaP9eWjNLg9huessOJS98ofZZR0ChVDys/s1600/3d7cf258f7c59a3c02d51e1e9639124c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuSVPgFe-8PNC5smN2Qg7s3YF-JVOFa4GPRizifR19A8eMax5ioSOB9vDyXnahm6zIPwavP5n5OFGjVt46mfGAc7SHyYQ1M8coipfMrk74eKWaP9eWjNLg9huessOJS98ofZZR0ChVDys/s640/3d7cf258f7c59a3c02d51e1e9639124c.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.restaurovani-textilii.cz/en/gallery/" target="_blank">Burial gown of Maria Anna Josepha von Dietrichstein, 1764</a></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6M7ok1nbvV9iVlEZImcQETNR1LX_wJx594kA-YkRCSIACO5iYhu6o7KI2Az8T1qWkciyPAC6BwxfNOwy2ymcWVNW7uIXzu8ThRp6uMoM7VfDQeLV80W5_pZ1YFfol9eIier8ayDuw5is/s1600/P84.8.1_20060516_01_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6M7ok1nbvV9iVlEZImcQETNR1LX_wJx594kA-YkRCSIACO5iYhu6o7KI2Az8T1qWkciyPAC6BwxfNOwy2ymcWVNW7uIXzu8ThRp6uMoM7VfDQeLV80W5_pZ1YFfol9eIier8ayDuw5is/s640/P84.8.1_20060516_01_web.jpg" width="416" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/view/objects/asitem/759/13/dynasty-desc?t:state:flow=30ebe2a1-4a90-4a03-8bbb-fc829c4cd5f1" target="_blank">Ca. 1760, The Museum at FIT</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: , "blinkmacsystemfont" , "segoe ui" , "roboto oxygen-sans" , "ubuntu" , "cantarell" , "“fira sans”" , "“droid sans”" , "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "ヒラギノ角ゴ pro w3" , "hiragino kaku gothic pro" , , "meiryo" , "ms pゴシック" , "arial" , sans-serif , "apple color emoji" , "segoe ui emoji" , "segoe ui symbol"; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><br /></span>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeNy15kcBLxVdDnSNxabYtXmDBYZY5bFcRSA_KqTuH0CyifA128BlqT_9Mv6SVaRkmjEJMBPzLF25uav0_IF8L3rhmuOSaIgHiv5V_9cDsUOa4awPnZxNWZP_3AzDgdf3jc9w0bqhPqfg/s1600/ma-11477.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeNy15kcBLxVdDnSNxabYtXmDBYZY5bFcRSA_KqTuH0CyifA128BlqT_9Mv6SVaRkmjEJMBPzLF25uav0_IF8L3rhmuOSaIgHiv5V_9cDsUOa4awPnZxNWZP_3AzDgdf3jc9w0bqhPqfg/s640/ma-11477.jpg" width="434" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://collections.lacma.org/node/231546" target="_blank">Dated 1760's-70s, LACMA</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: , "blinkmacsystemfont" , "segoe ui" , "roboto oxygen-sans" , "ubuntu" , "cantarell" , "“fira sans”" , "“droid sans”" , "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "ヒラギノ角ゴ pro w3" , "hiragino kaku gothic pro" , , "meiryo" , "ms pゴシック" , "arial" , sans-serif , "apple color emoji" , "segoe ui emoji" , "segoe ui symbol"; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><br /></span></div>
Isishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09380497568603304818noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580595753456307919.post-50833857640011872072018-09-03T15:01:00.000+02:002018-09-03T15:02:38.495+02:0017th century frog purse- done!<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">I finished something during my vacation! And a UFO of long standing too- namely the 17th century frog </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">purse. I fell in <a href="http://www.ashmoleanprints.com/image/221387/anonymous-english-frog-purse" target="_blank">this frog purse</a> five(!) years ago and decided I wanted to make one. Apparently, frog </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">purses were quite a thing in 17th century England, and there are several extant ones. You can see a </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">post about them <a href="http://isiswardrobe.blogspot.com/2013/09/17th-century-frog-purses.html" target="_blank">here</a>.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">I almost finished mine, but then I </span>realised<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;"> the back legs were too heavy and long, and I balked at re-making them. Until now. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip6AvQTgMjJ4oEZFN1EuV1negnWjyKncxcY73CBGiEFJF4P4W6HtXInNppyc1EBW6hT92FRRVAAVkXTqVUskFWIwhIlyUsjTyrOwp53eVz1145jPmmxMjlZKfK9kPrGZHju0lpNWeWRz8/s1600/40653129_10155890544373613_6435682603822481408_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip6AvQTgMjJ4oEZFN1EuV1negnWjyKncxcY73CBGiEFJF4P4W6HtXInNppyc1EBW6hT92FRRVAAVkXTqVUskFWIwhIlyUsjTyrOwp53eVz1145jPmmxMjlZKfK9kPrGZHju0lpNWeWRz8/s640/40653129_10155890544373613_6435682603822481408_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7M6DZYaQyijFDRoflAwKwvsmbmHelLlM0mOfOpYmoO6QAzPvGUDwrgVPqUvPl1EqhyphenhyphenCh_laGRHqgJd6HtHG0R5u9wB8QytcR2nmjmZ_QzLKq0murevYRIxWMXqudd23O24dtLZS0845c/s1600/40644305_10155890544343613_113022541135609856_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7M6DZYaQyijFDRoflAwKwvsmbmHelLlM0mOfOpYmoO6QAzPvGUDwrgVPqUvPl1EqhyphenhyphenCh_laGRHqgJd6HtHG0R5u9wB8QytcR2nmjmZ_QzLKq0murevYRIxWMXqudd23O24dtLZS0845c/s640/40644305_10155890544343613_113022541135609856_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlrZ838V3G5fXly0tPbz_AFraDq5EYMdr_yCys362LyB5q0o-SxURulrVHUQAsMJO-xKXmIFhsQ-paDw8hqJULstS0g7IAywV5q8Nwn1nu3aEv7OGZWutEN9P9UACCOEy07RkbwvmmIDM/s1600/40672661_10155890544273613_953641567602606080_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlrZ838V3G5fXly0tPbz_AFraDq5EYMdr_yCys362LyB5q0o-SxURulrVHUQAsMJO-xKXmIFhsQ-paDw8hqJULstS0g7IAywV5q8Nwn1nu3aEv7OGZWutEN9P9UACCOEy07RkbwvmmIDM/s640/40672661_10155890544273613_953641567602606080_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">It’s not a perfect replica of the original one. For one I had very few construction details, so I had to </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">guess a lot. What I did know was the measurements of the body, and how the legs and arms were</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">made, as well as the stitched on the body and the eyes. I tried to follow that as close as possible.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">The body was made in green silk taffeta covered with needlepoint stitches made from gilt silk twist. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">It’s padded with felt.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGj_6lHYQ6Zi4JHnAeAu68sPJ27xSSG__-mzMOa16e0rI3iVnkoVC2gzLt-KSVGB-kxFfUmHSPzof7BB3_Ev9QG9W6gRsRFUdDkD-uBNM44IKOUIl3U01_obMes_g0dx7LCzMfdDF0WXk/s1600/40609407_10155890544448613_1364949441416527872_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="640" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGj_6lHYQ6Zi4JHnAeAu68sPJ27xSSG__-mzMOa16e0rI3iVnkoVC2gzLt-KSVGB-kxFfUmHSPzof7BB3_Ev9QG9W6gRsRFUdDkD-uBNM44IKOUIl3U01_obMes_g0dx7LCzMfdDF0WXk/s640/40609407_10155890544448613_1364949441416527872_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">The arms and legs are made of wire and very thin millinery wire, which was first covered with linen </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">thread to bulk them up, and then they were covered with gold thread.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikgyPQaBIj3YqaB30_2Od9wOZutov8355qEJ2A9VHixNVL34PLMM9oLSMzoTELnwscEdNx8i-1nNolt9TQdR604wQ-fxdbFyTw5-PYiz9rvV4dS2oOppQYnyrbW_mmqCpY8snF6919t-E/s1600/40684212_10155890544568613_5228766363803189248_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="640" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikgyPQaBIj3YqaB30_2Od9wOZutov8355qEJ2A9VHixNVL34PLMM9oLSMzoTELnwscEdNx8i-1nNolt9TQdR604wQ-fxdbFyTw5-PYiz9rvV4dS2oOppQYnyrbW_mmqCpY8snF6919t-E/s640/40684212_10155890544568613_5228766363803189248_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">The eyes were made of vintage glass beads.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">I attached the arms and legs on the front, then lines both front and back with gold silk taffeta, before </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">sewing it together. I still need to find a suitable cord.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">It’s very small- I guess I could fit a lipstick inside it. Maybe.</span></div>
Isishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09380497568603304818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580595753456307919.post-18422754209052972782018-07-30T20:33:00.001+02:002018-07-30T20:33:38.051+02:00An Artistic inspired gown.Originally I had planned to make a white cotton undergown with a black wool overgown. the pattern coming from La Mode Bagatelle's <a href="https://www.ravenrook.com/art.php" target="_blank">Artistic Reform Teagown</a> for Visby Baddagar, the Victorian sea holiday I attended. But time ran away for me, and the white undergown wasn't finished in time. Instead I decided to wear my green silk taffeta dinnergown under the overgown, qith a high-necked chemise. I also wore my reform corset during the day, changing to a proper corset for the evening.<br />
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I liked the effect of black and green, though I still want to finish the cotton gown to wear with it. The overgown is the B-one, and it was very easy to sew. I had to make the crossover in the back deeper than indicated as my back is narrow. and I opted to only have one ribbon as I liked how it looked like this.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiefcE7dIB62294W-fSCj8eN4S0tXyF27105MqgdYdGP-m7-ftJaBLPk-1RaMR6pYRo6IEDGGJ_jtq2RAfZSxUDzEjBY9Su_IJGlB_S9ISxyDTslqCqgFoBYinPrqBNvHvYghCqxBewLbs/s1600/37719277_10155799075498613_5076413621727133696_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiefcE7dIB62294W-fSCj8eN4S0tXyF27105MqgdYdGP-m7-ftJaBLPk-1RaMR6pYRo6IEDGGJ_jtq2RAfZSxUDzEjBY9Su_IJGlB_S9ISxyDTslqCqgFoBYinPrqBNvHvYghCqxBewLbs/s640/37719277_10155799075498613_5076413621727133696_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Helping Lithia to hem her gown in the very last minute.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">While my husband watched the lovely view of the sea.</td></tr>
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The dinner dress was made from underdress B, but I redrafted the front to make it shirred instead of plain. I'm super pleased with it, even if I need to make a few small changes to improve the fit now.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Improvised hair- I simply hadn't had time to do proper research, but a lit of fake curls. The hair jewelry was made by Lithia, who you can see on this picture too.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMI0eVSgDN0LCZiE2pu1y0ipTvYLY96MFdPg5J_S3I-B74PqpLxQiSKnLdkwXG7jSMhgTgdYVHd7HGpESK47_Pnohrg-ZQs1VJJERyn6TKt2ajFCADr1uOBmiSFbDe8n5nJL6Tf6swWpY/s1600/37681672_10155799336373613_855633755392442368_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMI0eVSgDN0LCZiE2pu1y0ipTvYLY96MFdPg5J_S3I-B74PqpLxQiSKnLdkwXG7jSMhgTgdYVHd7HGpESK47_Pnohrg-ZQs1VJJERyn6TKt2ajFCADr1uOBmiSFbDe8n5nJL6Tf6swWpY/s640/37681672_10155799336373613_855633755392442368_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A gaggle of friends, some of which I went to Versailles with. The lady in red is wearing an original bodice!</td></tr>
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A glimpse of my corset, the wonderful <a href="https://www.foundationsrevealed.com/226-historical-corsetry/1900s-corset-patterns/521-the-sanakor-plunge-corset-1-part-1" target="_blank">Sanakor corset </a>from Foundations Revealed. I have Lithia to thank for it, as she enlarged the pattern and generously let me use it. I need to tweak it a little over the bust, but it did what it was supposed to do and gave killer curves without lacing down much at all.<br />
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<br />Isishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09380497568603304818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580595753456307919.post-15030476663555773802018-07-27T16:00:00.001+02:002018-07-30T20:02:20.235+02:00An 1870's bathing suitLast weekend I attended a Victorian sea holiday, and had a spledid time. And for that, among other things, I needed a bathing suit. I really liked <a href="https://www.mantua-maker.com/1870-7-grecian.html" target="_blank">The Mantua Maker's Grecian style bathing suit 1870-1890</a>, and made it up in dark green wool crepe. Strictly speaking this is not period as bathing suits seems to have been made in wool flanell or cotton, and in black, dark blue or pale grey. But I happened to have dark green wool crepe, and deemed it good enough.<br />
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I was quite pleased with it, but the pattern run a bit large, so I could have made it one size smaller and it would probably have looked better. As the pattern pieces are all more or less straight pieces I think I will unpick it and size it down. The bathing suit was not difficult to sew, but surprisingly time consuming. I also found the instructions rather confusing, as the instruction for lined versus unlined versions were mixed together, so you had to read very carefully to make sure you were following the right instructions. And some pattern pieces was called the same thing without the added information if it was meant for the front and the back. You had to look at the drawings and draw your conclusions from that.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lithia and I in the same bathing suit but obviously in different colours and decorations.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Feeling peckish... The hat is true vintage and once belonged to my great-grandmother.</td></tr>
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Before and after. It was actually very nice to wear after the bath as the wool kept you nicely warm, if wet. I didn't have time to make a matching bathing cap, but I plan to for next summer.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAjiJEAXgXEbjK2p2dHKK4oIUZ5BVPhwZTeExcaslaraom1SH0cu42PXzWMWgmWcEjJbWzOvun0gR5k4KbUiGFOP_-93DB0Lv1VFfusLqw_JlrGulxa1JIHR7DoQ8d09TKQel4fgSmdYw/s1600/37719195_10155801761888613_7267012341877702656_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAjiJEAXgXEbjK2p2dHKK4oIUZ5BVPhwZTeExcaslaraom1SH0cu42PXzWMWgmWcEjJbWzOvun0gR5k4KbUiGFOP_-93DB0Lv1VFfusLqw_JlrGulxa1JIHR7DoQ8d09TKQel4fgSmdYw/s640/37719195_10155801761888613_7267012341877702656_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbbETaNP5XIIHPq67dLrdWKJPNtEjK7XZeo-eatAEDi0T9g6T7bFoxYTH8JCUcB4awE8qLEM-UVKQmtoU7rjft_ezKRHzI0jst2l51VL-EWkEB1xdcgmt3efYe2YhdKDk7B6IugF5wYgk/s1600/37756819_10155801761973613_6142533910296264704_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1079" data-original-width="1080" height="638" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbbETaNP5XIIHPq67dLrdWKJPNtEjK7XZeo-eatAEDi0T9g6T7bFoxYTH8JCUcB4awE8qLEM-UVKQmtoU7rjft_ezKRHzI0jst2l51VL-EWkEB1xdcgmt3efYe2YhdKDk7B6IugF5wYgk/s640/37756819_10155801761973613_6142533910296264704_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeodI9Mz3KenbQ4vek48ZSLe8Wv3QpzQuJOY7ui2VfN6B0cB-KIscsOJIlwatb3Kq1yrB-GtFfq7wj9eSQzuKnQ9_0IdLaU4WYXdnqKuyF_StAoQ35_XuT1D3ioukY3tAIhqVreTRTkJc/s1600/20180721_111931+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1127" data-original-width="1600" height="450" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeodI9Mz3KenbQ4vek48ZSLe8Wv3QpzQuJOY7ui2VfN6B0cB-KIscsOJIlwatb3Kq1yrB-GtFfq7wj9eSQzuKnQ9_0IdLaU4WYXdnqKuyF_StAoQ35_XuT1D3ioukY3tAIhqVreTRTkJc/s640/20180721_111931+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A gaggle of bathing Victorians</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAjRSTVRPNVRF_anbrIXQ1P-6nbxD2yv32MLpK-9Dw7vMMIn8SZ_dG-6VAR7g6-Dmp-adMZ9VLXJusyFVq1xtVU-618iKMMFszB_JxtNve6b2DPEj1SQMdAng7orq332px8Lercvpz9Lg/s1600/37671621_10156242808826328_8909588112825384960_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1152" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAjRSTVRPNVRF_anbrIXQ1P-6nbxD2yv32MLpK-9Dw7vMMIn8SZ_dG-6VAR7g6-Dmp-adMZ9VLXJusyFVq1xtVU-618iKMMFszB_JxtNve6b2DPEj1SQMdAng7orq332px8Lercvpz9Lg/s640/37671621_10156242808826328_8909588112825384960_o.jpg" width="460" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My husband opted out of the bathing.</td></tr>
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The photos were taken by Lithis and Myra Lea. You can see more on their Instagram accounts; @lithiablack and @litenkrubba. You should also check out @efridis, and in case you didn't know, I have one as well; @isiswardrobe.Isishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09380497568603304818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580595753456307919.post-78258846203627332462018-05-28T17:51:00.000+02:002018-05-28T17:51:04.189+02:0016th century headdress, fiction and factI found this when I was looking for images suitable for my 1520’s gown project. It had nothing to do with it, but it was too good to pass on.<br />
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Pretty door knocker, c. 1500.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqv9Gx0yySoiFIiSlNssot70arGhlF7pCuo7MC42ordKUj4okfMUdo5yuB7NrLpt5LeGKKhRu2VqC-KusYjv0etg99OKYr4yNxEGZ1c6kcM2jrSOl_MeKSgK0eGDc2m4hHf8GHb5yfjKw/s1600/Sammlung_Ludwig_-_Artefakt_und_Naturwunder-Veit_Sto%25C3%259F-L%25C3%25BCsterweibchen80104+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqv9Gx0yySoiFIiSlNssot70arGhlF7pCuo7MC42ordKUj4okfMUdo5yuB7NrLpt5LeGKKhRu2VqC-KusYjv0etg99OKYr4yNxEGZ1c6kcM2jrSOl_MeKSgK0eGDc2m4hHf8GHb5yfjKw/s640/Sammlung_Ludwig_-_Artefakt_und_Naturwunder-Veit_Sto%25C3%259F-L%25C3%25BCsterweibchen80104+%25281%2529.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Sammlung_Ludwig_-_Artefakt_und_Naturwunder-Veit_Sto%C3%9F-L%C3%BCsterweibchen80104.jpg" target="_blank">Source; Wikimedia Commons</a></td></tr>
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And what must be the same kind of headdress, the extant version.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVvHoDMKCeX8gPx5ncAQO9Kco9X3PWUsJh-O_XVa-DWeKuiDprzo0k-GEQECcaH_AUALJIpS4JzvPWJzKoRssM2UMIynyaycKVL-0U3hOfJHCaUQM30zpXdBFZYh24iYfPTqC32k-nSJg/s1600/II_01_44.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="278" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVvHoDMKCeX8gPx5ncAQO9Kco9X3PWUsJh-O_XVa-DWeKuiDprzo0k-GEQECcaH_AUALJIpS4JzvPWJzKoRssM2UMIynyaycKVL-0U3hOfJHCaUQM30zpXdBFZYh24iYfPTqC32k-nSJg/s1600/II_01_44.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.kostym.cz/Anglicky/2_Detaily/01_Doplnky/II_01_44.htm" target="_blank">Ladies head dress from the grave No.31 (1525) in Geiterkinden Church. Now in Kantonsmuseum, Basseland</a></td></tr>
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<br />Isishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09380497568603304818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580595753456307919.post-50099101626102074452018-05-24T15:52:00.002+02:002018-05-24T16:06:57.772+02:00Resarch for a 1520's gown, part 4; resourcesThis is a list of books, articles, and blogs I have read, so far, and found useful. It is by no means a finished list, and I will add on it as I continue my research.<br />
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
Books and articles</h2>
Dahl, Camilla Dahl; <a href="http://www.dragt.dk/assets/PDF-filer/dragtjournalen3.pdf" target="_blank">“Huffer till Theris Hoffueder: Sen-renæssancens Kvindehuer, ca. 1560–1630,” </a><i>Dragtjournalen</i> 2, no. 3 (2008): 21–52, pp 39–46 [n Danish. About caps and hats for women, with some references to the earlier 16th century)<br />
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Dahl, Camilla Luise; <a href="http://livinghistory.dk/original/artikler/Dahl-borgerdragt.pdf" target="_blank">"Klædt i rigets borgerdragt. - stand, status og national identitet udtrykt i borgerskabets dragt i reformationstidens. Danmark-Norge og Sverige"</a> [In Danish. About the clothing of townspeople in Denmark, Norway and Sweden in the 16th century.)<br />
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Johnson, Caroline, edited by Jane Malcolm-Davies and Ninya Mikhaila; <i>The Queen's Servants: Gentlewomen's Dress at the Accession of Henry VIII</i>, Fat Goose Press Ltd (December 1, 2011) [Focus on the English court with patterns and sewing instruction]<br />
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<b>Blogs and web pages</b></h2>
<a href="https://amiesparrow.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">16th Century German Costuming </a><br />
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<a href="https://costumekullan.blogspot.se/" target="_blank">Costumekullan </a>[A fellow Swede who also are making clothes for 2020]<br />
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<a href="http://livinghistory.dk/original/" target="_blank">Dragter på epitafier og gravsten i Danmark</a>. [In Danish. “Clothing on epitaphs and tombstones in Denmark” spanning 16t-18th century. Lots of pictures!)<br />
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<a href="http://www.elizabethancostume.net/" target="_blank">Elizabethan Costume Page</a> [Huge collection of links, several of the useful for the early 16th century too.]<br />
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<a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120906063809/http://www.insaneaboutgarb.com:80/friesianfrockgirl/" target="_blank">The Friesian Frock Girl </a><br />
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<a href="http://germanrenaissance.net/about/" target="_blank">The German Renaissance of Genoveva</a><br />
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<a href="https://katafalk.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Katafalk </a><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqcySH2B2U8GKpFhSe9_yvmwKFO8Xu24OXOfYILwx10gb-fLENRb69NUyOQCxTR40WMiNFl2DlHytYDLoLAHOy2wuGeh8__9bp1AR6IzdNAkQujvp0VNBp9R4UpBwqJSoKVEOhBtVErKs/s1600/Blodbadstavlan_serierutorna.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="641" data-original-width="496" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqcySH2B2U8GKpFhSe9_yvmwKFO8Xu24OXOfYILwx10gb-fLENRb69NUyOQCxTR40WMiNFl2DlHytYDLoLAHOy2wuGeh8__9bp1AR6IzdNAkQujvp0VNBp9R4UpBwqJSoKVEOhBtVErKs/s1600/Blodbadstavlan_serierutorna.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail from <a href="https://sv.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blodbadsplanschen" target="_blank">"Blodbladsplanschen",</a> a depiction of Stockholm's Bloodbath. The original was made in 1524, but was lost in a fire in the 19th century. This is from a 17th century copy.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Isishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09380497568603304818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580595753456307919.post-23454134760651690912018-05-20T22:24:00.001+02:002018-05-20T22:31:10.566+02:00Resarch for a 1520's gown, part 3; what money can buy<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">I can’t make shoes so I will have to buy them. Here is a number of links in an alphabetic order to</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;"> places to purchase shoes. The only one I have personal experience of is Harr, which I’ve always been </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">very pleased with, but they are also pricey. I want good shoes, but I also don’t want to spend a fortune </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">on what I probably won’t use much. It’s also unlikely I will end up buying shoes from the USA as the </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">postage combined with taxes can double the cost.</span></div>
<b id="docs-internal-guid-b1dea5a8-7f2c-acfc-7e13-9328cfb96fd8" style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></b>
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<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><a href="http://www.andyburke.co.uk/c16th.htm" target="_blank">Andy Burke</a> </span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></b>
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<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><a href="http://armorarena.co.uk/footwear/leather-footwear" target="_blank">Armor Arena </a></span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></b>
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">F<a href="http://www.re-enactment-shoes.co.uk/" target="_blank">oxblade Shoes</a> </span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></b>
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<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><a href="http://www.harr-shoes.com/index.php?Renaissance4b94d07c9167f" target="_blank">Harr</a> </span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></b>
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><a href="https://nativearth.net/?v=f003c44deab6" target="_blank">Native Earth </a></span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></b>
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><a href="http://spqr.se/product/medeltida-skor-oxmulor-s018/" target="_blank">SPQR</a> </span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></b>
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><a href="http://www.pilgrimshoes.co.uk/" target="_blank">Pilgrim Shoes </a></span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></b>
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><a href="http://revival.us/luxurytudorshoe.aspx" target="_blank">Revival Leather Goods</a> </span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></b>
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><a href="http://taberna-historica.com/epages/11a11550-46e6-4aa2-b42a-39ccaaf268df.sf/sv_SE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/11a11550-46e6-4aa2-b42a-39ccaaf268df/Categories/%22SKOR%20%26%20ST%C3%96VLAR%22/Medeltidsskor" target="_blank">Taberna Historica</a></span><br />
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">I will also need some bling. The lady in my painting is wearing a gold chain around her neck, a </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">diamond-shaped brooch, and four rings on the visible hand. I think it’s likely she is wearing rings on </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">the other hand too. I’m not aiming to find jewelry which is exact replicas, but I want it to work for the </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">period.</span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></b>
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">I haven’t found any online shop for historical jewelry who sell this kind of heavy chain, but a quick </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">search on Etsy provided me with several suitable chains, so I don’t think it will be too hard to find a </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">suitable chain.</span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></b>
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<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><a href="http://armourandcastings.com/" target="_blank">Armour and Castings</a> have a few nice diamond shaped brooches.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG0B1XUoC3XZPvDhlusNxXSp-kiZaFHR4_mm9ml2jfym-LlbnRz_n2wZh2A3pFHDBvON9gEyTvJk0OiAOVbo4OBTuCQ_j8UysVdcj_t2Jc-CpWvOv_gHHn3aIUrZRnGpHjIPQtDut7sHY/s1600/6oxeRAj1R9Q.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="294" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG0B1XUoC3XZPvDhlusNxXSp-kiZaFHR4_mm9ml2jfym-LlbnRz_n2wZh2A3pFHDBvON9gEyTvJk0OiAOVbo4OBTuCQ_j8UysVdcj_t2Jc-CpWvOv_gHHn3aIUrZRnGpHjIPQtDut7sHY/s1600/6oxeRAj1R9Q.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">As for rings I have found a Swedish company;</span><a href="http://www.historiskafynd.se/index.php?route=common/home" style="font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre-wrap;" target="_blank">Historiska Fynd </a><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">who makes historical reproductions in bronze, which makes them rather inexpensive.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">15th century:</span></div>
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<br />Isishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09380497568603304818noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580595753456307919.post-47579454885621173392018-05-20T19:32:00.000+02:002018-05-20T19:37:28.604+02:00Resarch for a 1520's gown, part 2: the other necessary clothes<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The 16th century is a completely new period for me sewing-wise, but it was actually one of my first costume-loves, and I’ve always wanted to go there. I think I have a basic understanding of the period, but I still have a lot to learn. And I have a whole wardrobe to build! I mentioned Katafalk’s blog in my last post, and I will reference here several times because she’s worth it. She’s a brilliant Swedish seamstress and she has several excellent tutorials. I have, for example, found her post <a href="https://katafalk.wordpress.com/2015/07/13/how-to-frau/" target="_blank">How to Frau</a>, very helpful as it in a very pedagogic manner goes through the necessary layers and clothes. </span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I’m planning to build my wardrobe the sensible way; inside and outwards, so the first garment I’m going to make is the smock.</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">As you can see she is wearing a high necked, pleated smock which what looks like whitework around the neck. You can see similar smocks on many portraits of the period. At least I think they are smocks and not partlets.</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">For example, this portrait of Margareta Eriksdotter Vasa looks similar, but her gown is extremely low-cut, so it seem more likely it’s a partlet we see here. I include this because Margareta Vasa was Gustav Vasa’s sister, and the portrait is dated to 1528. It may have been painted in Lübeck, but at this point, Gustav Vasa was still unmarried, so Margareta was the most important lady in Sweden, and it’s likely her clothes reflect what was fashionable in Sweden. However, even if I the clothes I aim to make belong to a well-to-do woman, I’m not trying to be royalty.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5iL7dMsiyrRHvBmk6eJ2WDSv8jojuSwqKPj5Z1GEmm_6svxsoi9QjaSgCdSP0VoD4fqbM1smIOy11ZQ0-WWFkl1NncEkuueyac95NYFcgkPv9zymNiEhGQqc5Mxi3DsCJkBkZeh26ND8/s1600/Margareta_Eriksdotter_Vasa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="444" data-original-width="282" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5iL7dMsiyrRHvBmk6eJ2WDSv8jojuSwqKPj5Z1GEmm_6svxsoi9QjaSgCdSP0VoD4fqbM1smIOy11ZQ0-WWFkl1NncEkuueyac95NYFcgkPv9zymNiEhGQqc5Mxi3DsCJkBkZeh26ND8/s1600/Margareta_Eriksdotter_Vasa.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Margareta_Eriksdotter_Vasa.jpg" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9r3StLfCAl_AvaQGsprJwc-JL3O385hHD6Q2U5mf7FZwRKcdFYSSU0PDf_9UulihyxovCZH14iKWNcep9-SShd518QKDkIPW4aJZSRLY1sR6NExX10tgBROYlqo3EKscpMbCwFTiDNFk/s1600/Woman_with_a_Carnation%252C_Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1228" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9r3StLfCAl_AvaQGsprJwc-JL3O385hHD6Q2U5mf7FZwRKcdFYSSU0PDf_9UulihyxovCZH14iKWNcep9-SShd518QKDkIPW4aJZSRLY1sR6NExX10tgBROYlqo3EKscpMbCwFTiDNFk/s640/Woman_with_a_Carnation%252C_Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder.jpg" width="490" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Woman_with_a_Carnation,_Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder.jpg" target="_blank">Woman with a Carnation by Lucas Cranach the Elder</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3IIy4YdThbRxU53vcgzrqmD6FQXPGT-kBgSTRC8ZF6j0cdThnIxpjec43_BjxeKf4bq9QSflZZJDxpwzWuAvCuT9266BW8fxvBODEI8jtbfxtrJpxObh3UwYtRpWUunDutNCiRo3k9BQ/s1600/009ba4f32769e2e32a95181638e7f006--vans.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="736" data-original-width="736" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3IIy4YdThbRxU53vcgzrqmD6FQXPGT-kBgSTRC8ZF6j0cdThnIxpjec43_BjxeKf4bq9QSflZZJDxpwzWuAvCuT9266BW8fxvBODEI8jtbfxtrJpxObh3UwYtRpWUunDutNCiRo3k9BQ/s1600/009ba4f32769e2e32a95181638e7f006--vans.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/collection/BK-BR-444" target="_blank">Ursula Ligsalz, c. 1528</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">I’ve found two tutorials for a high-necked smock, one by <a href="https://katafalk.wordpress.com/2012/06/26/patternmaking-for-the-kampfrau-hemd-chemise/" target="_blank">Katafalk</a> and one by <a href="http://germanrenaissance.net/my-favorite-pennsic-smock-pattern-for-a-high-collared-unterhemd-with-honeycomb-pleatwork/" target="_blank">Genoveva von Lubeck</a>. I’m going to use Katafalk’s.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">As for stockings and hose, I’m going to sew a pair. I’m fairly certain you could get knitted stockings at this time, but I’m not very good at knitting, so sewn ones it is. I have found a tutorial at<a href="http://www.faucet.net/costume/research/hose.html" target="_blank"> Melanie Schuessler’s webpage.</a></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">I’ve never seen any references for stays this early in the 16th century, and ladies seen in profile are often quite curvy. But I definitely need some kind of support, and the answer to that is an underdress or kirtle. <a href="https://www.etsy.com/se-en/listing/482976216/the-queens-servants-gentlewomens-dress?ref=shop_home_feat_2" target="_blank">The Queen’s Servant by Caroline Johnson, edited by Jane Malcolm Davies and Ninya Mikhaila</a> talks about clothes at the English court in the early 16th century, so right time, but the wrong place. I still think the notes on kirtles have relevance for a wider area, and I will use the instruction in the book on how to construct it. The book mention kirtles interlined in the bodice by one, or for larger ladies, two layers of canvas to provide support, which I will do. I have not decided on fabric and colour yet. The Queen’s Servant has found that silk </span>sateen<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre-wrap;"> and black was the most popular choice at the English court, and I’m tempted to use that. As I mentioned in my last post black and silk satin was in use at Gustav Vasa’s court, but I don’t know if it was used for undergowns. And I don't know how far down the classes the material went.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Three paintings which depict possible undergowns or kirtles.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqNLKOi5-1gXubT-YHjPg3K4ZG1-QjcsthL1KzCnq2qJ9UAujsmX7cQqsk5mHmhU7DQQ955cLwCKZyIHji7ZSv1HkqlhVgbHgrjWZV0aR69eePYfk_bzm-EP3mbVHm0tHo5dy0FPDeO0A/s1600/cd5953771194eeda031ab0193d7af89a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqNLKOi5-1gXubT-YHjPg3K4ZG1-QjcsthL1KzCnq2qJ9UAujsmX7cQqsk5mHmhU7DQQ955cLwCKZyIHji7ZSv1HkqlhVgbHgrjWZV0aR69eePYfk_bzm-EP3mbVHm0tHo5dy0FPDeO0A/s640/cd5953771194eeda031ab0193d7af89a.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.etsy.com/se-en/listing/482976216/the-queens-servants-gentlewomens-dress?ref=shop_home_feat_2" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWDsApHWEzuM-x9W_zz3XsNEl4jfqf9shXpd27Rx8tKHJX76t3NeT9d_SmxzlLrwuVIzZtHgMRyb1VarlePSjwNJRA7w50uAL5-hB93BadWm6CKplytm5azLfpiMIinC27tOJKMOH6HO0/s1600/e6d81810295ab3f6644664f5b3d2b728.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1354" data-original-width="533" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWDsApHWEzuM-x9W_zz3XsNEl4jfqf9shXpd27Rx8tKHJX76t3NeT9d_SmxzlLrwuVIzZtHgMRyb1VarlePSjwNJRA7w50uAL5-hB93BadWm6CKplytm5azLfpiMIinC27tOJKMOH6HO0/s1600/e6d81810295ab3f6644664f5b3d2b728.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://thefuchsilady.blogspot.se/2013/05/" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWL-O-I3JEgVP6qh0CR5A3vOfmbFETKxVRLpVgLOuDXSgR_och1T73m-iXUWeCKSOGxBZU2OZDUyoUf_xBtbUc3yqRR7Rq20gOQedcG0ELBOE4KSwtW6XLlfHbFunKehUzJzMcF9f7Nkk/s1600/Georg_Pencz_-_Die_Melancholie+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="850" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWL-O-I3JEgVP6qh0CR5A3vOfmbFETKxVRLpVgLOuDXSgR_och1T73m-iXUWeCKSOGxBZU2OZDUyoUf_xBtbUc3yqRR7Rq20gOQedcG0ELBOE4KSwtW6XLlfHbFunKehUzJzMcF9f7Nkk/s640/Georg_Pencz_-_Die_Melancholie+%25281%2529.jpg" width="528" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Georg_Pencz_-_Die_Melancholie.jpg" target="_blank">Melancholy by Georg Pencz, 1545</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">The lady on my pictures is wearing a short shoulder cape, a </span>gollar<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">, in the same fabric as the gown. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK98ADByYwRNgJxPl2WbeM2MdOre0XhK9k_iTx6tsQw0KlPcxN460XmPN7AZIvMJh4I67bLDFJ7-LmIR7pK5F9S4ORZmBHz8hr7VG5xNiqdQBRXS031glAutbVAvZvdZnO5Otd_N7QQmA/s1600/PICT2527.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK98ADByYwRNgJxPl2WbeM2MdOre0XhK9k_iTx6tsQw0KlPcxN460XmPN7AZIvMJh4I67bLDFJ7-LmIR7pK5F9S4ORZmBHz8hr7VG5xNiqdQBRXS031glAutbVAvZvdZnO5Otd_N7QQmA/s640/PICT2527.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">You can see this garment on a lot of pictures, Like here, for example.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9W5zEslgeJAAOByBD-31jvrfBdkiG_f5dRLZHJBDEpU3dg7RNIycfTfNqb8OA97WZrWByz3G7AzR5wZlryybFHxGFWcoC6I_0H17DmFVLh2f-lja50d_YVQcLiAkSxpZaHUMT8rJtb0M/s1600/PICT1131+%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="434" data-original-width="343" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9W5zEslgeJAAOByBD-31jvrfBdkiG_f5dRLZHJBDEpU3dg7RNIycfTfNqb8OA97WZrWByz3G7AzR5wZlryybFHxGFWcoC6I_0H17DmFVLh2f-lja50d_YVQcLiAkSxpZaHUMT8rJtb0M/s1600/PICT1131+%25281%2529.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/original/andet/Odense%20Sct%20Knuds%20kirke/Altertavle/slides/PICT1131.html" target="_blank">Part of an altarpiece in St Knud's Church in Odense, Denmark, 1510-19</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6yOnpW26NLc94NcqF4E68OFvxJP3-1MydwAt_WwGn53E8bc2mbB37UkJpYx9sUuzXaxvrChZqvIFJpHuEsV63FA4wa13XUNCVpw2hxhsHJM6ZOoV3DZmnjgNLKJFHTzOFOhjG6ZySN9Q/s1600/Bild.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="691" data-original-width="512" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6yOnpW26NLc94NcqF4E68OFvxJP3-1MydwAt_WwGn53E8bc2mbB37UkJpYx9sUuzXaxvrChZqvIFJpHuEsV63FA4wa13XUNCVpw2hxhsHJM6ZOoV3DZmnjgNLKJFHTzOFOhjG6ZySN9Q/s1600/Bild.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.pinterest.se/pin/531424824756734844/" target="_blank">Jakob Seissenegger</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">It’s possible this short cape could was a way for women to distinguish themselves as decent women when they didn’t wear a long cloak. In Denmark in 1522 prostitutes were forbidden to cover their hair and wear “kåber” (cloaks), and in 1529 the same law came in place in Sweden, though the term there is “kragekåper”. I’m aware I’m making assumptions here, but “krage” means collar, so I think it isn’t impossible “kragekåper” can mean a very short cloak.</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/original/artikler/Dahl-borgerdragt.pdf" target="_blank">Klædt i rigets borgerdragt by Camilla Luise Dah</a>l)</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">And as Katafalk has <a href="https://katafalk.wordpress.com/2012/01/06/patternmaking-for-the-kampfrau-gollar/" target="_blank">a tutorial for on</a>e, I will use that.</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">Then we come to the cap. And I admit I have no idea how it’s constructed. Or rather, I have ideas, but I don’t know how close to correct they are. Input is most welcome!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG5OvsM3rG_ttiDK5FxD26Pug0VOim9rBvgXtufXRRoGUmvupLUoijBFf8XmwL7iqPxw515xUMfd7bTkj_TrjgiHqmBS7okTegcXLKvmm9OZqInma2LFbQA2jz2Ce_hg9yq5mExmLhQgc/s1600/aPICT2525.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="595" data-original-width="830" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG5OvsM3rG_ttiDK5FxD26Pug0VOim9rBvgXtufXRRoGUmvupLUoijBFf8XmwL7iqPxw515xUMfd7bTkj_TrjgiHqmBS7okTegcXLKvmm9OZqInma2LFbQA2jz2Ce_hg9yq5mExmLhQgc/s1600/aPICT2525.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">You can see a very similar cap here.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn3Ggqe3BOZSg1wJQX4WdhdOxI3LrQF4R5od4QuVOGdrP8zlFrsx6N2cM44w1_v5XAsGXdqw_ZBS0gSUZs_ZZHpnj3Y3B00vX2FQv1Se4yIjTBlJEsowj38y0vnGtXASWMC8uL6y83ZB4/s1600/98fe4491a14b4d6705a4359db8fc9cfe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="493" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn3Ggqe3BOZSg1wJQX4WdhdOxI3LrQF4R5od4QuVOGdrP8zlFrsx6N2cM44w1_v5XAsGXdqw_ZBS0gSUZs_ZZHpnj3Y3B00vX2FQv1Se4yIjTBlJEsowj38y0vnGtXASWMC8uL6y83ZB4/s1600/98fe4491a14b4d6705a4359db8fc9cfe.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://bjws.blogspot.se/2015/10/a-few-more-portraits-of-early-women.html" target="_blank">Probably by Jacob van Utrecht, early 16th century.</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">And a somewhat similar one here:</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDCy7XiabAVLhJVlDmjNoKJh8ts4V9GC5HASx5p4Zt117AHaNqJMLariveulHvzCxMQHVCfakrNZqE_41OhejMGa0h3c58S9NsJMXQnLIVBHVhmFFr_ky05VEcFkO8_igkUsPgK9xq3zA/s1600/1da269034358554f8427f25b555205b7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="333" data-original-width="250" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDCy7XiabAVLhJVlDmjNoKJh8ts4V9GC5HASx5p4Zt117AHaNqJMLariveulHvzCxMQHVCfakrNZqE_41OhejMGa0h3c58S9NsJMXQnLIVBHVhmFFr_ky05VEcFkO8_igkUsPgK9xq3zA/s640/1da269034358554f8427f25b555205b7.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.liveinternet.ru/users/bogsve/post375193748/" target="_blank">In the style of Barthel Bruyn the Elder, 16th century</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">I assume it is actually in two parts. Or three. An inner cap, caul or forehead cloth which sits tight around the head. Then the wearer’s braids are would like some kind of pillow(?) at the temples. And then another cap or possibly wide band is placed on top of it. Women n at least Denmark wore caps with a wide band placed on top of it, so I think it may be what we see here (</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #6a6a6a; font-family: inherit; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="http://www.dragt.dk/assets/PDF-filer/dragtjournalen3.pdf" target="_blank">Huffer till Theris Hoffueder</a></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #545454; font-family: inherit; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="http://www.dragt.dk/assets/PDF-filer/dragtjournalen3.pdf" target="_blank">: Sen-renæssancens Kvindehuer, ca. 1560–1630 by Camilla Luise Dahl</a>)</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I’ve no idea what it looks like from the back. I would love to recreate this cap if I can only figure out how it was plausibly made. In any case, I think the inner cap may be similar to the one <a href="http://germanrenaissance.net/german-goldhaube-cap-of-silk-gold-and-pearls-pattern-instructions-documentation-and-notes/" target="_blank">Genoveva von Lubeck has a tutorial for.</a></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">Another alternative is to make a </span>wulsthaube<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre-wrap;"> with a veil. Katafalk has tutorials for it <a href="https://katafalk.wordpress.com/2013/01/01/patternmaking-for-the-kampfrau-wulsthaube/" target="_blank">here</a>, <a href="https://katafalk.wordpress.com/2012/06/24/pattern-making-for-the-kampfrau-steuchlein/" target="_blank">here</a> and <a href="https://katafalk.wordpress.com/2012/06/25/how-i-wear-my-steuchlein/" target="_blank">here</a>, as has <a href="http://germanrenaissance.net/making-and-wearing-a-steuchlein-with-a-wulsthaube-and-schleier-german-bulge-hat-and-veil/" target="_blank">Genoveva von Lubeck</a>, <a href="https://amiesparrow.wordpress.com/dress-diaries/wulst-wulsthaube/" target="_blank">Amie Sparrow</a> and <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20121004070909/http://www.insaneaboutgarb.com:80/friesianfrockgirl/index.php/textiles/german-costume/making-a-wulsthaube" target="_blank">The Fresian Frock Girl</a></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Regardless of what kind of cap I make, I can also go for those nifty wide brimmed hats you see so often. <a href="http://germanrenaissance.net/german-split-brim-beret-hat-tutorial/" target="_blank">Genoveva von Lubeck have a tutorial for that too.</a></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The next post will be about the things I cannot make myself, shoes and jewelry.</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">And if you are interested in another take on the same problem, check out <a href="https://costumekullan.blogspot.se/2018/01/some-thoughts-around-my-1520s-outfit.html" target="_blank">Costumekullan who is also planning a Swedish 1520’s outfit.</a></span></span></div>
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Isishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09380497568603304818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580595753456307919.post-33928556752186964592018-05-19T21:03:00.000+02:002018-05-20T16:24:57.256+02:00Resarch for a 1520's gown, part 1: the gown<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-style: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Busy as I am sewing my Victorian wardrobe, I still have plans for the future. And as I was recently reminded of how practical a blog is to keep track oofresearch, this post is posted now for future references.</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-style: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">In November 1520 and event happened in Stockholm which can be seen as the starting point for modern Sweden. After years of political struggles ,the Danish king Christian II was crowned king of Sweden. In the days after nearly 100 people; noblemen, clergy and townsmen were executed in what became known as <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stockholm_Bloodbath" target="_blank">Stockholm Bloodbath</a>. Many of their female relatives was imprisoned and brought to Denmark. The claim had been made that Christian had the body of former regent Sten Sture the Younger and his son taken from their graves and mutilated and burnt. There is also a ghost story which says that if it rain the night of the anniversary of the massacre, the rain will turn into blood at the square Stortorget were the executions took place. Perhaps not so surprising Christian II is known as Christian the Tyrant in Sweden.</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; white-space: pre-wrap;">One of the purposes of the massacre was probably to scare the swedes into submission, but it backfired with a vengeance. The nobleman Gustav Vasa, whose father had been killed in the massacre, led a revolt, which ended with him being crowned king of Sweden in 1523, starting te Vasa dynasty which ended when Queen Kristina, his great-great granddaughter abdicated in 1654. Gustav Vasa, like his contemporary Henry VIII, initiated a reformation, making sweden protestant which it remain today. He also had several wives, but only three to Henry’s six, and none of them was executed or divorced. He also had better luck with sons; three of them became kings of Sweden.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-style: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">So, after this history lesson, you can probably guess that in 2020 the 500th anniversary of all this takes place, and there will very likely be several historical events. Which means I need an outfit which could plausibly have been worn in Sweden in 1520. Unfortunately, there aren’t many pictures of Swedish women from this period, but as Sweden had strong economical and political bonds with Denmark and what is now Germany, I decided to looks at pictures from those areas as well, choosing a time span of roughly 1500-1540.</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-style: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">And fell in love with this one.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTxkYImBrYasQeUrwXJv7b5K2cFY8SVjsqXqc3OSmhyphenhyphenVJoIWMjW2Moq4Gixrpl-JFaCzqQZuWJASCrHbMWl0PoYbu8npQJtQyg44xY0iSVlULc4y1oie5Bk1tSzbSlBqWitTLIb6OPl2w/s1600/PICT2523.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="619" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTxkYImBrYasQeUrwXJv7b5K2cFY8SVjsqXqc3OSmhyphenhyphenVJoIWMjW2Moq4Gixrpl-JFaCzqQZuWJASCrHbMWl0PoYbu8npQJtQyg44xY0iSVlULc4y1oie5Bk1tSzbSlBqWitTLIb6OPl2w/s1600/PICT2523.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/original/andet/Noedebo%20kirke/Altertavle/index.html" target="_blank">Detail from an altar piece at Noedeby Church, Denmark</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: inherit; white-space: pre-wrap;">It’s dated 1500-1520, but I think the date is closer to 1520 than 1500. I usually don’t copy clothes, but this is so pretty I can’t resist. It’s part of an altarpiece, but given the difference between the kneeling man and woman compared to the middle painting, I’m fairly convinced this is an actual portrait, probably of the couple who sponsored the painting.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQOQ8IdylWMZ8SLdj5ma0wtmdFynLTKyKxl_qtFUcFKAlVAjAhHAgKLIVTc_GGrCUV4lM8Er7js_tDNlsIJHoHj_eArwoj-JMwwZ6S6pf2gyhTM-9oXmDtcpV3a27j3wphtFHV18K7tsY/s1600/PICT2555.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQOQ8IdylWMZ8SLdj5ma0wtmdFynLTKyKxl_qtFUcFKAlVAjAhHAgKLIVTc_GGrCUV4lM8Er7js_tDNlsIJHoHj_eArwoj-JMwwZ6S6pf2gyhTM-9oXmDtcpV3a27j3wphtFHV18K7tsY/s640/PICT2555.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-style: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">It may have been painted in the Netherlands, or possibly just by a painter from that country, which is the wrong place. So I looked around to see if I could find similar gowns the area I'm interested in. And I found several with a similar silhouette, but usually fancier in style.</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-style: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">A rare Swedish example</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixBIbzUzkPNyPqIrDTlNTdW0GgxdOpkEF0NrHnFRfe8RGerbAkobyEFyYgzIzv6KDwaDAbv8sVmtzCbdTyfTGpI9dskeOUaRUxu2agOGZvUP3N4iIUTSojYnl0YENcSe4bDlYeOYN37Bo/s1600/9213209.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="551" data-original-width="291" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixBIbzUzkPNyPqIrDTlNTdW0GgxdOpkEF0NrHnFRfe8RGerbAkobyEFyYgzIzv6KDwaDAbv8sVmtzCbdTyfTGpI9dskeOUaRUxu2agOGZvUP3N4iIUTSojYnl0YENcSe4bDlYeOYN37Bo/s1600/9213209.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/original/andet/Noedebo%20kirke/Altertavle/index.html" target="_blank">Dorotea on an altar piece in Näs, Västergötland</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgacOK0HKZy-e1hJ05X15WTpAE0qaOoFg3HlWWLz74DAOO64b2jsNGBXDvIAvdJKJHds2bqG0_ot0kD8lOtvkzSXLS-_IGRbs0sz890f7zNfw-Y046fJ1iphdLoNqHu3a9q42FEsuaHW_U/s1600/54add90ccefb91c456af206e35d0d0c8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="560" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgacOK0HKZy-e1hJ05X15WTpAE0qaOoFg3HlWWLz74DAOO64b2jsNGBXDvIAvdJKJHds2bqG0_ot0kD8lOtvkzSXLS-_IGRbs0sz890f7zNfw-Y046fJ1iphdLoNqHu3a9q42FEsuaHW_U/s1600/54add90ccefb91c456af206e35d0d0c8.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.pinterest.se/pin/531424824755024767/" target="_blank">Young woman from a chandelier Southern Germany, Swabia Early 16th century</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxE-gGogZQZBBuvyQ45YHQAC2hg5ehE9Vy5rHRvxRg29NSsAkneku4vKKermBCyTAoAvT_mEbXbsNdKyzbZi6k7rPJhElKlRP5NA_Rio2rvmzhbQhN_VJ2KlnM7Fs-K1_9mxz8WrRxamY/s1600/1357934923-1055931-www.nevsepic.com.ua.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="729" data-original-width="500" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxE-gGogZQZBBuvyQ45YHQAC2hg5ehE9Vy5rHRvxRg29NSsAkneku4vKKermBCyTAoAvT_mEbXbsNdKyzbZi6k7rPJhElKlRP5NA_Rio2rvmzhbQhN_VJ2KlnM7Fs-K1_9mxz8WrRxamY/s640/1357934923-1055931-www.nevsepic.com.ua.jpg" width="438" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://nevsepic.com.ua/art-i-risovanaya-grafika/page,3,15999-artworks-by-hans-holbein-der-jungere-335-rabot-1-chast.html" target="_blank">Young woman in Basel by Hans Holbein the Younger</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGTwJvdXxsDTvj6HKlwC8C9gAGAE8LCSgN21mctoXt-mogXikUs3E5MZChcKCgqjNyAce6FUWPENuxCP_1cyl7B93fCCwlEfkYkpMOF2A4acEGohCPydhTwFnfgmYYWjZOxnHOuX1xHqk/s1600/PICT0483.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGTwJvdXxsDTvj6HKlwC8C9gAGAE8LCSgN21mctoXt-mogXikUs3E5MZChcKCgqjNyAce6FUWPENuxCP_1cyl7B93fCCwlEfkYkpMOF2A4acEGohCPydhTwFnfgmYYWjZOxnHOuX1xHqk/s640/PICT0483.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/original/Adelige/Magleby%20kirke/Pernille%20Krognos/index.html" target="_blank">Pernille Krognos, ca 1533, Magleby Church, Denmark</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAtamBBX2x7FjRJa1J73DW8IpY4E36HlX15nmPAdksGfLJz7qtI6Nq4_HRC5cS4gfwwsC2qfng3nUoMIPnPqYdIkAKQRlQixtKv7svFLUn6y3SKlSYE-LnRo027g9mWU1b2eeIT-syr3E/s1600/IMG_7898.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAtamBBX2x7FjRJa1J73DW8IpY4E36HlX15nmPAdksGfLJz7qtI6Nq4_HRC5cS4gfwwsC2qfng3nUoMIPnPqYdIkAKQRlQixtKv7svFLUn6y3SKlSYE-LnRo027g9mWU1b2eeIT-syr3E/s640/IMG_7898.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/original/Gravsten_Adelige/Valloeby%20kirke/Oluf%20Rosenkrantz%20og%20Ide%20Munk/index.html" target="_blank">The epitaph of Ide Munk in Valloeby Church, Denmark, ca 1545</a></td></tr>
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These gowns look very similar to the one I want, minus the gollar.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeJzkoc1MfJnAw30edknZywLnQwfPkXh0_yL_usFWdvRHJj3M9H_1VPHKW_XogD-T_xki2zM3qkFuohuXEuAZcYV52q9S68lT-lHudKGC1ODpCwtr6U50jzUJFS9EDDaHyjtSApKd8dHU/s1600/Lucas_Cranach_d._%25C3%2584._-_The_Fountain_of_Youth_%2528detail%2529_-_WGA05713.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="740" data-original-width="1087" height="435" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeJzkoc1MfJnAw30edknZywLnQwfPkXh0_yL_usFWdvRHJj3M9H_1VPHKW_XogD-T_xki2zM3qkFuohuXEuAZcYV52q9S68lT-lHudKGC1ODpCwtr6U50jzUJFS9EDDaHyjtSApKd8dHU/s640/Lucas_Cranach_d._%25C3%2584._-_The_Fountain_of_Youth_%2528detail%2529_-_WGA05713.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Fountain_of_Youth_(Cranach)" target="_blank">Detail from The Fountain of Youth by Lucas Cranach the Elder, 1546</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: inherit; white-space: pre-wrap;">I think it’s plausible to say this is a style which could have been worn in Sweden. As for </span>construction<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: inherit; white-space: pre-wrap;">, I think </span>it looks<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: inherit; white-space: pre-wrap;"> like it’s closed at the front. As the top of the sleeves are hidden by the </span>gollar<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: inherit; white-space: pre-wrap;">, I think it may have a pouf there, but there are completely plain sleeves too. I haven’t decided what I want yet. I plan to use wool, even if silk or velvet are other possibilities.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-style: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">I have some information about clothes worn at Gustav Vasa’s court, which of course is later than 1520. Black was the most popular colour, and velvet the most popular fabric, though silk satin was also in use. Seam allowances was 0,5-1 cm wide, and the seams generally pressed down or outwards. They were sewn in running stitches, between 3-7 mm in width, or stem stitches. (from </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #2e2e2e; font-style: italic; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Vasagraven</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #2e2e2e; font-style: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (1956), edited by Martin Olsson)</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-style: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">And what about extant clothes? What we have is very scant, and none for Sweden. The most famous one is the gown of Mary of Hungary, dated to 1510-25. It doesn’t look anything like the gown I want to make, although the back may be similar.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaF-WAQoH7XzVKaFqdfCW8RYFWYcdTnLPH3FhnMhJ4Uu6VlKQT-ywoAVz-DUA4aNkQHsH0J5IzMVcgg6-NlK87kLRQ6BKUsqlzvx6DrKFVcybrHBQd1NHR5MaEVtHharmQb6WEDdrpPN0/s1600/tumblr_mnn1ogf92B1sr43eyo1_500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="412" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaF-WAQoH7XzVKaFqdfCW8RYFWYcdTnLPH3FhnMhJ4Uu6VlKQT-ywoAVz-DUA4aNkQHsH0J5IzMVcgg6-NlK87kLRQ6BKUsqlzvx6DrKFVcybrHBQd1NHR5MaEVtHharmQb6WEDdrpPN0/s1600/tumblr_mnn1ogf92B1sr43eyo1_500.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://barbucomedie.tumblr.com/post/84230779355/antiquatedfashions-gown-of-mary-of-hapsburg" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWjSySO8pqep2ijQfkQAd5E6AU5CO-tgQyZecK2CIQ72gn61T6D2BfsAYIDK2ncMry6qyb6-gvfgmhdZG46cCMyPdUdyqVjFuydlSuAddReXvbfw38N127loy23WbIC1mz4XAYi3HxzSE/s1600/tumblr_mnn1ogf92B1sr43eyo2_250.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="188" data-original-width="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWjSySO8pqep2ijQfkQAd5E6AU5CO-tgQyZecK2CIQ72gn61T6D2BfsAYIDK2ncMry6qyb6-gvfgmhdZG46cCMyPdUdyqVjFuydlSuAddReXvbfw38N127loy23WbIC1mz4XAYi3HxzSE/s1600/tumblr_mnn1ogf92B1sr43eyo2_250.png" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: inherit; white-space: pre-wrap;">There is also the </span>gown<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: inherit; white-space: pre-wrap;"> of Anna </span>Jaigellon<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: inherit; white-space: pre-wrap;"> of Poland, ca 1547. Again it doesn't look much of what I want to make.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQO3xqWWvHy9FlYaDGw0yMxPUweF4AeyMtCjlPVT7JudFWoBcawo2QqTJoMgJreP5HBJPC5GyQ9eiW4SEvEeMEiOKUefMuh-blW5tT3ul01QU8kcxXFM_N5g_ksz45pV3dgJZKmuYMY6A/s1600/I_02_02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="476" data-original-width="586" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQO3xqWWvHy9FlYaDGw0yMxPUweF4AeyMtCjlPVT7JudFWoBcawo2QqTJoMgJreP5HBJPC5GyQ9eiW4SEvEeMEiOKUefMuh-blW5tT3ul01QU8kcxXFM_N5g_ksz45pV3dgJZKmuYMY6A/s1600/I_02_02.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.kostym.cz/Anglicky/1_Originaly/02_Renesancni/I_02_02.htm" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: inherit; white-space: pre-wrap;">I will also need a smock, hose, a kirtle, headgear, </span>gollar<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: inherit; white-space: pre-wrap;"> and jewelry. But this post is long enough as it is, so that will be in part 2.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-style: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>To read:</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-style: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Amie Sparrow </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://amiesparrow.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/early-16th-century-german-peasant-clothing.pdf" target="_blank">Early 16th Century German Peasant Clothing</a></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-style: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Drea Leed <a href="http://www.elizabethancostume.net/welldressdpeasant.pdf" target="_blank">The Well Dress’d Peasant, 16th Century Flemish Workingwomen’s Clothing</a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Eva Andersson <a href="http://evashistoricalcostumes.blogspot.se/2015/04/clothing-and-perceptions-of-gender-and.html" target="_blank">Clothing and perceptions of gender and body in medieval and early modern period</a></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: inherit; white-space: pre-wrap;">Katafalk <a href="https://katafalk.wordpress.com/2014/04/06/patternmaking-for-the-kampfrau-dress/" target="_blank">Tutorial for an early </a></span><a href="https://katafalk.wordpress.com/2014/04/06/patternmaking-for-the-kampfrau-dress/" target="_blank">16th century<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: inherit; white-space: pre-wrap;"> German dress</span></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: inherit; white-space: pre-wrap;">Do you have any other recommendations for must-reads?</span></div>
Isishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09380497568603304818noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580595753456307919.post-59860394016068609622018-05-11T13:12:00.000+02:002018-05-11T13:16:15.906+02:00Summer plans; a Victorian weekend by the sea<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">You can see from the last posts I haven't’ been idle despite my lack of blogposts. I also have plans for </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">the future. For the fifth year in a row, there'll be a Victorian weekend at <a href="https://sv.wikipedia.org/wiki/Villa_Fridhem,_V%C3%A4sterhejde" target="_blank">Villa Fridhem</a>, a Victorian </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">boarding house outside Visby. It was built in 1860 for the Princess Eugénie´I have never been there, </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">but last year a couple of friends went, and had so much fun I felt it was time to go.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/kTlUEQnETYI" width="480"></iframe></span></div>
<b id="docs-internal-guid-fb69eb40-4ed7-98e3-237b-f93fe99e7032" style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></b>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">The main problem are the clothes. You need a lot; morning clothes, bathing suit, daywear and evening </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">wear. And I don’t have any 19th century clothes. In fact, apart from the 1830’s, the 19th century </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">largely leaves me cold. But there are a lot of fun 19th century things going on, and I don’t want to miss </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">out. The time span for the bathing weekend is 1870-1900, and after discussing wardrobe with my </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">friend Lithia, we found a solution. I may not be super interested in mainstream fashion, but I’m always </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">interested in alternative fashions, regarding time. And in the late 19th century we have the often </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">overlapping Reform Dress movement and the Artistic/</span><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">Aesthetic Dress movement. So Lithia and I have </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">decided to go as two artistic ladies, and make our wardrobe accordingly. It’s not a style which is </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">recreated often; possibly because it's faux-medieval look easily makes them look like badly researched </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">Medieval clothes.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">I’ve finished a reform corset and one set of chemise and drawers. For morning and daywear, I’m using </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">the Sense of Style pattern. I’m making an overgown in black tropical weight wool, with an undergown </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">in white cotton batiste.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMW_m7SemYCVp17VomY3D9r1FRqMom_2LDR_1alEsPz6RfG-H-2B8KBkocLzrW8kaUeP3tGh-PmyXEiw4vw4HQVgkaDTtxDZCr_CKQmjriv_gqJaQw6x_vl_npy_req0-RyPyvj3eqoPY/s1600/a78c35bc05a92718f89eb7e6014c5cf6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMW_m7SemYCVp17VomY3D9r1FRqMom_2LDR_1alEsPz6RfG-H-2B8KBkocLzrW8kaUeP3tGh-PmyXEiw4vw4HQVgkaDTtxDZCr_CKQmjriv_gqJaQw6x_vl_npy_req0-RyPyvj3eqoPY/s640/a78c35bc05a92718f89eb7e6014c5cf6.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"> I’m going the white gown without the overgown for daywear. The inspiration comes from the </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skagen_Painters" target="_blank">Skagen painters</a> who often depicted their spouses in simple white gowns.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_ix-soijzbRWRbNsOgnlAqftTaqbjwYD8xhcQJ_HvA_GdZypH1BwKdHoSs5yFLQh-6CuZORSQWYfvkIKo-ZZ6OQcDXr4-NxKq3LUNnaAOoo7rcwqmkvzu5MTnCfYH0KK26SoXDEs2GR4/s1600/Michael_Ancher_-_A_stroll_on_the_beach_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="688" data-original-width="1600" height="274" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_ix-soijzbRWRbNsOgnlAqftTaqbjwYD8xhcQJ_HvA_GdZypH1BwKdHoSs5yFLQh-6CuZORSQWYfvkIKo-ZZ6OQcDXr4-NxKq3LUNnaAOoo7rcwqmkvzu5MTnCfYH0KK26SoXDEs2GR4/s640/Michael_Ancher_-_A_stroll_on_the_beach_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Michael_Ancher_-_A_stroll_on_the_beach_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg" target="_blank">A Stroll on the Beach by Michael Ancher, 1896</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">I’m also making a bathing suit in dark green wool, using <a href="https://www.mantua-maker.com/" target="_blank">The Mantua Maker’</a>s Grecian-Style bathing </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">suit.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVxgDk7GzJM56ztH66uwWMlgRlan0tYD3zI6o8YqkWP7dmKYb6QO6_U5B1kGH4VwZo8lZeFomNqIPX93oWfGdTyUd68FI-bjbdkwh_2Un70Ul9Z5NaFHcKMIxa8sQPee_d3FBJGxbaFfI/s1600/294f21923ab85aaf47ade952f237fddf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="387" data-original-width="446" height="277" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVxgDk7GzJM56ztH66uwWMlgRlan0tYD3zI6o8YqkWP7dmKYb6QO6_U5B1kGH4VwZo8lZeFomNqIPX93oWfGdTyUd68FI-bjbdkwh_2Un70Ul9Z5NaFHcKMIxa8sQPee_d3FBJGxbaFfI/s320/294f21923ab85aaf47ade952f237fddf.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">As for evening gown I fell in love with this portrait. I’m making it in green/blue shot taffeta, with </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">slightly different sleeves.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHrSrRdpGtU86pPRAO7GrJk17dEvrUV8n62YHls8OJdXOL9U-f2Q5FWo_9l0aGwVS5iHc-LtYvl3gRZfQfiWG0_ItQtIAZ3Hm1En3tvodXse5bFFoVPfrOBO-GoAH1XHbyzSyIOH6Ma1Q/s1600/2006AM3755_jpg_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="672" height="570" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHrSrRdpGtU86pPRAO7GrJk17dEvrUV8n62YHls8OJdXOL9U-f2Q5FWo_9l0aGwVS5iHc-LtYvl3gRZfQfiWG0_ItQtIAZ3Hm1En3tvodXse5bFFoVPfrOBO-GoAH1XHbyzSyIOH6Ma1Q/s640/2006AM3755_jpg_l.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O84113/mrs-luke-ionides-1848-1929-oil-painting-richmond-william-blake/" target="_blank">Mrs Luke Ionides by William Blake Richmond, 1882</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">And I found these lovely Victorian belt buckle to wear with it! </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">Even if I will be wearing the reform corset for daywear, I’ll wear a proper corset for this one.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">I originally planned to make a bicycle suit too but felt it would be too stressful for now. Possible in the </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">future! Also, coming up is a 1520's gown.</span></div>
Isishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09380497568603304818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580595753456307919.post-57005166095926341872018-05-05T11:32:00.000+02:002018-05-05T11:43:08.551+02:00The 17th century hurluberlu hairstyle with a short tutorial<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span id="docs-internal-guid-fb69eb40-2f74-ecae-dae6-aac319ea44a8"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">I started to write this post in September when I was about to go to an 1680 ball and I was doing research for the hairstyle called hurluberlu. It was a hairstyle which became fashionable in the 1670’s, and it was seen as a very new and daring style. But after looking at a number of paintings said to depict a hurluberlu, I wondered what it was. It’s often described as a wild array of curls around the face, but in one form or another, that had been fashionable since the 1620’s. But from what I can gather from my research is that the new thing with the hurluberlu was that it the hair was cut quite short.. Women in the 17th century wore their hair long. Even if the hair around the face could be cut to a shorter length to accommodate to fashion, the hair on the back of the hair was long and worn in a chignon. (<a href="http://madameisistoilette.blogspot.se/2014/12/the-17th-century-spaniel-ears-hairstyle.html" target="_blank">An overview can be found here</a>.)</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8h0hZNuUvxcA7G4kv7UuT_eQ2ODy6aXn_U5Hibz8u1-Ep0ZpmtAXVInUdcsKTJMCYE4lPMzFeT57BjtdessHJ_ov2fOXRJQtbEdoB7JYugh47ire_DtqWzzWEhrcuxSxYqDewgvJbQgQ/s1600/Justus_van_egmont-dama.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1050" data-original-width="849" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8h0hZNuUvxcA7G4kv7UuT_eQ2ODy6aXn_U5Hibz8u1-Ep0ZpmtAXVInUdcsKTJMCYE4lPMzFeT57BjtdessHJ_ov2fOXRJQtbEdoB7JYugh47ire_DtqWzzWEhrcuxSxYqDewgvJbQgQ/s640/Justus_van_egmont-dama.JPG" width="515" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wild curls, but far too early. <a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Justus_van_egmont-dama.JPG" target="_blank">Unknown woman by Justus van Egmont, 1650-55</a>.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpHQBIsGy2kQ4c42-TuVCkwd9-6C7TM3T72VRjZaQmLGh9zBRmyZLt4lLIV_gvrhzEgFYRI-G1UMY42iPUB7dNAhdns9kbO11XKougTLTkD9gI7GUzilGv0ELCkcvNU13oTfCnkMwOMvc/s1600/268817-1334826275.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="408" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpHQBIsGy2kQ4c42-TuVCkwd9-6C7TM3T72VRjZaQmLGh9zBRmyZLt4lLIV_gvrhzEgFYRI-G1UMY42iPUB7dNAhdns9kbO11XKougTLTkD9gI7GUzilGv0ELCkcvNU13oTfCnkMwOMvc/s640/268817-1334826275.jpg" width="521" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.royalcollection.org.uk/collection/420066/margaret-lady-tufton-1617-before-1657" target="_blank">Margaret, Lady Tufton by David des Granger, before 1650</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKMhcd6T-RbFT09jaQ2IQrqUXULlL2zXvm0LH5coN-q5oCbjdOaQfXr1tkZA0rArFEigl785cSRCuWBTMgLhrYlLGZCBhPcx8SKpGU1u9GN8K34TW5DX5YBqJmJpc5d8nUlq4GfejRbFo/s1600/anna-maria-carpegna-naro_med.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="922" data-original-width="725" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKMhcd6T-RbFT09jaQ2IQrqUXULlL2zXvm0LH5coN-q5oCbjdOaQfXr1tkZA0rArFEigl785cSRCuWBTMgLhrYlLGZCBhPcx8SKpGU1u9GN8K34TW5DX5YBqJmJpc5d8nUlq4GfejRbFo/s640/anna-maria-carpegna-naro_med.jpeg" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The right time period, but she's wearing her back hair in a large chignon, wound with pearls. <a href="http://www.gogmsite.net/casual_dress_-_1641_to_1683/anna-maria-carpegna-naro.html" target="_blank">Anna Maria Carpegna Nero by Jacob Ferdinand Voet.</a></td></tr>
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<span id="docs-internal-guid-fb69eb40-2f7d-1c03-7368-b0e62575d34d"></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">The hurluberlu needed a shoulder-length hair cut in layers, not only in the front but in the back too. It</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">was then parted in the middle and curled. The curls were deliberately arranged to look disheveled,</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"> and when the hairstyle was finished the curls should not reach more than a finger width below the</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"> earlobes, all around the head. The exception was two long curls behind each ear or the temples</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"> which could be shoulder-length, or even longer. To keep the curls they were stiffened with Gum</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"> Arabic or egg whites. The hairstyle could be decorated with jewelry or ribbons. The hair made the</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"> head look quite round, which also earned it the nickname “cabbage-style”. Some called the hairstyle</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"> youthful, while other claimed it made women look like men.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">Three possible hurluberlu’s.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtxdbexfLoIjYZFHrUc0gY7lUmQ4cwIK9EkNGXxiiLRj1rXNsHDsIBSisohP_x-Au0Mby2t_VM9L5mmx2b7YQTKEWvoQWkgFYB9uHu3XTGWjFtYFQs6V5I_w-rLdAj5ma4GzxJxXytMSE/s1600/2000x2000-big08-70f54662.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1280" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtxdbexfLoIjYZFHrUc0gY7lUmQ4cwIK9EkNGXxiiLRj1rXNsHDsIBSisohP_x-Au0Mby2t_VM9L5mmx2b7YQTKEWvoQWkgFYB9uHu3XTGWjFtYFQs6V5I_w-rLdAj5ma4GzxJxXytMSE/s640/2000x2000-big08-70f54662.jpg" width="512" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.gosee.us/image/marsil-wallraf-richartz-museum-amp-fondation-corboud-featuring-painter-godefridus-schalcken-788478/news/31505" target="_blank">Elisabeth Tallyarde by Godefridus Schalken, 1679</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3fRZZeieXYJt4d5FxdmxCSgBCc0ygGAEJmanhxXfPdcjQw4zGJ2ajz1Lx3LVUJuYDVTLSKYBfM2y1a8ZBOyK4Sfe8gXFBQvDrcU7_IMyQ8Vq32Zgx9khLDylr7HshVIH1aN5ABZQNfzE/s1600/Maes-N.-Meulenaar-040604-04-810x1136.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1136" data-original-width="810" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3fRZZeieXYJt4d5FxdmxCSgBCc0ygGAEJmanhxXfPdcjQw4zGJ2ajz1Lx3LVUJuYDVTLSKYBfM2y1a8ZBOyK4Sfe8gXFBQvDrcU7_IMyQ8Vq32Zgx9khLDylr7HshVIH1aN5ABZQNfzE/s640/Maes-N.-Meulenaar-040604-04-810x1136.jpg" width="456" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://hoogsteder.com/paintings/portrait-of-a-woman-probably-anna-or-maria-meulenaer/" target="_blank">Portrait of a woman, probably Anna or Maria Meulanaer by Nicholas Maes</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAxEsuzDN50a-wEcWVO24XvE98IerccH0sPTv9oO0qM3l780Y6eDFLEY5c4zCLBe4PZedi_RSO2bgsWHGkr6wD1GrVJXUEXEmn0nmsJgQxDtx8UY7saD4aMRZayz-2y19ANqh-LcBLzjc/s1600/marie-mancini-by-jacob_med.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="762" data-original-width="652" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAxEsuzDN50a-wEcWVO24XvE98IerccH0sPTv9oO0qM3l780Y6eDFLEY5c4zCLBe4PZedi_RSO2bgsWHGkr6wD1GrVJXUEXEmn0nmsJgQxDtx8UY7saD4aMRZayz-2y19ANqh-LcBLzjc/s640/marie-mancini-by-jacob_med.jpeg" width="546" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.gosee.us/image/marsil-wallraf-richartz-museum-amp-fondation-corboud-featuring-painter-godefridus-schalcken-788478/news/31505" target="_blank">Marie Mancini by Jacob Ferdinand Voet</a></td></tr>
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<span id="docs-internal-guid-fb69eb40-2f84-241a-ed37-87587cd9a5fb"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">At this point, my hair reached halfway shoulders and was cut in layers, so I thought it would be interesting to try to style it in the was of a hurluberlu. To curl it I used my standard curling method; <a href="http://fortieswardrobe.blogspot.se/2011/08/best-pin-curls.html" target="_blank">standing pin curls</a>. I parted my front hair in the middle and used a pencil to curl my hair around. And I made a lot of them; about 50. I prefer wet sets, so I slept on it.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBY5aW1f2Yf7G86Uu37-rojURflgWkuLCDGqzcLP_flqJk8pSN5Zec3TCwV0gmtMPU-7BxqdOiv6uJe1PlUssJqIB7McVlXqrlIG-8y-NazEC5rGyvoC1mJjCOu6JQ2MgHCQ8x_tWoBA0/s1600/31914135_10155622072083613_7043071690502307840_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="666" data-original-width="642" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBY5aW1f2Yf7G86Uu37-rojURflgWkuLCDGqzcLP_flqJk8pSN5Zec3TCwV0gmtMPU-7BxqdOiv6uJe1PlUssJqIB7McVlXqrlIG-8y-NazEC5rGyvoC1mJjCOu6JQ2MgHCQ8x_tWoBA0/s320/31914135_10155622072083613_7043071690502307840_n.jpg" width="308" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzQKDbePYxKXDpzocVFLgp8FIFQxeyrJJr__0atV1KRdOBkRu8YOmyddxuCDv7HNhI_ZEPlK7YXhLaqMLoN7HedVpGD3kfWr4-87ZlltcKPc7C311AtPGnDMdeb5Gi6D_1XJSeagCI0xc/s1600/31945897_10155622072073613_3643509839113486336_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="588" data-original-width="960" height="392" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzQKDbePYxKXDpzocVFLgp8FIFQxeyrJJr__0atV1KRdOBkRu8YOmyddxuCDv7HNhI_ZEPlK7YXhLaqMLoN7HedVpGD3kfWr4-87ZlltcKPc7C311AtPGnDMdeb5Gi6D_1XJSeagCI0xc/s640/31945897_10155622072073613_3643509839113486336_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A not so brilliant drawing of how I curled the hair.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmL2YaVGye5NJilu868DLwHeNK5cM_tOsrOtmnTtgL4iGIeG_qMOx9v38TYigYEpmoaYf1kMJgr6uVYm8KJ9p_vWECAZvNlUO3cJTzaZowQssTjQNTI_9obXIe1RzLPgsTTGn5Xk7JiRY/s1600/31944856_10155622072078613_5954117882613858304_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="519" data-original-width="685" height="484" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmL2YaVGye5NJilu868DLwHeNK5cM_tOsrOtmnTtgL4iGIeG_qMOx9v38TYigYEpmoaYf1kMJgr6uVYm8KJ9p_vWECAZvNlUO3cJTzaZowQssTjQNTI_9obXIe1RzLPgsTTGn5Xk7JiRY/s640/31944856_10155622072078613_5954117882613858304_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A curling test run (I forgot to take pictures later). There were a lot more curls in the final set, but you see the idea.</td></tr>
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<span id="docs-internal-guid-fb69eb40-2f86-8f03-1605-6b6bc3a71911"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">When dry I brushed it out. Oooops.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3N3Ze1J6vSOXufzRRvzTI-R7NTcwxc5RarOOPJMUceAzBthFxqBB9z-HWuqS7rspROhxNYQ3x9bqCR8xw1wZb1aMoCpZT88cuV06oZKcQGPPP4cJOGtbYtiHdrE24CoDq_VJWA3D8ITE/s1600/31543601_10155622071973613_2913925986514894848_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="563" data-original-width="720" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3N3Ze1J6vSOXufzRRvzTI-R7NTcwxc5RarOOPJMUceAzBthFxqBB9z-HWuqS7rspROhxNYQ3x9bqCR8xw1wZb1aMoCpZT88cuV06oZKcQGPPP4cJOGtbYtiHdrE24CoDq_VJWA3D8ITE/s640/31543601_10155622071973613_2913925986514894848_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">Very disheveled, but hardly the right look. I bruche it for a while longer, brushing down and in. I</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"> backcombed the roots a little to keep the volume. I then rubbed hair pomade on my fingers and</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"> started to make separate curls. I curled a strand of hair around a finger, starting halfway from the</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"> roots. It took a little time to go over the whole head, but it wasn’t difficult.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRxpCo7xA0GnEu0H3eo4e-nwCd2ARZZUa0RyyDlL3fQFFt-d8qGCwr647D7f-4ufEhGFcb2TU93YqLOexlnwSGklXa3eStMVaVl3lCsF4E0WCNgHkJzg0Lg6tbabvUCLZWNknzolnSSH4/s1600/31945844_10155622071963613_9116140902635536384_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="536" data-original-width="960" height="356" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRxpCo7xA0GnEu0H3eo4e-nwCd2ARZZUa0RyyDlL3fQFFt-d8qGCwr647D7f-4ufEhGFcb2TU93YqLOexlnwSGklXa3eStMVaVl3lCsF4E0WCNgHkJzg0Lg6tbabvUCLZWNknzolnSSH4/s640/31945844_10155622071963613_9116140902635536384_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Until it basically looked like this.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">I then pinned up some of the hairs on the back of my head to keep the style uniform in length.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVjr102HgIVFuJIeDqCHo8aKHkjvIEkuYu1sf6fAA4XH-LZ026Dwf_0MMJEdi0pqkqwy-N0CSXYa4j2cVmX2vylY_7yv77ryo8twuPpZAUVlxatPe4ZCN60BFqwx7Pzot6TT-_OPcmFDE/s1600/21765244_10155071057653613_765023794043257050_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="673" data-original-width="652" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVjr102HgIVFuJIeDqCHo8aKHkjvIEkuYu1sf6fAA4XH-LZ026Dwf_0MMJEdi0pqkqwy-N0CSXYa4j2cVmX2vylY_7yv77ryo8twuPpZAUVlxatPe4ZCN60BFqwx7Pzot6TT-_OPcmFDE/s640/21765244_10155071057653613_765023794043257050_n.jpg" width="620" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">I pinned two long fake curls at my ears. And decorated it with loops made of silk ribbons.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw7tJL-ydwBeeO9-Z-s-Q8QREnMK9LVij3KYjjYkuEScg_7FE3X77hMEcPl-7X89-czgoln6Us2rZ1TaiD8FuicPSr3xi2WhJwX41axbuBDKymxOYUIf9TzACkGOBrg_hp0yMhef8dOf0/s1600/31939626_10155622071958613_8918995362513944576_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="385" data-original-width="367" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw7tJL-ydwBeeO9-Z-s-Q8QREnMK9LVij3KYjjYkuEScg_7FE3X77hMEcPl-7X89-czgoln6Us2rZ1TaiD8FuicPSr3xi2WhJwX41axbuBDKymxOYUIf9TzACkGOBrg_hp0yMhef8dOf0/s640/31939626_10155622071958613_8918995362513944576_n.jpg" width="610" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">Overall I was pleased with it. It could have used a bit more oomph, and I’ll probably add some short</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"> fake curls the next time. I also need a lot more ribbon loops for a more opulent look.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUUOZzNHwgTgXs-f9lWJC_P-9mrXCsX9li1_d6ZTZsr7T3JNO1f5N-zXpMYNtI_SgQWkepmTFF4jfrham26BwyhVFLZ3mgqt-PeeKF2nBMvbsG_Xe__dbgMYKjcTNu0Ue85HaYeLWhCxs/s1600/31939658_10155622071968613_1142702080897581056_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="692" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUUOZzNHwgTgXs-f9lWJC_P-9mrXCsX9li1_d6ZTZsr7T3JNO1f5N-zXpMYNtI_SgQWkepmTFF4jfrham26BwyhVFLZ3mgqt-PeeKF2nBMvbsG_Xe__dbgMYKjcTNu0Ue85HaYeLWhCxs/s640/31939658_10155622071968613_1142702080897581056_n.jpg" width="460" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">Read more</span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://www.google.com/search?hl=sv&tbo=p&tbm=bks&q=inauthor:%22Augustin+Challamel%22"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Challamel</span></a><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, </span><a href="https://www.google.com/search?hl=sv&tbo=p&tbm=bks&q=inauthor:%22Augustin+Challamel%22"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Augustin</span></a></span><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">: </span><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>The History of Fashion in France: Or, The Dress of Women from the Gallo-Roman Period to the Present Time</i></span><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, 2013 </span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Corson, Richard:</span><i><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Fashions in Hair: The First Five Thousand Years</span></i><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, 2005</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Harrison, Molly: </span><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>Hairstyles and hairdressing</i></span><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Dufour, 1969</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kelly,</span><a href="http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/knowledge/Francis.html" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Francis</span></a><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> M.,</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"> and Randolph Schwabe. </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">Historic Costume: A Chronicle of Fashion in Western Europe, 1490–1790. </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">2nd ed. New York: Charles Scribner's Sons, 1929.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">Coiffures femmes Louis XIV (1643 - 1715):<a href="http://www.coiffure-ducher.fr/louisxiv_femdescr.html" target="_blank"> Pictures</a> and <a href="http://www.coiffure-ducher.fr/louisxiv_femgene.html" target="_blank">text</a></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">Reinette: </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: #330019; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><a href="http://jeannedepompadour.blogspot.com/2012/03/hurluberlu-anna-maria-luisa-de.html" target="_blank">The Fashionable Hurluberlu</a></span></div>
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<span id="docs-internal-guid-71d37ce3-2fa2-5c69-2710-88b4144183aa"><br /></span>Isishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09380497568603304818noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580595753456307919.post-86130437785387264462018-04-21T15:42:00.000+02:002018-04-21T15:54:16.240+02:00What I have been up to<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">I haven’t updated here for a year and a half. The truth is I got rather burnt out on writing. I’ve been</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">blogging about my sewing since 2014, starting on LJ and eventually also here, so I guess it’s quite </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">natural to grow tired. There has also been a shift in the blogging culture. When I started you could </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">count on interesting discussions in the comments, while you now rarely get any comments at all. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">There are far more blogs to follow, and everyone has a finite amount of time reading them. And a lot </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">of discussions has moved to FB, for good and bad. I’m not better than anyone else- I rarely find time </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">for reading blogs anymore. But it still isn’t all that fun writing for the crickets. I’ve been debating with </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">myself what to do with my blogs. Close them, delete them, or continue writing. I have three, after all. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">When I started I wrote so much it was easy to fill them all with content.</span></div>
<b id="docs-internal-guid-fb69eb40-e868-5dd9-49b7-813bce177dc2" style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></b>
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<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">I still haven’t decided what to do with the other blogs, though I think I’m going to merge them with </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">this blog, and only post here in the future. As for this one, I’ve come to the conclusion it’s a practical </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">way to keep track on research on my sewing projects. Nevermind if those posts get comments, or not; </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">it’s still an easy way for me to check up on myself.</span></div>
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<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">And I have been sewing. Since my last update I have finished, but not photographed; a 1910’s corset, </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">and one from the very first years of the 20th century. I’ve also made a Victorian chemise and trousers </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">set. And I also;</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">Made a late 18th-century apron for a common woman. It was a fashion to make aprons for festive </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">occasions of printed cotton. This one is a reproduction fabric from Duran Textiles, dated to 1745.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><br /></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWDtX4oB1iPG7H09ZtZqNdsJSvDNj5UL6tlQhGsGi5ku9O36WIDMuPSImxGitopmJYN1hlFrkw5U8BitwvdfihvwjfNrZH3g6d94eilxemxVv4BZ7WNDa3V2LPrU9PoVvfDlOqxrTlmvw/s1600/18581510_10154705894483613_6168561345060726762_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="548" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWDtX4oB1iPG7H09ZtZqNdsJSvDNj5UL6tlQhGsGi5ku9O36WIDMuPSImxGitopmJYN1hlFrkw5U8BitwvdfihvwjfNrZH3g6d94eilxemxVv4BZ7WNDa3V2LPrU9PoVvfDlOqxrTlmvw/s640/18581510_10154705894483613_6168561345060726762_n.jpg" width="364" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">Cut off the too short skirt on a late 18th century round gown and made it into a jacket instead.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">Added fake goldwork and a stomacher to my sleeved stays, and also re-made the petticoat. Then I </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">went to a ball at Versailles wearing it and had a lot of fun with my friends.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><br /></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3bSUgKjwF6EWISwFoON_ocm61Ej9CPr8nZMyVfABrsdp4L8whab0In25ivg3QwVH-_1Jf9Tv4Hslp03UAMatUKEOkPYClUYaL1kM_M2U_XVeBMLAd1BKzOZmE4Xt1TD5cX-F17qmc5eQ/s1600/18920818_10155159289551328_5846254929345475592_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3bSUgKjwF6EWISwFoON_ocm61Ej9CPr8nZMyVfABrsdp4L8whab0In25ivg3QwVH-_1Jf9Tv4Hslp03UAMatUKEOkPYClUYaL1kM_M2U_XVeBMLAd1BKzOZmE4Xt1TD5cX-F17qmc5eQ/s640/18920818_10155159289551328_5846254929345475592_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><br /></span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></b>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">I also went to a few picnics, once in my 1740’s black wool jacket, and once in my striped 1790’s </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; white-space: pre;">gown.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">I made a mid-17th-century jacket in maroon wool and teal silk ribbons. I need to make re-make the </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">cuffs, though.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSc9A2EWOoTFrql1h4P2SXiJ0MiG5w3HqIKwTYUVTRnlbs8S8SC2iHwyb45Fbbdm8cwIIEeeiXfxJSYQbScriVAeLcXr6J5Rh0rVe6ZY1EbZPOSXrwljWRegI99bPe64t9pN5hkMcb-2U/s1600/28827613_10155488461778613_2237445139133224401_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSc9A2EWOoTFrql1h4P2SXiJ0MiG5w3HqIKwTYUVTRnlbs8S8SC2iHwyb45Fbbdm8cwIIEeeiXfxJSYQbScriVAeLcXr6J5Rh0rVe6ZY1EbZPOSXrwljWRegI99bPe64t9pN5hkMcb-2U/s640/28827613_10155488461778613_2237445139133224401_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">I finally made the early mantua I’ve talked about for so many years, out of a roll of Japanese kimono </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">silk. Wore it an amazing 1680's ball at Castle Salsta.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><br /></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIhR5GJ28UpYn0lw2oCPCTYm0Is_PtU7DKL1Pn9XQ90_URxU80i3mJ4LZWEw7c7UxV4ScYs6oRqMIpD7aYRS487tSYMUfpRUu5uqDQQeiEE7KKtCdLd_ZVrBd8sLgBwaRauqGw-X527hA/s1600/21586765_10155052258978613_8216491964553872940_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="856" data-original-width="1132" height="483" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIhR5GJ28UpYn0lw2oCPCTYm0Is_PtU7DKL1Pn9XQ90_URxU80i3mJ4LZWEw7c7UxV4ScYs6oRqMIpD7aYRS487tSYMUfpRUu5uqDQQeiEE7KKtCdLd_ZVrBd8sLgBwaRauqGw-X527hA/s640/21586765_10155052258978613_8216491964553872940_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">I realised I would never finish those Regency stays I started ten years ago, so I changed them slightly </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">into a late 19th-century reform corset.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><br /></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVkujV6mAL20mZJsArn5ZnzzS17ZqYlhKRnnGU3RcntzyUTfoHuzhFdUVuW-IXmbrtoGPM-JVsxoK0vPtVmZWRkjXEmSm7_rOHVDjDuNEdz1fYhbGJZfYjWpDiQsU6vyBzcJJSZFw2_vw/s1600/23559450_10155199263088613_6431301644211816846_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="708" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVkujV6mAL20mZJsArn5ZnzzS17ZqYlhKRnnGU3RcntzyUTfoHuzhFdUVuW-IXmbrtoGPM-JVsxoK0vPtVmZWRkjXEmSm7_rOHVDjDuNEdz1fYhbGJZfYjWpDiQsU6vyBzcJJSZFw2_vw/s640/23559450_10155199263088613_6431301644211816846_n.jpg" width="472" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">Went as Flora to a masked ball in Bath, using the sleeved stays, without sleeves as a base, adding a </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">bunch of fake flowers.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguu6hTmbq9VpyL2ICy2anXwu_sJ_atc7KRvd_QuriTiFSVfaRb_ZCzod68aFxkGWG5D3cWiM2T9SqMTwpfSUhH6mxg78iLzAuq0eSH1xwSrVhxowQfHS-cADOqjrrtlMjQGcA44tI-YnY/s1600/29060902_10155533166703613_4501043957864833784_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="994" data-original-width="607" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguu6hTmbq9VpyL2ICy2anXwu_sJ_atc7KRvd_QuriTiFSVfaRb_ZCzod68aFxkGWG5D3cWiM2T9SqMTwpfSUhH6mxg78iLzAuq0eSH1xwSrVhxowQfHS-cADOqjrrtlMjQGcA44tI-YnY/s640/29060902_10155533166703613_4501043957864833784_o.jpg" width="390" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMoAM52_lyDQPMxAZ-6JzsVdR0PJboas5T2E2GWT9OyUO0UXxeZpJepiQzvpfF3Mz-tAHR5n0fIzxoz3Af2tqZlYETilAhcgYwMWgawQy3ZrjVOxUvGJkVnZbKFHPj8B0n7SmNwLq7pEs/s1600/29064392_10155973152496328_2699302780757510585_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMoAM52_lyDQPMxAZ-6JzsVdR0PJboas5T2E2GWT9OyUO0UXxeZpJepiQzvpfF3Mz-tAHR5n0fIzxoz3Af2tqZlYETilAhcgYwMWgawQy3ZrjVOxUvGJkVnZbKFHPj8B0n7SmNwLq7pEs/s640/29064392_10155973152496328_2699302780757510585_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">And this summer I’m going to a Victorian weekend at sea on the island of Gotland. I’ve never done a</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">nything 19th century before, and it isn’t my favourite period. But a friend of mine talked it over and </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">came to the conclusion we really love the Pre-raphaelites and the Arts and Crafts Movement. So I’m </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;">currently working on an artistic late 19th-century wardrobe. And, of course, a bathing suit.</span></div>
Isishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09380497568603304818noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580595753456307919.post-57160393666334854032016-11-22T17:03:00.001+01:002016-11-22T17:03:52.849+01:00OMG, OMG, OMG, squee!<div dir="ltr" id="docs-internal-guid-ccdf54ce-8cb8-d04d-438b-e3a2b6218964" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Today I received this:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvhZiuY55LSa7jp6-LNBWtQ2lI9MPMIV7lKqoUOtF903Hg07qo86u2DwlrvHMZyelv5UQSB7K6l-GRcpb46zVrIipZKLi2_0azllsKwgEhtJch5U6NPzNoH4FvBJ5yC-GMp_OTlfcbkgo/s1600/15196095_10154184693168613_2727330310477768466_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvhZiuY55LSa7jp6-LNBWtQ2lI9MPMIV7lKqoUOtF903Hg07qo86u2DwlrvHMZyelv5UQSB7K6l-GRcpb46zVrIipZKLi2_0azllsKwgEhtJch5U6NPzNoH4FvBJ5yC-GMp_OTlfcbkgo/s400/15196095_10154184693168613_2727330310477768466_o.jpg" width="336" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">A friend in </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Czechia</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> told me about it earlier this year, and with her help got into contact with the university who had it published. You can’t buy it, but if you are researching historical clothes you can get it provided you send them postage. I wasn’t sure I would qualify, but clearly I did. There are a lot of pattern diagrams from the 16th- to the 18th century, for men, women, girls, horses(!), liturgical clothes and a few tents. The wool gown I made a few months ago comes from this book, and now I have so many things I want to make.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Like continuing on my late 17th/early 18th century wardrobe. I now have patterns for stays, riding habit and something I very much will look like the kind of loose nightgown you see on a lot of Swedish and Danish portraits from this period.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzYTRbURYE6rbANYMDt-17smyQD2GWybmvguoOrsVfZmhkRYfuTq32vu9T7OrY1ZvCZWBdOl6pgpnnbZsRw3VWa5GDzmdkit1JcQDw_5Uf49XTriz8rhg8lIM5P5lZuRz2T94JuMZQn3g/s1600/04VVQVa8JN.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzYTRbURYE6rbANYMDt-17smyQD2GWybmvguoOrsVfZmhkRYfuTq32vu9T7OrY1ZvCZWBdOl6pgpnnbZsRw3VWa5GDzmdkit1JcQDw_5Uf49XTriz8rhg8lIM5P5lZuRz2T94JuMZQn3g/s640/04VVQVa8JN.jpg" width="488" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://digitaltmuseum.se/011023346847?page=26&type_filter=Thing&owner_filter=S-NM&from_year=1600&to_year=1699&pos=604" target="_blank">Unknown Swedish woman, late 17th century</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK3X8C3EZj8WQarWejiHmrUZ2wkH6Tvy0VaMvo8RUJME1jUFEU_4BpfCON79uBWtcwoDo3RkbV4vABFpt66YFa-MqQgV0wYVWr4NSwRb6QozGJ2enu4cjKszAA4df1w8TFA8k2xGVP6HQ/s1600/012uPXGBv4v1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK3X8C3EZj8WQarWejiHmrUZ2wkH6Tvy0VaMvo8RUJME1jUFEU_4BpfCON79uBWtcwoDo3RkbV4vABFpt66YFa-MqQgV0wYVWr4NSwRb6QozGJ2enu4cjKszAA4df1w8TFA8k2xGVP6HQ/s640/012uPXGBv4v1.jpg" width="506" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://digitaltmuseum.se/021025828119" target="_blank">Elizabeth Faltz, Sweden, late 17th/early 18th century</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">My old pet-en-l’air which is too small, basically has the same fabric as this one, only the pattern is smaller. Doesn’t it just beg to be re-made into it?</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv8obGeFbCDR8WMTv05OHrMB-BP1FlhgCcV8D-iNe0zIB8Xh5rs8MFdPzgj9LpXHszIVpgC8Xo-F4C7dYbaEUaZjlgwjwO_bgUaBnsQvkWyZmUPakD-1t20uRj5TeWhNoctMFbfZHkmCo/s1600/IMG_2766.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv8obGeFbCDR8WMTv05OHrMB-BP1FlhgCcV8D-iNe0zIB8Xh5rs8MFdPzgj9LpXHszIVpgC8Xo-F4C7dYbaEUaZjlgwjwO_bgUaBnsQvkWyZmUPakD-1t20uRj5TeWhNoctMFbfZHkmCo/s640/IMG_2766.JPG" width="466" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/Borgerlige/Horsens%20Statsskole/Portraetsamling/slides/IMG_2766.html" target="_blank">Christiane Marie Foss, Denmark, 1700-1709</a></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDk5CPsfOzzIrgb1aatV0RB6kHUvaDOQdNRiylnaQlpDQr7IuuQKwHnqjbaR13VC7Q_foRHAmXV9rjwyp8coKfwAKpcFAkdqZzjlkQ_Xffw4KbC2Rt3Bp2nj1-DeEzhyIbAMV7CDXDHzc/s1600/381878_425147890872577_2122461024_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDk5CPsfOzzIrgb1aatV0RB6kHUvaDOQdNRiylnaQlpDQr7IuuQKwHnqjbaR13VC7Q_foRHAmXV9rjwyp8coKfwAKpcFAkdqZzjlkQ_Xffw4KbC2Rt3Bp2nj1-DeEzhyIbAMV7CDXDHzc/s640/381878_425147890872577_2122461024_n.jpg" width="544" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">I also strongly suspect that the riding habit I want to make will look very much like this one:</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyKNVBLPTqrZI79-tEstySWGUnQX2M8gPytEqpmapeSETNSTCTfLqP264tAtTGqnUriQNcZe9nC_O0Gxy3MtAMwQEiwgcRxgLIfDg5RVfxdTCy-2BEekLx7-d5hBYJyT_pb4k_Uu_Eh6A/s1600/Hedvig_Sofia%252C_1681-1708%252C_prinsessa_av_Sverige%252C_hertiginna_av_Holstein-Gottorp_-_Nationalmuseum_-_40368.tif.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="510" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyKNVBLPTqrZI79-tEstySWGUnQX2M8gPytEqpmapeSETNSTCTfLqP264tAtTGqnUriQNcZe9nC_O0Gxy3MtAMwQEiwgcRxgLIfDg5RVfxdTCy-2BEekLx7-d5hBYJyT_pb4k_Uu_Eh6A/s640/Hedvig_Sofia%252C_1681-1708%252C_prinsessa_av_Sverige%252C_hertiginna_av_Holstein-Gottorp_-_Nationalmuseum_-_40368.tif.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Hedvig_Sofia,_1681-1708,_prinsessa_av_Sverige,_hertiginna_av_Holstein-Gottorp_-_Nationalmuseum_-_40368.tif" target="_blank">Hedvig Sofia, Princess of Sweden by David Klöcker Ehrenstrahl</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> Also, there is the pattern for a riding habit from 1769 which includes the waistcoat. I haven’t seen an old pattern for that before.And, from the same year, patterns for two pair of stays, one which would look a lot like this one made up:</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVeTFeQ4oQX-SjY4thQs1cbL9uo0Ouk2zI02Zo4GvDIhdh3O0GUPfvrmiBwbYW1gm1DZUYcwDB7066aKkOZ-9PQPyi4nC7mfteybQpzfZIbXNRa7he6wT3E28awChnQtH2mgsuFuqu-iw/s1600/CI39.13.213ab_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVeTFeQ4oQX-SjY4thQs1cbL9uo0Ouk2zI02Zo4GvDIhdh3O0GUPfvrmiBwbYW1gm1DZUYcwDB7066aKkOZ-9PQPyi4nC7mfteybQpzfZIbXNRa7he6wT3E28awChnQtH2mgsuFuqu-iw/s640/CI39.13.213ab_F.jpg" width="410" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/90455?=&imgNo=0&tabName=related-objects" target="_blank">Late 18th century stays</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">You understand why I’m a bit incoherent of joy?</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Also, I found a gown which looks very much like my wool gown on a Swedish painting.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Karl_XI_konung_av_Sverige_med_familj_(David_Kl%C3%B6cker_Ehrenstrahl)_-_Nationalmuseum_-_14895.tif" target="_blank">Hedvig Sofia, Princess of Sweden, detail from a painting atributed to David Klöcker Ehrenstrahl, painted in 1697</a></td></tr>
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Isishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09380497568603304818noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580595753456307919.post-72284031145805727072016-08-31T16:04:00.000+02:002016-12-13T14:15:33.131+01:00Late 17th/early 18th century mantilla<div dir="ltr" id="docs-internal-guid-ee8e93e4-e0df-1895-1c19-6a88d1cc8b2a" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><b>What the item is</b>: A stole, or mantilla.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBwvl4K5J6HELEUiLta7MHbR3ps3u1Cjiv24iKbuAen1aIB_yBa1ympUMwVvIemIXZ3GbFjPYBsE2RzHpQft2ijr_38unh7cSq_5FelDW1UmGSd2R7zqG2cxOTMvKCE9PxUJ6CpdEpynw/s1600/a065.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBwvl4K5J6HELEUiLta7MHbR3ps3u1Cjiv24iKbuAen1aIB_yBa1ympUMwVvIemIXZ3GbFjPYBsE2RzHpQft2ijr_38unh7cSq_5FelDW1UmGSd2R7zqG2cxOTMvKCE9PxUJ6CpdEpynw/s640/a065.jpg" width="366" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">There are two extant examples of this kind of garment in Scandinavia One in Denmark and one in Sweden. Both are made of black silk gauze and embroidered white silk. It’s a shawl, there the front is elongated with an extra panel. From the front this makes it look like a gown when worn. Both the extant mantillas have a stomacher made of the white fabric. The Swedish one is dated to the 1690’s, the Danish one to 1695-1709(ish)</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nationalmuseum, Denmark</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVpScnTLLkc7zE-1hAquA2bUZcfFhuxuKgIvAnj9Aim1zT7X5y06kZbn_Zc9PZCci005qEuNa1wsTkXNgUGb2M3GP7nBFLwhlw8cvUSu33cj9K4v7gG2Gfry5nabbcTA5WnS9w4tfEnJo/s1600/1392155_387260558073493_1104839296_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVpScnTLLkc7zE-1hAquA2bUZcfFhuxuKgIvAnj9Aim1zT7X5y06kZbn_Zc9PZCci005qEuNa1wsTkXNgUGb2M3GP7nBFLwhlw8cvUSu33cj9K4v7gG2Gfry5nabbcTA5WnS9w4tfEnJo/s400/1392155_387260558073493_1104839296_o.jpg" width="290" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nordiska museet, Sweden</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">I’ve found very little information about this kind of garment. Ellen Andersen writes that this type of garment originated from Spain, and has been known since the late 16th century. In France it became popular in the 1720’s. Garsault mentions it in 1769, when he talks about how a lady should dress for court presentation: </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">If the Lady to be presented is not able to endure the heavily boned bodice [of a robe de cour] then she is allowed to wear a lighter one, covered with a mantilla, with the court train and petticoat. As the mantilla covers the upper arm the top lace flounce, which would not be seen, is omitted. The mantilla is made from any light material such as gauze, net, lace, etc.</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">I strongly suspect the boundaries between the kind of mantilla I have made, and one which is just a plain shawl, is very hazy. I have only found one painting where I’m almost sure the lady is wearing a mantilla. Christina Brodersonia, Carl Linneaus mother:</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.wikitree.com/photo/jpg/Brodersonia-1" target="_blank">Source Linnè Hammarby, Sweden</a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">It drapes the right way, but it may, of course, only be a shawl. There is certainly not difficult to find paintings of 18th century women wearing shawls. Most of them only show the upper half of the body.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">It seems to me that this must be a versatile garment. It’s a lightweight wrap and worn over just stays and petticoats it must have been a good alternative for a hot day. It must also have been quite practical to wear during pregnancies. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><b>The Challenge:</b> Monochrome</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><b>Fabric:</b> White silk brocade. Black silk habotai. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><b>Pattern:</b> I used the pattern in <i>Danske Dragter</i> , though adapting it to fit my own body. I aimed to keep the ratio between measurements the same as in the original pattern. In retrospect I could have cut the black silk shorter, but it still works. I omitted the stomacher as I realised I had enough brocade left to make a pair of stays, if I did so.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><b>Year:</b> 1695-1709, but can probably be stretched a bit further into the 18th century.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><b>Notions:</b> Silver lace and white sewing silk. I cut the lace down the middle to make it go further. Silk ribbons to bind the seams in.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><b>How historically accurate is it?</b> The pattern is made after an original garment. However, the original was made of white embroidered silk and black silk gauze. So I would say about 80%.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><b>Hours to complete:</b> I cut it all out just before Midsummer. It’s completely hand sewn and I have been sewing all summer, but I have no idea how many hours it took.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><b>First worn:</b> For these photos. I apologize for wearing a pair of 1780’s stays. All my other stays are in the attic, and I was feeling lazy. Period accurate makeup; pearl powder, burnt clove for the eyebrows and lip pomade coloured with alkanet. Reproduction earrings from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/se-en/shop/damesalamode" target="_blank">Dames a la Mode</a>. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Total cost: 1045 Euro. One yard silk habotai: 13 Euro. Three yards of silk brocade: 60 Euro (but I will get a pair of stays out of it too). Fourteen yards of silver lace: 40 Euro. 18 yards of habotai silk ribbon: 32 Euro. Thread from my stash.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><b>Sources</b>: Andersen, Ellen, <i>Danske Dragter: Moden i 1700-årene</i>, Nationalmuseet, 1977</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Brown, Carolina, <i>Mode: klädedräktens historia genom fem sekler</i>, Rabén & Sjögren, 1991</span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Waugh, Nora, </span><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><i>The Cut of Women's Clothes, 1600-1930</i>, </span><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Routledge, 1984</span></span>Isishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09380497568603304818noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580595753456307919.post-84469874628228574662016-07-25T07:12:00.003+02:002016-07-25T09:53:31.696+02:00HSF 2016 Travels: Wool gown, 1680-1712<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">I have finished a gown! And for once it also fitted into </span><a href="http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-monthly-2016/" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #1a0dab; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline;">The Historical Sew Monthly</span></a><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">!</span></b><br />
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<b style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><strong>The Challenge:</strong> Travels. </span></b></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The pattern for this gown came to my attention thanks to a friend in Czechia. It was part of a small collection of pattern diagrams published there in 1712 and called “Swedish court clothes”. They are not, however, particularly fancy clothes, and the fabric notes indicates wool for all the garments except for a pair of stays. In the early 18th century, king Karl XII of Sweden and his army were, if not actually in present Czechia, not all that far north from it. Even if a king at war didn’t have a sumptuous court, there were still a number of aristocratic ladies travelling their officer husbands, so there was some kind of travelling court. My guess is that these clothes, which seems quite useful for travelling, came from that court. And the pattern themselves have done a bit of travelling.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><strong>Fabric</strong>: Double sided wool, striped in grey/blue/brown on one side, black on the other. Brown linen for lining.</span></div>
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<b style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><strong>Pattern:</strong> I adapted my basic 18th century bodice and sleeve pattern while trying to keep to the proportions of the original pattern diagram. The skirt is made of four half trapezoid pattern pieces. The skirt was drafted directly onto the fabric, using the same angles as the pattern diagram.</span></b></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><strong>Year:</strong> 1690-1712</span></div>
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<b style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><strong>Notions:</strong> Gold braid. Sewing silk in black, brown, blue and pale gold. Grosgrain ribbon in pale blue rayon. Antique paste belt buckle. </span></span></b></div>
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<b style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><strong>How historically accurate is it?</strong> I would say 75 %. The pattern is based on original sources, but due to fabric shortage I had to do a few changes on the skirt. The original skirt length was the back bodice length multiplied with three, which would have given the skirt a longer trail. The measurements of the skirt was double the waist measurement, but the front has much less fabric, I’m sorry to say. I sew it all together on machine, but all other seams were made by hand.</span></span></b></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The gown turned out too big, partly because I’ve lost weight, but probably also because wool is stretchy. Even if I’m quite pleased with it, I’ll need to do some changes for a better fit. I also need to drape up the skirt more toward the back when I wear it. The fontange cap was made after a self drafted pattern,<a href="http://pyracy.com/index.php?/topic/15155-how-to-make-a-late-17th-century-fontangefontage/" target="_blank"> using these instructions</a>. I thought it was too narrow on top, but it looked fine when I actually wore it. I used fine linen and remnants of lace my grandmother made. I need to purchase lace for the lapels and add a bow on the back. I also made a first try for the proper hairstyle and I Think it turned out ok. Not as high as I wanted it, but I merely worked with curled hair. Next time I'll see what pomade and powder can do.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlCct6u4L7NQo9n19-AKzpFiFxn9_zAJmKvFwE1c8lNKJkgllU2-jFBd7NsN54dc0UtIF_Z6mBBI5MroTnelW319I1Td2Rt7unwQbkAZug392M4wFIpfWjGwwGYSMxL-P98RW9Q7upTHc/s1600/aIMG_2129.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlCct6u4L7NQo9n19-AKzpFiFxn9_zAJmKvFwE1c8lNKJkgllU2-jFBd7NsN54dc0UtIF_Z6mBBI5MroTnelW319I1Td2Rt7unwQbkAZug392M4wFIpfWjGwwGYSMxL-P98RW9Q7upTHc/s640/aIMG_2129.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<b style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><strong>Hours to complete</strong>: Cant’s say. The cutting, fitting and sewing it all together took about five hours. Then came all that hand sewing.</span></b></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><strong>First worn:</strong> Yesterday at an 18th century picknick.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><strong>Total cost:</strong> 4 meter of wool fabric; 77 Euro. Belt buckle; 7 Euro. 4 meter of gold braid; 23 Euro. The brown linen was the gift from an aunt and originally purchased in the 1980’s. The grosgrain ribbon and the silk thread was inherited from my grandmother. So I guess the total cost would be 110-115 Euro.</span></div>
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<span id="docs-internal-guid-a0caf43c-2064-e7d8-3820-642eb28fbf6c" style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">This kind of gown can be seen on paintings and fashion plates in the late 17th/early 18th century. Though the skirt is slit and draped the same way as a mantua, the bodice is smooth and not fitted with the help of pleats.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYoXXNcl68XY8P9jpPIe1vHIUVAX0t7d9QMnywO8hyn5-1AnYcH_YgR9oSKUpQ_z3u1o8Tp8NUXd35S2b8swGZHsIhOFDcwYP9C0-ueEi0nevzMwXgBbpC6vwC1I2q5wsz3P6AQ2OZfCM/s1600/1684-anne-marie-dorleans-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYoXXNcl68XY8P9jpPIe1vHIUVAX0t7d9QMnywO8hyn5-1AnYcH_YgR9oSKUpQ_z3u1o8Tp8NUXd35S2b8swGZHsIhOFDcwYP9C0-ueEi0nevzMwXgBbpC6vwC1I2q5wsz3P6AQ2OZfCM/s640/1684-anne-marie-dorleans-3.jpg" width="413" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.gogmsite.net/end_of_the_era_-_1684_to_17/subalbum_anna_maria_of_orle/1684-anne-marie-dorleans-wh.html#previous-photo" target="_blank">Anne Marie d'Orléans while Duchess of Savoy by L. Mariette, 1684</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.gogmsite.net/casual_dress_-_1641_to_1683/1695AnnedeSouvremarquisedeLouvois1646-1715bySimonDequoyVersailles.html" target="_blank">Anne de Souvré, marquise de Louvois (1646-1715) by Simon Dequoy, 1695</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwjaHrjPtGkmakGtcF6koKacsZJQS1wSHK751Aa_a1Cf4F8Zumr7G5HMyRde-fsj8Sm3G0D8t88jXewwcgdZe2N6eJz2otY4FschGLJcvrY7nLWGKvfQ8gDminjCMVr6D3Q5DN6K57tgs/s1600/2016-06-20-penny-dreadful.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwjaHrjPtGkmakGtcF6koKacsZJQS1wSHK751Aa_a1Cf4F8Zumr7G5HMyRde-fsj8Sm3G0D8t88jXewwcgdZe2N6eJz2otY4FschGLJcvrY7nLWGKvfQ8gDminjCMVr6D3Q5DN6K57tgs/s640/2016-06-20-penny-dreadful.jpg" width="488" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://digitaltmuseum.se/011023454874?to_year=1699&page=2&query=Kvinna&from_year=1600&rows=24&js=1&pos=27&count=40&search_context=1&sort_by" target="_blank">Anonymous portrait, 1680-1700, Nordiska museet</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-QT40QNCKoNtHW3BD88z_fw1Pk2CYoMAFBRMC8aojxKRfJp6GXAl5TFcmuvtJ01xr72DFB_st9UHY3zXtd_x5LqVW4KpyBDGqR5Hi-K_mC-5LS5A47urGohUNOBtOZiGM-i-VwVNYdkY/s1600/ma-31866970.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-QT40QNCKoNtHW3BD88z_fw1Pk2CYoMAFBRMC8aojxKRfJp6GXAl5TFcmuvtJ01xr72DFB_st9UHY3zXtd_x5LqVW4KpyBDGqR5Hi-K_mC-5LS5A47urGohUNOBtOZiGM-i-VwVNYdkY/s640/ma-31866970.jpg" width="456" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://collections.lacma.org/node/208065" target="_blank">Recueil des modes de la cour de France, 'Fille de qualité', 1680</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyj5nfKDHN6D2uKhi3dY-CmUXeccqCtPuUw-cAzn22pycHaSEMHatF4NWwhmzgiNXrlW8PQ6kbbTXHweqzMLAas_qKfK0cLSSi34-OpQOO16VTl6A26qA98YE8FkVL3YUbMKv4R1euKAI/s1600/AN00566119_001_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyj5nfKDHN6D2uKhi3dY-CmUXeccqCtPuUw-cAzn22pycHaSEMHatF4NWwhmzgiNXrlW8PQ6kbbTXHweqzMLAas_qKfK0cLSSi34-OpQOO16VTl6A26qA98YE8FkVL3YUbMKv4R1euKAI/s640/AN00566119_001_l.jpg" width="428" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.britishmuseum.org/research/collection_online/collection_object_details.aspx?objectId=3061973&partId=1&searchText=The+Cryes+of+the+City+of+London+Drawne+after+the+Life+&&&&&&&&&&&&&people=&place=&from=ad&fromDate=&to=ad&toDate=&object=&subject=&matcult=&technique=&school=&material=&ethname=&ware=&escape=&bibliography=&citation=&museumno=&catalogueOnly=&view=&page=1" target="_blank">The Cryes of the City of London Drawne after the Life: Fair Lemons & Oranges, 1688</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUXJdGxPJcvyT6VWLYkUyUzBMD-ggUdSnEdUG3rt8XadUMiVu1_SvkCdrGMoQRc9-ytyJqbknSTmCZKcnjlwsd5q2r3CPnUYTua5DvaMfoH4l0gxjxzdWMnFWznFLb1zdvz9JOEZ-pEI8/s1600/AN00566213_001_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUXJdGxPJcvyT6VWLYkUyUzBMD-ggUdSnEdUG3rt8XadUMiVu1_SvkCdrGMoQRc9-ytyJqbknSTmCZKcnjlwsd5q2r3CPnUYTua5DvaMfoH4l0gxjxzdWMnFWznFLb1zdvz9JOEZ-pEI8/s640/AN00566213_001_l.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.britishmuseum.org/research/collection_online/collection_object_details.aspx?objectId=3062135&partId=1&searchText=The+Cryes+of+the+City+of+London+Drawne+after+the+Life+&&&&&&&&&&&&&people=&place=&from=ad&fromDate=&to=ad&toDate=&object=&subject=&matcult=&technique=&school=&material=&ethname=&ware=&escape=&bibliography=&citation=&museumno=&catalogueOnly=&view=&page=1" target="_blank">The Cryes of the City of London Drawne after the Life: Crab crab any crab, 1688</a></td></tr>
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<br />Isishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09380497568603304818noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580595753456307919.post-32694088870737638702016-04-22T19:18:00.003+02:002016-04-23T15:34:25.728+02:00The HSM 2016: Challenge # 5: Holes<b style="font-weight: normal;"></b><br />
<div dir="ltr" id="docs-internal-guid-536a8af8-3ece-0a14-c00a-bce99f665d8d" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.66px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The fifth Historical Sew Monthly challenge is due May 31. The theme is holes and, of course technically, all clothes have holes, at least as soon as you go from a piece of material wrapped or draped around the body to a sewn garment. You simply cannot get into a garment if there isn’t openings in it. But holes can also serve a dual purpose combining utility with decoration. Or they can be there simply as an ornament. They can be punched and cut, the can form a circle or a slit or any other shape. There can even be more open space than material in a garment. I hope this post with a small sample of all kinds of holes will provide some inspiration.</span></b></div>
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<br /><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.66px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Functional holes for lacing a bodice in blue glazed cotton, 1775-1800.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://digitaltmuseum.se/011023078815?from_year=1600&pos=178&page=8&name=Livstycke&rows=24&count=202&search_context=1&sort_by=&to_year=1799">Digitalt museum</a></td></tr>
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<b style="font-weight: normal;"></b></b><div dir="ltr" id="docs-internal-guid-536a8af8-3ed1-2b67-599d-9faff735feb8" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><b style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.66px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Holes necessary for adjusting the size of a corset.</span></b></b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh7ErtI52bOaHF8kl0FjomrKy5Pw3USARVfpAWCQBkYGAtYgPaFeZCIHtQ2oIpH-KmEe9iAy3n3YzOgAbHu7PLy7UI7PTJ4wjDmvbl8BQDOyNdkXJn_UPrJ4Q3DiHmg5vPdYNE_wwcCnY/s1600/2010EE7907_jpg_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh7ErtI52bOaHF8kl0FjomrKy5Pw3USARVfpAWCQBkYGAtYgPaFeZCIHtQ2oIpH-KmEe9iAy3n3YzOgAbHu7PLy7UI7PTJ4wjDmvbl8BQDOyNdkXJn_UPrJ4Q3DiHmg5vPdYNE_wwcCnY/s1600/2010EE7907_jpg_l.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O355208/corset-unknown/">Corset 1875-99, V&A</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.66px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><br /></span></div>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.66px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The buttonholes on this coat, dated to 1725-50, are both functional and decorative.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.66px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMnsPTGwT91kBccZqcgs6gvNnexMGKz60mDZTE6t7IYJjXkapDwAej25IhJpQMVtssX_QXLPMiR1Bol6RVXOM7YNTed2NuCyHcRDXBxVBfPDiqCqDbk4Pr0SRFOrDdIhCZqTzgPMnDBSc/s1600/C_I_62_27a%25E2%2580%2593c_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMnsPTGwT91kBccZqcgs6gvNnexMGKz60mDZTE6t7IYJjXkapDwAej25IhJpQMVtssX_QXLPMiR1Bol6RVXOM7YNTed2NuCyHcRDXBxVBfPDiqCqDbk4Pr0SRFOrDdIhCZqTzgPMnDBSc/s1600/C_I_62_27a%25E2%2580%2593c_F.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/84428?rpp=20&pg=7&ft=*&deptids=8&when=A.D.+1600-1800&img=1">Metropolitan Museum of Art</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.66px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><br /></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.66px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">A sideless gown where the necessity of arm holes also becomes a way to show off the garment underneath.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.66px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMqaQvFb9vWl6TdZE3u5Jt0Jp8-jAYB4gRO8uvjsX8VarfN01AbqLurLTKRqM3TpblowVzj0k9M1mOaxUaChGOtEYla8rQ7_GTmgwtsJax5gTZzJzgC7Cz_QyNbvO9pdL12vBlbZ9WECg/s1600/Grandes_Heures_Anne_de_Bretagne_SainteCatherine_203v.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMqaQvFb9vWl6TdZE3u5Jt0Jp8-jAYB4gRO8uvjsX8VarfN01AbqLurLTKRqM3TpblowVzj0k9M1mOaxUaChGOtEYla8rQ7_GTmgwtsJax5gTZzJzgC7Cz_QyNbvO9pdL12vBlbZ9WECg/s640/Grandes_Heures_Anne_de_Bretagne_SainteCatherine_203v.jpg" width="403" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Grandes_Heures_Anne_de_Bretagne_SainteCatherine_203v.jpg">From Grandes Heures of Anne of Brittany, 1603-08. Wikimedia Commons</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.66px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Gown by Lanvin from 1938 where the neckline that also provides a design element.</span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh23VpjY9V9C0TVqVp0G5nsnW0nuYoHB41dNEKHhK4s7aYgRO8ihMkx3GVktSeJlMSvKO5D_hvlDRNzYoSnCTBzKpn0U0STBr4z1TBGL_x4-SPpLqsnAcZH2p_RlF4fsic5lU7USO3nub8/s1600/65_14_1_Design_scan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh23VpjY9V9C0TVqVp0G5nsnW0nuYoHB41dNEKHhK4s7aYgRO8ihMkx3GVktSeJlMSvKO5D_hvlDRNzYoSnCTBzKpn0U0STBr4z1TBGL_x4-SPpLqsnAcZH2p_RlF4fsic5lU7USO3nub8/s1600/65_14_1_Design_scan.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/158521?sortBy=Relevance&deptids=8&ft=openings&pg=9&rpp=20&pos=170">Metropolitan Museum of Art</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.66px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The more holes in a bathing suit, the more places to get a lovely tan.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjudKOxHDl8LqWlIwtOCoUb0WWnuZRshI3hRBODnI4ZBNxq5oOXV9BQXkiQ8LU2vJEMclwIUxPc7eJCTEtYaUolXRgYyknMOADO7ZDF5OJjh6J1RpU6lx6YWoQqDHAuLnemMFLozEwPzNs/s1600/2006_153a%25E2%2580%2593c_B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjudKOxHDl8LqWlIwtOCoUb0WWnuZRshI3hRBODnI4ZBNxq5oOXV9BQXkiQ8LU2vJEMclwIUxPc7eJCTEtYaUolXRgYyknMOADO7ZDF5OJjh6J1RpU6lx6YWoQqDHAuLnemMFLozEwPzNs/s1600/2006_153a%25E2%2580%2593c_B.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/130735?sortBy=Relevance&deptids=8&ft=bathing+suit&pg=4&rpp=20&pos=68">1920s bathing suit, back view. Metropolitan Museum of Art</a></td></tr>
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<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<br /><br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.66px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Red doublet with decorative slits and a row of lacing holes to keep the breeches attached.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBxEm-NBoHK-6k8T3TVhV6qBJMwd7rLjX0HimV1H-NE8nNIMgm_g4W0ioJhUPiIHOjNnEYa25vaG283dru5EJjBCosvOMOMELD652ez-2SJA0wKxmngCvFjtXBcUzBOYcKvZ2oLnawGT8/s1600/eMuseumPlusLZZZOY7U.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBxEm-NBoHK-6k8T3TVhV6qBJMwd7rLjX0HimV1H-NE8nNIMgm_g4W0ioJhUPiIHOjNnEYa25vaG283dru5EJjBCosvOMOMELD652ez-2SJA0wKxmngCvFjtXBcUzBOYcKvZ2oLnawGT8/s1600/eMuseumPlusLZZZOY7U.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://emuseumplus.lsh.se/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=67985&viewType=detailView">Wool doublet worn by Gustaf II Adolf of Sweden, 1620s. Livrustkammaren</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.66px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">A child’s bodice from the early 17th century where the open sleeves are tied with ribbons to form decorative slits.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIF6FJIuXPMlwJYTtVwTcaUpM0biW_darcJ1ke_rn0uc8A1rArzEV5wn9sNCXeYHvdIxHOg1GhFZygtlhyeaG9d0Nl-l2lCuuMAhv2YtGmDVux4d_kkRrai1tOU7_NuzP6izowBmTNxxQ/s1600/NM.0002187.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="445" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIF6FJIuXPMlwJYTtVwTcaUpM0biW_darcJ1ke_rn0uc8A1rArzEV5wn9sNCXeYHvdIxHOg1GhFZygtlhyeaG9d0Nl-l2lCuuMAhv2YtGmDVux4d_kkRrai1tOU7_NuzP6izowBmTNxxQ/s640/NM.0002187.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://digitaltmuseum.se/011023079998?search_context=1&pos=0&query=0002187&count=1">Digitalt museum</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.66px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Yellow silk dress from 1819 with decorative slits on the sleeveheads.</span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNUAbn0ySHpM9ariWXoF0rGqDiGI5zGnsMmZ4GlfyzdGom4_jmb9r7_lAM86S20vFp41H9IO9R2t2-a-VMvYhilm3kCMHon86rM6bfLZIGCgZgMMNG8Ik15MDb5fThQs5VcTDjDUh2Fgw/s1600/2015HK2719_jpg_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNUAbn0ySHpM9ariWXoF0rGqDiGI5zGnsMmZ4GlfyzdGom4_jmb9r7_lAM86S20vFp41H9IO9R2t2-a-VMvYhilm3kCMHon86rM6bfLZIGCgZgMMNG8Ik15MDb5fThQs5VcTDjDUh2Fgw/s1600/2015HK2719_jpg_l.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O114711/dress-unknown/">Back view. V&A</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<br /><br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.66px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Red evening gown, c 1934 with the traditional lacing converted into a design element.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMb16LjabNDgwkm1KW1vR7ZVFOqOy8J7MLutBerXMqVP9Bf1kohmjjYF2_RJjtJxQ3Ge5a8vOd7Df6u5KLu9qghic7qGkv8W-7c04Yy10h1codyIt4F2Fln0K5UKcoOu0kMOIoweLIjLU/s1600/ci1995_245_1_R.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMb16LjabNDgwkm1KW1vR7ZVFOqOy8J7MLutBerXMqVP9Bf1kohmjjYF2_RJjtJxQ3Ge5a8vOd7Df6u5KLu9qghic7qGkv8W-7c04Yy10h1codyIt4F2Fln0K5UKcoOu0kMOIoweLIjLU/s1600/ci1995_245_1_R.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/79142">Metropolitan Museum of Art</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.66px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Full length sleeveless negligée in pink silk satin from the 1930’s.</span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihHEb942ckOAIPD9Uxj-oZ60f6JKzJts37jAc7IqVMDnQHqD7jN7T1hwWEapQLlnNgn7D-wd_HURMp-7cBnry7mNg9W467pEkBDjzz2lIWbRA5GneOg9Qcll_2sz0EygnZ0qB0kyR19iY/s1600/2010EE7835_jpg_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihHEb942ckOAIPD9Uxj-oZ60f6JKzJts37jAc7IqVMDnQHqD7jN7T1hwWEapQLlnNgn7D-wd_HURMp-7cBnry7mNg9W467pEkBDjzz2lIWbRA5GneOg9Qcll_2sz0EygnZ0qB0kyR19iY/s1600/2010EE7835_jpg_l.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O144952/dressing-gown-unknown/">V&A</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.66px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">We wouldn’t have lace if there wasn’t any holes...</span></div>
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<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.66px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">A woman’s waistcoat in drawn and pulled threadwork, 1630-39.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWhlPZhx1qQdCv4OH4ZQNCIxQ9wLE63C_e0tiDex3ZKCwyNL3VD029ynp1-Kw_AguOpk1SUTzUi9pLmt7N57NcKQ9miC0Oig8vH-QuCN8xwDVPS-gh3doKcpwxly4zlMJ-SlrTSYhY3xM/s1600/2012FT8266_jpg_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWhlPZhx1qQdCv4OH4ZQNCIxQ9wLE63C_e0tiDex3ZKCwyNL3VD029ynp1-Kw_AguOpk1SUTzUi9pLmt7N57NcKQ9miC0Oig8vH-QuCN8xwDVPS-gh3doKcpwxly4zlMJ-SlrTSYhY3xM/s1600/2012FT8266_jpg_l.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O130595/waistcoat-unknown/">V&A</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.66px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">17th century collar in drawn lacework.</span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuYkKiCsnBQNK4qwqWNFbPmgS7aaEK6CCdDGtzZVIESei4Jwg09CQxR9JyH0cR0SEr3LdinBeyZn_NMBsAL_qTy-QbvvXB8jPRU6C8LLxyjgdKs4Pb-h3mSVQ28FM1fNXxTREHAjCJJKc/s1600/eMuseumPlus6D3WM8CT.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuYkKiCsnBQNK4qwqWNFbPmgS7aaEK6CCdDGtzZVIESei4Jwg09CQxR9JyH0cR0SEr3LdinBeyZn_NMBsAL_qTy-QbvvXB8jPRU6C8LLxyjgdKs4Pb-h3mSVQ28FM1fNXxTREHAjCJJKc/s1600/eMuseumPlus6D3WM8CT.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://emuseumplus.lsh.se/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=67771&viewType=detailView">Livrustkammaren</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.66px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Cotton lace cap from 1829</span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0DHGADMuhtElC7iiuTzAU31XQBMxE-ctDEOQQPzY8V8eFzLi-o5CZv3DeVJEAoqO_wZ-H-h3s6lht3eet_VWMOEWzFCci1REqtUUd50IE81NwfpVUxWfvlVN0MqbFreGPIDY65nFMYyg/s1600/64_181_CP4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0DHGADMuhtElC7iiuTzAU31XQBMxE-ctDEOQQPzY8V8eFzLi-o5CZv3DeVJEAoqO_wZ-H-h3s6lht3eet_VWMOEWzFCci1REqtUUd50IE81NwfpVUxWfvlVN0MqbFreGPIDY65nFMYyg/s640/64_181_CP4.jpg" width="632" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/157741?sortBy=Relevance&deptids=8&ft=net&pg=2&rpp=20&pos=22">Metropolitan Museum of Art</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.66px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Linen petticoat with eyelet embroidery, 1860-65</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUyiXl-dxaB19F12Q7oWI9LbMM2DSSsdHkArMYzCDYY2-2rUVSqwHNSmi87mV3TXd_oy-ePenaWi5wGq1tMByzFJKRzaf2X_sPN0FwQ7B8PbPhIR4TbScuyGXasgkaHgfKbpGVSTTasT0/s640/57_32_2_CP4.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="522" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/158085?sortBy=Relevance&deptids=8&ft=hole&pg=1&rpp=20&pos=2">Metropolitan Museum of Art</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.66px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Bobbin lace bodice front, 1865-75.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3nB-hOEq9bb51B7jgDk7tZxkFkoEhY4hEFU5fL1cUdskj-xC54nbL-XE0_oQ0WJbOMWgriWkgJABjH6VpkBwK39CxJwM5e_Y9yqHYYhGC8Bslf9uYiG763G1C5p1oTPo4IQe93kNX4FA/s1600/2006AH1290_jpg_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3nB-hOEq9bb51B7jgDk7tZxkFkoEhY4hEFU5fL1cUdskj-xC54nbL-XE0_oQ0WJbOMWgriWkgJABjH6VpkBwK39CxJwM5e_Y9yqHYYhGC8Bslf9uYiG763G1C5p1oTPo4IQe93kNX4FA/s1600/2006AH1290_jpg_l.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O89161/bodice-front-lester-thomas/">V&A</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.66px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">And let's not forget shoes, that can provide many variations of both functional and decorative holes.</span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVTHiJ5zV-B5HEmmNG7-kFXm6EsDMlVhnxzEp-4K8F4Ey6oc_ryAswrWQvNWOkSH-VWfwa-nd3BpSlC4CCC6XdJ7FhDzW9FknCuuPWqhuFd1B52a5ol9hmgU41vfrsJT8HP5K7ycDSyxg/s1600/eMuseumPlus1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVTHiJ5zV-B5HEmmNG7-kFXm6EsDMlVhnxzEp-4K8F4Ey6oc_ryAswrWQvNWOkSH-VWfwa-nd3BpSlC4CCC6XdJ7FhDzW9FknCuuPWqhuFd1B52a5ol9hmgU41vfrsJT8HP5K7ycDSyxg/s1600/eMuseumPlus1.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://emuseumplus.lsh.se/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=33052&viewType=detailView">Chopines, 17th century. Livrustkammaren</a></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKlHh_OuOltdsvA_Sd7FtwbbOr3mmNr6LmZCxj60GA3DXkKPq9erqJsai0Z3HU864xxfhM8YE0rmPMsleE4lk48vTWnFAWc_hp0i2Z8wAr-Ps65lWGlKctDrdjBuSKqHc5gVFV-lYL-2U/s1600/eMuseumPlus.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKlHh_OuOltdsvA_Sd7FtwbbOr3mmNr6LmZCxj60GA3DXkKPq9erqJsai0Z3HU864xxfhM8YE0rmPMsleE4lk48vTWnFAWc_hp0i2Z8wAr-Ps65lWGlKctDrdjBuSKqHc5gVFV-lYL-2U/s1600/eMuseumPlus.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://emuseumplus.lsh.se/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=33053&viewType=detailView">A woman's silk shoe, 17th century. Livrustkammaren</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKjiEw0FiKjXuzFM72XgR_S4GRC2YcOFf7PFk8mDK9K3eYcUdAmu47BmGJptR4DZWqKQJUzsS7kaXeLujmPjs4WcZJk8ZKWYUySj5NUuhYyT7ma4t0fnoB5eqgOakZiBNrIJH8eb02nJQ/s1600/2012FF1735_jpg_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKjiEw0FiKjXuzFM72XgR_S4GRC2YcOFf7PFk8mDK9K3eYcUdAmu47BmGJptR4DZWqKQJUzsS7kaXeLujmPjs4WcZJk8ZKWYUySj5NUuhYyT7ma4t0fnoB5eqgOakZiBNrIJH8eb02nJQ/s1600/2012FF1735_jpg_l.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O118153/pair-of-boots-unknown/">Boots, 1920s. V&A</a></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD9yMPTvNhYY4ML76FwfcmeVdcDShFEOEG703eNOx62dtEQOkBQx4UWyJRP5FrHFNmnUcZmjLHUQmLrCaCTlMFhA3S_YfZOxyYSmmb-25bY0DEBWw9LvAftNhTrGK4mpByvHDHnlHWN8w/s1600/NM.0285981A-B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="501" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD9yMPTvNhYY4ML76FwfcmeVdcDShFEOEG703eNOx62dtEQOkBQx4UWyJRP5FrHFNmnUcZmjLHUQmLrCaCTlMFhA3S_YfZOxyYSmmb-25bY0DEBWw9LvAftNhTrGK4mpByvHDHnlHWN8w/s640/NM.0285981A-B.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://digitaltmuseum.se/011023791060?query=sko&from_year=1850&to_year=1936&pos=10">1930s shoes</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.66px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><br /></span></b></b><br />Isishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09380497568603304818noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580595753456307919.post-42422956635700895722016-04-09T14:15:00.001+02:002016-04-09T14:15:30.070+02:00Scandinavian gowns in the late 17th and early 18th century.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><b style="font-weight: normal;"><b style="font-weight: normal;"></b></b><br />
<div align="left" dir="ltr" id="docs-internal-guid-6befc05b-fada-8297-6e0e-b03904428255" style="line-height: 1.44; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><b style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The more I dig into fashion history, the more interested I get in what was actually worn here, in Sweden, where I live. It’s not altogether easy to find information about that. So I have been very happy in diffing into a Danish website:<a href="http://livinghistory.dk/"> </a></span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/">Dragter på epitafier og gravsten i Danmark</a> (Costumes on epitaphs and tombs in Denmark). There are even a few from germany and more than a few from Swedish churches, dated from the 16th century to the 18th. So far I have only dug into the paintings and they are a wonderful source to what well to do, but not necessarily aristocratic, women wore in Denmark and Sweden. Here are a few from the late 17th-early 18th century, showing some really nice mantuas, caps and hairstyles.</span></b></b><br />
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<b style="font-weight: normal;"><b style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Click on the links for more pictures.</span></b></b><br />
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><b style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><br /></span></b></b><br />
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><b style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Two great fontange caps.</span></b></b><br />
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<img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG5g4vOPOxd4QgQ4aXxXDAAUZi1m6skII0pl5Dv9rtij_mojqlnwg9kxTXg6zW75ZljM37LSaDke-GrC0l_L3AFxOZcA1HXYJE_mNtXjqkXc9cISpn8_evfEbq11GZMSc8ABtRSfPOJiY/s640/PICT2703.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="417" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/Borgerlige/Toender%20kirke/Lucas%20Ambders/slides/PICT2703.html">Anonymous lady by Lucas Ambders, 1685</a></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHMMQVm9QXCs9Q0-PIOnK7mROY1t04vT40ga9Ofq61Eb3sphldeIBRnNMMbDgiqwm_EeNt74s12OFuG8fDRq2SL3RMj5Df6wqDzhlTvMwZoKWzOKMQlCQ2oQQdeiAzZG752-hIu05o4ik/s1600/PICT2726.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHMMQVm9QXCs9Q0-PIOnK7mROY1t04vT40ga9Ofq61Eb3sphldeIBRnNMMbDgiqwm_EeNt74s12OFuG8fDRq2SL3RMj5Df6wqDzhlTvMwZoKWzOKMQlCQ2oQQdeiAzZG752-hIu05o4ik/s640/PICT2726.jpg" width="448" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/Borgerlige/Toender%20kirke/Necolaus%20Tych/slides/PICT2726.html">Anonymous lady by Necolaus Tych, 1695 </a></td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="border-image: none; clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span id="docs-internal-guid-03c1fadb-cd67-4221-8742-53136e710590" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.66px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">I love, love, love these mantuas. The different patterns on mantua, petticoat and stomacher on the mother, the play with the stripes on the daughter's gowns.</span></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPpfptlRt27jPzxVYjVHGN2RLy_Dj8fbAOSShpQ23idN67d_WwHmAAmf0NSAPerXYL-jx51nMEdRFsnmqSNKI1o892UEY4FP9AdLEVegEEhrktb6gZ5mP54bP6-SKF9pKqWs53lOnC8Ms/s1600/PICT0005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPpfptlRt27jPzxVYjVHGN2RLy_Dj8fbAOSShpQ23idN67d_WwHmAAmf0NSAPerXYL-jx51nMEdRFsnmqSNKI1o892UEY4FP9AdLEVegEEhrktb6gZ5mP54bP6-SKF9pKqWs53lOnC8Ms/s1600/PICT0005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPpfptlRt27jPzxVYjVHGN2RLy_Dj8fbAOSShpQ23idN67d_WwHmAAmf0NSAPerXYL-jx51nMEdRFsnmqSNKI1o892UEY4FP9AdLEVegEEhrktb6gZ5mP54bP6-SKF9pKqWs53lOnC8Ms/s1600/PICT0005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="492" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPpfptlRt27jPzxVYjVHGN2RLy_Dj8fbAOSShpQ23idN67d_WwHmAAmf0NSAPerXYL-jx51nMEdRFsnmqSNKI1o892UEY4FP9AdLEVegEEhrktb6gZ5mP54bP6-SKF9pKqWs53lOnC8Ms/s640/PICT0005.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/Borgerlige/Svendborg%20Sct%20Nicolai%20kirke/Peder%20Lucoppidan/index.html">Peder Jensen Lucoppidan and Anna Christine Jørgensdatter with their children. Svendborg Sct Nicolai kirke, Denmark. Painted in 1696</a></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEy1SX5-jIqqQ6e4DaFkjoWFtRNtA0frneZakfNZI6vJrdhMh-EZRdaQZHZHFvIHosgjdLK_FmAdpNpRH6ugZGDhEc6_1p4GypYz_PvP49J4bbU5Ndw33mcfaYxXuTt-jsnLuBmlsq5xc/s1600/PICT0008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEy1SX5-jIqqQ6e4DaFkjoWFtRNtA0frneZakfNZI6vJrdhMh-EZRdaQZHZHFvIHosgjdLK_FmAdpNpRH6ugZGDhEc6_1p4GypYz_PvP49J4bbU5Ndw33mcfaYxXuTt-jsnLuBmlsq5xc/s640/PICT0008.jpg" width="482" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIWrO5p_UH0vlwtpPYUiELPKhACGZ6k3xW1v5eaXLyjk_5kzIrwlF8Lk8kdyLrdx2w3IH3Z0MXNCUjsd2QjoMrfrkTHumCHvRd0UkrgBizXNqn4tNMU19IB7-v_3FToBACjqHVF8ObzhI/s1600/IMG_1885.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><br /></div>
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More somber mantuas, but the caps are spectacular!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIWrO5p_UH0vlwtpPYUiELPKhACGZ6k3xW1v5eaXLyjk_5kzIrwlF8Lk8kdyLrdx2w3IH3Z0MXNCUjsd2QjoMrfrkTHumCHvRd0UkrgBizXNqn4tNMU19IB7-v_3FToBACjqHVF8ObzhI/s640/IMG_1885.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
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<a href="http://livinghistory.dk/Borgerlige/Skaane%20Halland%20Blekinge/Broennestad%20kirke/Hartman/index.html">Nikolaj Lauridsen Hartmann and Maren Gemzæus with their children. Brönnestads kyrka, Sverige. Painted 1700-09</a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu-LU_jm1WX1qlhD1qksjg-ZaC5zAoL3JnaY_28XIigRIeQxGiWlFQAZtu1Pt9mkuUv2MqJY4x0FVCP0csK6tyYcobot3lBpFbkrqR1lNn2rYEYGwyIbM8rM58oUmX9r3oQyp9HDcwIOA/s1600/IMG_1886.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu-LU_jm1WX1qlhD1qksjg-ZaC5zAoL3JnaY_28XIigRIeQxGiWlFQAZtu1Pt9mkuUv2MqJY4x0FVCP0csK6tyYcobot3lBpFbkrqR1lNn2rYEYGwyIbM8rM58oUmX9r3oQyp9HDcwIOA/s640/IMG_1886.jpg" width="519" /></a><br />
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This mantua in black is even more sober.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/Borgerlige/Kirke%20Helsinge%20kirke/Frands%20Koenig%20og%20%20Anne%20Lauritzdatter/index.html">Frands König and Anne Lauritzdatter. Kirke Helsige kirke, Denmark. Painted in 1694.</a></td></tr>
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Also very pretty with the borders.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd1MxNEP-AB0EsCRSIRi6r2CLUWLwrJ6ZAPNIB5T9-VR8zc7uLdefF2hkOqRFlhZQoHW03YZSyHu1hxCsBhnu0RTLQbPzewe1FbYyd_wuGD2Af59uOZTHJWu4oEylp2OI9KHCvTHEjdw0/s1600/IMG_4359.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd1MxNEP-AB0EsCRSIRi6r2CLUWLwrJ6ZAPNIB5T9-VR8zc7uLdefF2hkOqRFlhZQoHW03YZSyHu1hxCsBhnu0RTLQbPzewe1FbYyd_wuGD2Af59uOZTHJWu4oEylp2OI9KHCvTHEjdw0/s640/IMG_4359.jpg" width="554" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/Borgerlige/Skaane%20Halland%20Blekinge/Farloev%20kirke%20Skaane/Rubenius/index.html">Mathias Rubenius and his wives; Anna and Gertrud Katrina Liljengranat. Färlövs kyrka, Sweden. Painted 1700-09 </a></td></tr>
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And this mantua is stunning and the cap is too! I want it!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXDK58JhWb12sjfZ1wWXBgvfV55oUjLqcSoyxlfTf6jJHatcoRLbrhPtm9gY3s_1DNpjsOB6UJESZYPxu-nxrpH5hnosWSsU2uuQAfFtu8vSYy5YZimUmepolRdhJSvsMWJ1Pxx5lu-zM/s1600/PICT3166.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXDK58JhWb12sjfZ1wWXBgvfV55oUjLqcSoyxlfTf6jJHatcoRLbrhPtm9gY3s_1DNpjsOB6UJESZYPxu-nxrpH5hnosWSsU2uuQAfFtu8vSYy5YZimUmepolRdhJSvsMWJ1Pxx5lu-zM/s1600/PICT3166.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/Borgerlige/Thisted%20kirke/Enevold%20Berregaard/index.html">Anne Christensdatter Søe 1644-1736. Thisted kirke, Denmark. Painted 1684.</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSTdDVrtNd2i8dZQwNobIOH3-eOOTb-sLstRqm7kSoSMTc4us1fd_at5d6JwLwW1Mq68wp4Ww_3yBhg7z9VG1BNptk5mqptfW9vmKM2xiTOjCzAnxA1y6-q3gST5TtIBQ8wIUVZhMIulA/s1600/PICT3518.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSTdDVrtNd2i8dZQwNobIOH3-eOOTb-sLstRqm7kSoSMTc4us1fd_at5d6JwLwW1Mq68wp4Ww_3yBhg7z9VG1BNptk5mqptfW9vmKM2xiTOjCzAnxA1y6-q3gST5TtIBQ8wIUVZhMIulA/s640/PICT3518.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/Borgerlige/Skaane%20Halland%20Blekinge/Vastra%20Tommarp%20kirke%20Skaane/Johannes%20Georg%20Alsing/index.html">Catharina, married to Johannes Georg Alsing. Västra Tommarps kyrka, Sweden</a><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">I'm not sure if the following gowns are closed front Mantuas or some other kind of gown. And more spectacular caps!</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.livinghistory.dk/Borgerlige/Bjernede%20kirke/Mads%20Christensen/index.html">Mads Christensen and Martha Bertelsdatter with their children. Bjerned kirke, Denmark Painted 1691.</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivoVUaKzfUoYMi5_fNU8w_lkpaVKXfDwrz_kql92cl-lj6CgayIrlRrduPsQRzbHQacoTwKtKzKTgBp9nqOP0r7EdI9a2fEoauxuoGCfS21I42Z3Un9v_1qypSw0ARbRdtfKYhc8LoVj8/s1600/PICT3329.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivoVUaKzfUoYMi5_fNU8w_lkpaVKXfDwrz_kql92cl-lj6CgayIrlRrduPsQRzbHQacoTwKtKzKTgBp9nqOP0r7EdI9a2fEoauxuoGCfS21I42Z3Un9v_1qypSw0ARbRdtfKYhc8LoVj8/s640/PICT3329.jpg" width="582" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.livinghistory.dk/Borgerlige/Beder%20kirke/Beder/index.html">Laurits Jensen Beder and Anna Cathrine Pedersdatter Dorscheus with their children. Beder kirke, Denmark. painted around 1690.</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/Borgerlige/Varde%20Sct%20Jacobi%20Kirke/Peder%20Nielsen/index.html">Maren Stefansdatter and her daughters. Varde Sct Jacobi Kirke, Denmark. Painted in 1677 </a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn83hxIQwY8YPLSxpAFQCCprPyOhtRjBggbXxmg7IT_5vcvLN06C2zO_FeBnVkb1mGOiBopcaf2slREdWxtsTQBguEE1pCj0akHEcVv4yyWuz8NSCytcYImgxib4xnkWAllpxebfpaOKE/s1600/PICT0051.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn83hxIQwY8YPLSxpAFQCCprPyOhtRjBggbXxmg7IT_5vcvLN06C2zO_FeBnVkb1mGOiBopcaf2slREdWxtsTQBguEE1pCj0akHEcVv4yyWuz8NSCytcYImgxib4xnkWAllpxebfpaOKE/s640/PICT0051.jpg" width="491" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/Borgerlige/Saeby%20kirke/Christen%20Lauridsen%20Rhuus/index.html">Christen Lauridsen Rhuus and Johanne Samuelsdatter Gesmel. Saeby kirke, Denmark. Painted around 1700 by Christen Lauridsen Rhuus .</a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The red fabric is so gorgeous! And a nice view on the stays too.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZu2fO5Kk8iSAguXkU2RFXP4EmECujfePPd-_QaZxefH8RCBR8X8RV95HZO7YURlL6haTDk1U6cqtjZ2OnGWssQhmbnXLK2OuFY40S0YwXBdtpxw5I-lcYkJXx2nABc9H3FsIkXAVoeJQ/s1600/IMG_2766.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZu2fO5Kk8iSAguXkU2RFXP4EmECujfePPd-_QaZxefH8RCBR8X8RV95HZO7YURlL6haTDk1U6cqtjZ2OnGWssQhmbnXLK2OuFY40S0YwXBdtpxw5I-lcYkJXx2nABc9H3FsIkXAVoeJQ/s640/IMG_2766.jpg" width="466" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/Borgerlige/Horsens%20Statsskole/Portraetsamling/slides/IMG_2766.html">Christiane Marie Foss 1684-1750, married to Carsten Worm 1707, Århus stift</a><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> And here it looks like the stays are laced over a different coloured stomacher.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/Borgerlige/Ribe%20Sct%20Catharina%20kirke/Knud%20Hauch/index.html">Knud Hauch and Sophie Brun. Ribe Sct Catharina kirke, Denmark. Painted by Knud Hauch 1703 </a><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">And a few hairstyles. Big hair was a thing around 1700 too.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWl9Wo_wAS4ZLgwZSAjsp_kgk7XAG1ENx-TurqJhenalGA-NdgQfovf0ldjypeGyQZs4jQn-gV2o9RiGsCgA0eWO0RjuXT1FaBmaTYJTcmTmrjUrfX-6S5riYi1Ij4Rthm-nINrew6ODo/s1600/PICT0017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWl9Wo_wAS4ZLgwZSAjsp_kgk7XAG1ENx-TurqJhenalGA-NdgQfovf0ldjypeGyQZs4jQn-gV2o9RiGsCgA0eWO0RjuXT1FaBmaTYJTcmTmrjUrfX-6S5riYi1Ij4Rthm-nINrew6ODo/s1600/PICT0017.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.livinghistory.dk/Adelige/Ubby%20kirke/Edel%20Sophie%20Bille/index.html">Edel Sophie Bille 1684-1706. Ubby kirke, Roskilde stift. Painted in 1714</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv9T3HgRNHrM8aE5X5Ru_wWENFwKEIGZW60zFvbvv7vvaRHnFbnsn3sPx6eWAlpUoJcfXpnCjzugu1TOhzfSWRVRvm6e8ERfCBTjV9LsyFm7AtUwaRxZfXqUvFSLx9mOdO4_7zxQJNbJg/s1600/IMG_2803.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="614" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv9T3HgRNHrM8aE5X5Ru_wWENFwKEIGZW60zFvbvv7vvaRHnFbnsn3sPx6eWAlpUoJcfXpnCjzugu1TOhzfSWRVRvm6e8ERfCBTjV9LsyFm7AtUwaRxZfXqUvFSLx9mOdO4_7zxQJNbJg/s640/IMG_2803.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/Borgerlige/Horsens%20Statsskole/Portraetsamling/slides/IMG_2803.html">Margrethe Ingeborg Hemmer, 1643-1723, married to Mathias Worm. Painting from 1700-09, Århus Stift </a></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://livinghistory.dk/Borgerlige/Horsens%20Statsskole/Portraetsamling/slides/IMG_2899.html">Unknown girl, 12 years old. painted 1690-09. Denmark</a></td></tr>
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Isishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09380497568603304818noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580595753456307919.post-41282517877074953832015-11-07T19:10:00.000+01:002015-11-07T19:54:46.701+01:0017th century stays and boned bodices, part 2<b style="font-weight: normal;"></b><div dir="ltr" id="docs-internal-guid-729a422f-e2ed-85d6-dda7-4bbfa860b2d3" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Part 1 can be found <a href="http://isiswardrobe.blogspot.com/2015/11/17th-century-stays-and-boned-bodices.html">here.</a></span></b></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span> </div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><strong>Stays after 1650</strong></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJmTxIKrYHgPoMxZMhhgJw4YC-0jQ6JLu-wJui4xLGtdfilWLWWOIi1oannX9rph_-88jtVvy1NKDSWopanDplrLw115XwwzRf5oLMZZSPgneVSw1iglY6mQpv22r_AOpdV77dHCTnHV8/s1600/2010EB2907_jpg_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJmTxIKrYHgPoMxZMhhgJw4YC-0jQ6JLu-wJui4xLGtdfilWLWWOIi1oannX9rph_-88jtVvy1NKDSWopanDplrLw115XwwzRf5oLMZZSPgneVSw1iglY6mQpv22r_AOpdV77dHCTnHV8/s1600/2010EB2907_jpg_l.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O10446/stays-and-busk-unknown/">Source</a></td></tr>
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<a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O10446/stays-and-busk-unknown/" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: #1155cc; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline;">Salmon pink stays, 1660-1680</span></a><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> at V&A. Made out of ten pattern pieces, giving it a slightly more curvaceous shape than earlier stays and making the waist more round rather than oval. One layer of watered silk and one layer herringbone weave linen, possibly ticking, bound with silk grosgrain ribbon. Laced in front over a boned, T-shaped stomacher. The boning channels are stitched with silk and boned with whalebones. Ten skirts with six gores inserted between the front ones. The gores are not boned. The stays are not lined, but the seams are covered on the inside with silk grosgrain ribbon. 3/4 -length sleeves are attached with ribbons to the shoulder straps. Though they are more advanced in cut than previous stays and probably also made in a different country, they still have similar construction method.</span></div>
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<a href="http://www.museumoflondonprints.com/image/138416/wool-silk-and-linen-corset-17th-century" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: #1155cc; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline;">Silk and wool stays, dated 1671-1680.</span></a><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> The front is covered with silk brocade and decorated with silver gilt braid and spangles. The back is covered with blue wool and it is lined with linen.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE7XcrjO62Hsyo7ikEoMKcWeZP6pHD37GxWpqJZup_rsSVMCOKxEq8k7Hsnvk3skf7hoLGdIcufDnYYxUGX-ADUVAm0wU4p98MN1RHtY7HQ_GUGL8zP7zfxWT1srwMDnb62g07_alJ0-I/s1600/138416.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE7XcrjO62Hsyo7ikEoMKcWeZP6pHD37GxWpqJZup_rsSVMCOKxEq8k7Hsnvk3skf7hoLGdIcufDnYYxUGX-ADUVAm0wU4p98MN1RHtY7HQ_GUGL8zP7zfxWT1srwMDnb62g07_alJ0-I/s1600/138416.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.museumoflondonprints.com/image/138416/wool-silk-and-linen-corset-17th-century">Source</a></td></tr>
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<a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/90404?rpp=40&pg=3&ao=on&ft=corset&pos=87" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: #1155cc; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline;">Yellow silk stays,</span></a><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> either late 17th century or early 18th century. The cut of stays didn’t change abruptly at the turning of the century and it is difficult to say exactly on which side of 1700 they were made. These are covered in silk, making the boning channels invisiböe and is decorated with silver lace.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb6z34mt1JtUk4YY5sdJdugIk_7XzX9m3z2Rk3nBorEV5c5SvLu4wwegKfMryrX7TkY86rPtR-tzYMP-jLChX5rbGxdyK1wyRoR-EKB5gQvZgX5Pdrcojb-XwD8CQpvEID_kXZ0xrpUPQ/s1600/1975_34_2a_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="378" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb6z34mt1JtUk4YY5sdJdugIk_7XzX9m3z2Rk3nBorEV5c5SvLu4wwegKfMryrX7TkY86rPtR-tzYMP-jLChX5rbGxdyK1wyRoR-EKB5gQvZgX5Pdrcojb-XwD8CQpvEID_kXZ0xrpUPQ/s640/1975_34_2a_F.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/90404?rpp=40&pg=3&ao=on&ft=corset&pos=87">Source</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><strong>Boned bodices</strong></span></div>
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<a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O115754/bodice-unknown/" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: #1155cc; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline;">The 1630´s ivory silk slashed bodice</span></a><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> in V&A has a boned lining, but it is different from other extant bodices. It is open in the front it is probably that there was originally a stomacher as well. The foundation is built from several layers of buckram and linen canvas, reinforced, not fully boned, with whalebones. The boning is wider than in other extant stays and bodices, about 12 mm and in the back the boning is put in horizontally. It also differs from other bodices in that it cut above the waist and has no tabs, which is in keeping with the current fashion which had a raised waist.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii2vwue7iy6_HNNq559cnrzrYMfTso5aC1THGtChHE3hECw094LO2eqZDKWmynptEIDNeX6tFI_j4HwNG4myu9oDhOidNeEFt5KpiKFam95aS_X1ZaY05evyS1GfBDFDQbuZ-0bpSR4gA/s1600/2010EB2875_jpg_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii2vwue7iy6_HNNq559cnrzrYMfTso5aC1THGtChHE3hECw094LO2eqZDKWmynptEIDNeX6tFI_j4HwNG4myu9oDhOidNeEFt5KpiKFam95aS_X1ZaY05evyS1GfBDFDQbuZ-0bpSR4gA/s1600/2010EB2875_jpg_l.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O115754/bodice-unknown/">Source</a></td></tr>
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<a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O137794/bodice-unknown/" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: #1155cc; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline;">Pale-coloured silk satin bodice, 1660-1669</span></a><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">, V&A. Decorated with parchment lace. The boned foundations is made from twelve pattern pieces, reinforced at places with up to three extra layers of linen. The middle side panel is unboned but stiffened with buckram and wool and may be a later addition to increase the size. The foundation is made by two layers of linen and has ten skirts. Boned with whalebone, at the back are four horizontal bones placed on top of the vertical ones. A pocket for a busk is placed at the center front. Lined with ikat woven silk.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Y2jDcP_oRWAUHji-QcgNLn85Vidnrv1N5i_6Zukl2b31U8efpxu-qDr8J6MJVfOoxPvEE5nki0i_4Rwyi_K_cdgCBstYYCzeqonb4TM6YOfn3e-ewJscgE2K2YnsWJNUIcVIn7DYv5k/s1600/2010EB2697_jpg_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Y2jDcP_oRWAUHji-QcgNLn85Vidnrv1N5i_6Zukl2b31U8efpxu-qDr8J6MJVfOoxPvEE5nki0i_4Rwyi_K_cdgCBstYYCzeqonb4TM6YOfn3e-ewJscgE2K2YnsWJNUIcVIn7DYv5k/s1600/2010EB2697_jpg_l.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O137794/bodice-unknown/">Source</a></td></tr>
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<a href="http://www.museumoflondonprints.com/image/953654/unknown-a-womans-bodice-made-from-green-silk-c-1660" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: #1155cc; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline;">Green silk bodice,</span></a><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> Museum of London, 1650-1670. Decorated with silver bobbin lace and silver alloy spangles and heavily boned.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwV-ukBw1FhsvGN5l3zIhthOVfOmYzMEbRdTmaVBvSsMCIMY7z1GemPtbzrDLbKr_iF7wn2qXAhQLdJ6xXZPSy8gulSQ6tnAYxHxtYrA9SA3Dr1mxoZxXcKXSeOPLFgY4MH3KwAoYItNk/s1600/953654.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwV-ukBw1FhsvGN5l3zIhthOVfOmYzMEbRdTmaVBvSsMCIMY7z1GemPtbzrDLbKr_iF7wn2qXAhQLdJ6xXZPSy8gulSQ6tnAYxHxtYrA9SA3Dr1mxoZxXcKXSeOPLFgY4MH3KwAoYItNk/s1600/953654.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.museumoflondonprints.com/image/953654/unknown-a-womans-bodice-made-from-green-silk-c-1660">Source</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuhNTA67tWnXLNwV_qvNPoDnMM34VVWpwUlMJPru_7ZN9qvOJX_k-EEAW-x23rocyZq2CzX4bphHW_I1ywFY2KdWLb9qoJoKCviEaSmJyCJeJuurbXXtUopZITbnS89ZNhUJ-Os8EUGEc/s1600/1660s_court_dress.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuhNTA67tWnXLNwV_qvNPoDnMM34VVWpwUlMJPru_7ZN9qvOJX_k-EEAW-x23rocyZq2CzX4bphHW_I1ywFY2KdWLb9qoJoKCviEaSmJyCJeJuurbXXtUopZITbnS89ZNhUJ-Os8EUGEc/s640/1660s_court_dress.jpg" width="427" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:1660s_court_dress.JPG">Silver tissue gown with a boned bodice from the 1660’s, Fashion Museum, Bath. Photo by Ludi Ling</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><strong>Iron stays</strong></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Several iron stays have been preserved, most of them dating to the decades before and after 1600. They are usually rather elaborate and elegant in shape, the metal perforated in patterns and the shape follow the form a fashionable female torso should possess; a cone. When worn they would have been padded on the inside and covered with fabric, making them a bit more comfortable than they look at the first glance. Their purpose is not completely clear though and there are more than one theory to their function.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtu031I7jY5dmczHXv9aeguxsQ4L0shTDW3VKjPRGjo_T2VR9LutIOll9e0h4ep-t-v8OWgcDGhN9iPX8mlRQdDGnm6lIvvzcPmJfvfnqRayUlIu871YXOy7y0fB8CPQoZOYIlFn3AMgg/s1600/Iron_Corset_YORCM_TSS34.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="314" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtu031I7jY5dmczHXv9aeguxsQ4L0shTDW3VKjPRGjo_T2VR9LutIOll9e0h4ep-t-v8OWgcDGhN9iPX8mlRQdDGnm6lIvvzcPmJfvfnqRayUlIu871YXOy7y0fB8CPQoZOYIlFn3AMgg/s400/Iron_Corset_YORCM_TSS34.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Iron_Corset_YORCM_TSS34.jpg">Iron corset, 1580-1599, York Castle Museum</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The rigidity of their shape could have served a medical purpose, like correcting scoliosis. Children were certainly fitted with stays to correct mis-happen body’s and it is not impossible that grown women could be in need of corrective help as well. It is also known that Eleonora of Toledo, who suffered from rheumatism and tuberculosis, had metal stays made for her, They were not listed among her clothes, which indicate that they were used for medical purposes.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">They could also have been worn as an expression of piety, an unyielding sister to the hair shirt, that a noble woman could wear for religious reasons while at the same time retaining a fashionable shape. It is also possible that the extreme rigidity could be something sought after for the most ceremonial and formal occasions. A woman in full court wear was a display, an ornament or a showcase of wealth and then iron stays may have provided the perfect frame for it. They must have been quite heavy to wear but considering the weight of a farthingale, several petticoats and a heavily decorated gown, perhaps the extra weight of a metal corset wasn’t too much of a burden, especially if they were just worn for special occasions.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih0ZzfkeuNQhFv7_rDV48oCIOnFBY1slr0dBSz7AEjlQE-KLcd4HyCyAo5LqbczyaRn9r-NYIfyqivrhYhHafAxEKsw4sJS21m8gkJUBC23IkEIcVQNGKzuBeWuh192lFTh_iYk59aBWg/s1600/Elizabeth_Vernon_big.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih0ZzfkeuNQhFv7_rDV48oCIOnFBY1slr0dBSz7AEjlQE-KLcd4HyCyAo5LqbczyaRn9r-NYIfyqivrhYhHafAxEKsw4sJS21m8gkJUBC23IkEIcVQNGKzuBeWuh192lFTh_iYk59aBWg/s640/Elizabeth_Vernon_big.jpg" width="393" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Elizabeth_Vernon_big.jpg">Anonymous, <em>Elizabeth Vernon, Countess of Southampton</em>, c. 1600</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><strong>Conclusion</strong></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span> </div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Despite the small sample material and the difficulty in finding information, some conclusions about stays and boned bodices can be drawn. Hopefully there will one day be more in-depth research on the subject which undoubtedly would provide more and better information than this short article can provide.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Stays and boned bodices in the 17th century moulded the figure. The pattern pieces fit like a jigsaw puzzle, making the stays two-dimensional. Later, in the 18th century seams started to curve on each other, creating a garment that to some extent adapted to the female body’s natural curves. In the 17th century it was the body which had to adapt to the stays, pushing the breast up and stomach down.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Stays and boned bodices were always fully boned and the boning channels, when they can be seen, are vertical. There is one exception to this; the ivory, slashed satin bodice in V&A. Apart from this example, stays and bodices both from the early and the late 17th century are heavily boned.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The shoulder straps on the stays are placed in correspondence to how the fashionable neckline was cut. The Effigy stays have shoulder straps that cover the shoulders as fashion dictated in 1603, later stays have straps that are off the shoulders.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Stays from the first half of the 17th century are front-laced, both with or without a separate stomacher. They have few pattern pieces.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Stays from the second half are a bit more varied. There are the front-laced stays from V&A, which has a stomacher and attached sleeves. Most of the extant stays are back-laced, however, and they are covered so the boning channels are invisible. The front are decorated and sometimes the fabric that covers the front is more expensive than the fabric in the back. Stays are made of several pattern pieces.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">All extant boned bodices, apart from the slashed satin one, are back-laced. They too are constructed from several pattern pieces. Most of the extant stays are decorated and/or covered with expensive fabric, indicating that they were meant to be visible and not solely regarded as foundations underwear. Stays with attachable sleeves further blur the line between stays and bodice.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_T7CxwvvUpjYTheTH6xbib8pxZWGCoAzW4zsMOfYrtAdK7jno5Ix5S8UD50Ba6Ge0QsfhNSCuXr3FUS8pASyjjiRt39t3P9-xI1oNvLtGxgeNtFmu7nMlGE3BOfgQJ0nFpKkal4CJO2A/s1600/Gerard_ter_Borch_d__J__004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_T7CxwvvUpjYTheTH6xbib8pxZWGCoAzW4zsMOfYrtAdK7jno5Ix5S8UD50Ba6Ge0QsfhNSCuXr3FUS8pASyjjiRt39t3P9-xI1oNvLtGxgeNtFmu7nMlGE3BOfgQJ0nFpKkal4CJO2A/s640/Gerard_ter_Borch_d__J__004.jpg" width="507" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Gerard_ter_Borch_d._J._004.jpg">Gerard ter Borch, <em>The Concert</em>, 1655</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Literature </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span> </div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Anonymous </span><a href="http://books.google.se/books?id=c4dJAAAAMAAJ&hl=sv&source=gbs_slider_cls_metadata_0_mylibrary&redir_esc=y" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: #1155cc; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline;">An account of charity-schools in Great Britain and Ireland: with the benefactions thereto; and of the methods whereby they were set up, and are governed. Also a proposal for adding some work to the childrens learning. And an appendix, containing certain forms and directions relating to these schools</span></a><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">, J. Downing, 1712</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Arnold, Janet </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Patterns of Fashion: Englishwomen's Dresses & Their Construction</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">, London: MacMillan, 1977 </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Arnold, Janet </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Patterns of Fashion: The Cut and Construction of Clothes For Men and Women c1560-1620</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">, London: Macmillan, 1985 </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Arnold, Janet “The ‘pair of straight bodies’ and ‘a pair of drawers’ dating from 1603 which Clothe the Effigy of Queen Elizabeth I in Westminster Abbey”, </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Costume</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">, vol 41, 2007 </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Hammar, Britta & Rasmussen, Pernilla </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Underkläder: En kulturhistoria</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">, Stockholm, Signum, 2008 </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Kunzle, David </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Fashion and Fetishism: Corset, Tight-lacing and Other Forms of Body-sculpture</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">, New ed., Stroud : Sutton, 2004 </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">North, Susan & Tiramani, Jenny (ed.) </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Seventeenth-century women's dress patterns. Book 1</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">, London : V & A Publishing, 2011 </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">North, Susan & Tiramani, Jenny (ed.) </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Seventeenth-century women's dress patterns. Book 2</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">, London : V & A Publishing, 2012 </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Pietsch, Johannes </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Die Kostümsammlung Hüpsch im Hessischen Landesmuseum Darmstadt, Bestandskatalog der Männer- und Frauenkleidungsstücke; Studien zu Material, Technik und Geschichte der Bekleidung im 17. Jahrhundert</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">, The Hüpsch Costume Collection in the Hessisches Landesmuseum Darmstadt, 2008 </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Ribeiro, Aileen </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Fashion and fiction: Dress In Art and Literature in Stuart England</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">, New Haven: Yale University Press, 2005 </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Sorge-English, Lynn </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Stays and Body Image In London: The Staymaking Trade, 1680-1810</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">, London: Pickering & Chatto, 2011. </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Steele, Valerie </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The Corset: A Cultural History</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">, New Haven; Yale University Press, 2001</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span> </div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Wiseman, Richard</span><a href="http://books.google.se/books?id=r3hVAAAAcAAJ&hl=sv&source=gbs_navlinks_s" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: #1155cc; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline;"> Several chirurgical treatises</span></a><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">, London, Flesher, 1676 </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Online sources </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span> </div>
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<a href="http://www.nationalarchives.gov.uk/currency/" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: #1155cc; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline;">Old Bailey</span></a><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> </span></div>
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<a href="http://www.concealedgarments.org/2010/10/sittingbourne-cache/" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: #1155cc; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline;">Sittingbourne Cache, Deliberatly Concealed Garment Project</span></a><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> </span></div>
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<a href="http://thegoodwyfe.blogspot.no/2012/10/sittingbourne-stays_18.html" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: #1155cc; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline;">Sittingbourne Stays, Ready To Wear (1640s Style) </span></a></div>
<br /><a href="http://aneafiles.webs.com/renaissancegallery/stays.html" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: #1155cc; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline;">To Stay or Not to Stay..., Anèa Costume</span></a><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> </span></b></b><br />Isishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09380497568603304818noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580595753456307919.post-34736662329436846992015-11-03T09:30:00.000+01:002015-11-03T09:50:55.277+01:0017th century stays and boned bodices, part 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">This article was first published at <a href="http://www.foundationsrevealed.com/">Foundations Revealed</a> in April 2015. Due to length and amount of picture, this article will be posted in two parts here.</span></b></div>
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<b style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><strong>Introduction</strong></span><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4RpA1CrB3kKBKc_sal1MQbVmr63fy3ou3h5PyWVewPhuZwufmh1YSkTLsh3f_u7BNqdA30_6T-Wo899HywrsCy_spTv0ZmMb1TRxnHutLPWmNLhJEJoaOD1-o5OiHJpZUQIoXErTcPPM/s1600/Pieter_de_Hooch_-_Mother_Lacing_Her_Bodice_beside_a_Cradle_-_WGA11698.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="365" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4RpA1CrB3kKBKc_sal1MQbVmr63fy3ou3h5PyWVewPhuZwufmh1YSkTLsh3f_u7BNqdA30_6T-Wo899HywrsCy_spTv0ZmMb1TRxnHutLPWmNLhJEJoaOD1-o5OiHJpZUQIoXErTcPPM/s400/Pieter_de_Hooch_-_Mother_Lacing_Her_Bodice_beside_a_Cradle_-_WGA11698.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pieter_de_Hooch_-_Mother_Lacing_Her_Bodice_beside_a_Cradle_-_WGA11698.jpg">Pieter de Hooch, <em>Mother Lacing Her Bodice Beside A Cradle</em>, 1659-1660</a></td></tr>
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<b style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">17th century stays is a rather neglected subject in fashion history and little have been written about it. There are also very few remaining examples of stays and boned bodices and even fewer of those have been properly analyzed. This article will take a brief look at the history of stays and discuss a few extant garments to see if any conclusions can be drawn on how they were constructed. The focus will be on the upper classes and examples in text relate to Northern Europe in general even if the extant garments described are mostly from Great Britain.</span></b></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Interesting and related topics like staymaking as a trade, critique against stay wearing and how stays were worn by different social classes will only lightly be touched upon. I am not mentioning kirtles either. In the 17th century stays could also be called a pair of bodies, a straight pair of bodies or a pair of stays, but for ease I use stays throughout the text.</span>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><strong>A brief history of 17th century stays and fashion</strong></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Stays emerge in fashion history in the late 16th century though the exact dates and evolution process are not known. By the beginning of the 17th century stiffened stays were an indispensable garment in the upper class woman’s wardrobe. It is important, however, to remember that stays served more than one purpose. The most obvious one being to shape the body into a fashionable shape, a foundation to which the clothes were fitted. But they also served as breast support and they served a moral purpose. A female body in stays were a decent body. Stays could also be used for medical purposes, especially for children, both girls and boys, were laced into stays to ensure that they grew straight.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5C1t8eh-tbdBdUvWtaI75TFcnCwgMg98R7al0i245skLyXJr5JeaM-MQeWQc5V8nwn_59-wR34APTzCeqfI7PMmMDxk2Ub9JSjRplBO9d85ylKon7xIDnuZ9KtwAl5U34AePO4210O8o/s1600/English_School_c__1610-1615_Portrait_of_a_Lady.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5C1t8eh-tbdBdUvWtaI75TFcnCwgMg98R7al0i245skLyXJr5JeaM-MQeWQc5V8nwn_59-wR34APTzCeqfI7PMmMDxk2Ub9JSjRplBO9d85ylKon7xIDnuZ9KtwAl5U34AePO4210O8o/s640/English_School_c__1610-1615_Portrait_of_a_Lady.jpg" width="472" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:English_School_c._1610-1615_Portrait_of_a_Lady.jpg">English School, <em>Portrait of A Lady</em>, 1610-1615</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">In the early 17th century women’s fashion were rigid and very formal. The bodice had a long narrow waist, large ruffs were still worn and so was the cumbersome farthingale. Around 1620 fashion grew less formal, and the waist crept up above its natural place.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtdLE4Xc8xKJiRNuL0ygKFnv2vTNeZrP7M7h-1jHfUY1zSgp4ANqof2sJGKg24R5ApoApaodAuIuUc4A9_soLYx_uJg_8lF43HWFEfi7qPacvfgKf6jQRhVdy9s4B4IJt83dnqqs7DOX0/s1600/Anne_Sophia%252C_Countess_of_Carnarvon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtdLE4Xc8xKJiRNuL0ygKFnv2vTNeZrP7M7h-1jHfUY1zSgp4ANqof2sJGKg24R5ApoApaodAuIuUc4A9_soLYx_uJg_8lF43HWFEfi7qPacvfgKf6jQRhVdy9s4B4IJt83dnqqs7DOX0/s640/Anne_Sophia%252C_Countess_of_Carnarvon.jpg" width="420" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Anne_Sophia,_Countess_of_Carnarvon.jpg">Anthony van Dyck, <em>Anne Sophia, Countess of Carnavon</em>, 17th century</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The high waisted fashion were quite temporary, though, in the 1640’s the waist was once again in its natural place. At the same time the boned bodice became popular, they were essentially stays covered in fabric and with sleeves permanently sewn in, making them both stays and bodice at the same time. With some variations this fashion kept up until the 1680’s. The gowns were less decorated than in the early 17th century and necklines were near or off the shoulders.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Even if the boned bodice seems to have been extremely popular, ordinary stays were still worn. Some types of garments, like riding habits, needed stays as they were not boned. There were also a growing trade of ready-made stays for the lower classes who did not rely on the boned bodice in the same way. Sweden started to import ready-made stays in 1667, for example.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">In the 1670’s the mantua became a popular fashion. It was a gown that got its shape from being pleated around the body and now separate stays really came into their own. The boned bodice remained for formal wear,but the mantua kept its popularity throughout the rest of the century.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgot3vF8uU_CQnw6CZvEqz7dcf028ecPtncw7jgArIBklSPdOrHxSqtksLkwnXIHrKO6tTr7m5jeaF4ualBEJljvcsyoiohuv-ihyphenhyphenGXCPh9ju0sy41bPVr_0TZ_MVSqeIIvCAdxgoNZSpI/s1600/Metsu_viola-de-gamba.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgot3vF8uU_CQnw6CZvEqz7dcf028ecPtncw7jgArIBklSPdOrHxSqtksLkwnXIHrKO6tTr7m5jeaF4ualBEJljvcsyoiohuv-ihyphenhyphenGXCPh9ju0sy41bPVr_0TZ_MVSqeIIvCAdxgoNZSpI/s640/Metsu_viola-de-gamba.jpg" width="512" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Metsu_viola-de-gamba.jpg">Gabriel Metsu, Woman Playing Viola de gamba, 1663</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">By the second half of 17th century, stays were worn by all classes and even a working woman could own more than one pair. In 1662 a maid in the Finish town Viborg, had three pairs stolen from her and in Sweden in 1684, simple stays were part of a female servant’s salary. As a result, stays were made for all classes. Upper class stays was constructed from linen canvas, buckram and silk, stiffened with whalebone and perhaps also paste and paper. For the lower classes stays were made from linen, wool or leather. Whalebones could be used in less expensive stays, but they could also be stiffened with reed, cane or pack-thread (hemp-cord). Leather stays may not have needed additional boning to give support. The lower classes could purchase their stays ready-made or second hand while the upper classes bought bespoke stays where the staymaker visited the customer’s homes to take measurements and fit the stays.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimH4t5zqV16bsgOQj7SA8_-MsxK-2FuojavZRiNL_BbqFx_dSLDaKTb3Sz195hfm0XxvrUFC7GNU3yknrKDVuOMJFVpnnEE_97QnPwnTs23QxqEbrSLBaIzxVepM8n3LOgev-0vV2-0VM/s1600/1695-anne-de-souvre-marquis_med.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimH4t5zqV16bsgOQj7SA8_-MsxK-2FuojavZRiNL_BbqFx_dSLDaKTb3Sz195hfm0XxvrUFC7GNU3yknrKDVuOMJFVpnnEE_97QnPwnTs23QxqEbrSLBaIzxVepM8n3LOgev-0vV2-0VM/s400/1695-anne-de-souvre-marquis_med.jpg" width="329" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Anne_de_Souvr%C3%A9_%281646-1715%29_by_Simon_Dequoy_%28Versailles%29_in_1695.jpg">Simon Dequoy, <em>Anne de Souvré</em>, 1695</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Stays had become an essential garment for women of all stations in life even if material and rigidity changed after the user’s need. A few years into the 18th century, in 1712, a leather bodice with a stomacher, valued to 2 s,8 d (modern value around £10) was seen as part of the clothing minimum for girls in a London charity school, indicating that it was seen as must even for society’s poorest members. Between 1684 and 1700 the records of Old Bailey lists stays as stolen property twenty-nine times. The value of them varies a lot, the cheapest are valued to 2 shilling, the most expensive ones 40. That means that stays were quite expensive, in modern pricing they would range between £8-160. Material is more rarely noted, one pair is made of stuff, usually a wool fabric and then made of silk.</span>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">In the beginning of the 17th century stay were made by the tailor, but gradually staymaking became a trade in its own right, in France, for example, that happened in 1660. Making stays were considered a man’s work, just as tailoring clothes was and even when women, in the last quarter of the century, got the right to sew clothes for their own sex, staymaking continued to be a man’s trade.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">In 1688, The Academy of Armory and Blazon (Book III) describes the construction of stays with great detail. They are made of seven pattern pieces, the back, the side parts and the fore parts and the shoulder straps. Stays can be open in the front or in the back. If laced in the front then there is also the stomacher that goes under the lacing. The stomacher has a pocket for the busk, a flat piece of wood, horn, whalebone, metal or ivory that help to push the breasts up and the tummy down. The busk was often richly decorated. The boning channels are marked on the pattern pieces before they are stitched down. Whalebone is cut to size and inserted.The bottom of the stays have skirts, tabs. Stays are lined with fustian or linen and the edges are bound. The lacing holes are whipstitched. The laces have metal tags at the ends to keep from fraying. When the stays are finished, the are covered in the fabric of the gown and sleeves are attached.</span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1KCTY41enNGY0W8-vUpKD0gEk5IvvmFjFMRCl7rNt_LRaXz6o4GvA0_s4YBGVGxKjRMD7KwEMbGh3NzcP8Ra0Pkvfh41qdcXOlsn_2um5VZhIaUZLH4Q3QbX_8RRcVoa23qGE1nOg4wI/s1600/Bernhard_Keil_-_The_Lacemaker.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1KCTY41enNGY0W8-vUpKD0gEk5IvvmFjFMRCl7rNt_LRaXz6o4GvA0_s4YBGVGxKjRMD7KwEMbGh3NzcP8Ra0Pkvfh41qdcXOlsn_2um5VZhIaUZLH4Q3QbX_8RRcVoa23qGE1nOg4wI/s640/Bernhard_Keil_-_The_Lacemaker.jpg" width="490" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Bernhard_Keil_-_The_Lacemaker.jpg">Bernhard Keil, <em>The Lacemaker</em>, after 1660</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><strong>Stays before 1650</strong></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Stays are difficult to date and there a few guidelines on how they evolved. As of now only three pairs of stays known to still exist that can be dated between 1600-1650. The oldest is known as the</span><a href="http://www.westminster-abbey.org/our-history/royals/elizabeth-i" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: #1155cc; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline;"> Effigy stays in Westminster Abbey</span></a><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">. They were found on the effigy of Elizabeth I and was probably made for her funeral in 1603 by her tailor John Colt. They are very simple and the stays the Queen wore were covered in silk or satin. The Effigy stays are made of double layers of twill fustian and are bound with green leather. The boning channels are stitched with linen thread and it is laced in the front with twenty-nine pairs of lacing holes. They are made from three patterns pieces (the lining has four) and the side-back seam is slightly curved. They are long-waisted and the front deeps down in a peak. They are boned with whalebones.</span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="IMGP7387.jpg" height="640" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/G_5EEH9-8EcV2w2NIh5D4PPFy1lSIeukE5nULG_EUM1jCVR8IddB1uDie33wI3C3ZfJOQDO-KTQGF1a3IRKKiVHjd330i-6sn2oLoenKGs3ipdIlr1FGky8r4LRg2xcC8uARDwY" style="-webkit-transform: rotate(0.00rad); border: currentColor; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; transform: rotate(0rad);" width="425" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d4a3f773-cc74-f81e-9d87-7094032787ba" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Crimson stays at Manchester Galleries. Photo by Annika Windahl Pontén</span></span></td></tr>
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<a href="http://www.manchestergalleries.org/the-collections/about-the-collection-2/costume/" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: #1155cc; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline;">Crimson stays, 1638-1650s</span></a><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> The Gallery of Costumes, Platt Hall. Cut from four pattern pieces, but the seam at the center back is straight and may be a result from an effort to save fabric, not because it is necessary to have a seam there. Made from one layer of crimson silk satin and one of herringbone weave linen and bound with pale blue silk ribbon. Laced in the front over a stomacher. Boning channels sewn in pale blue silk thread. The center front is shallower and more rounded than on the Effigy stays. Six skirts with two unboned gores inserted between the skirts at the front. The seams are covered with wide metal lace.</span><br />
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<a href="http://thegoodwyfe.blogspot.no/2012/10/sittingbourne-stays_18.html" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: #1155cc; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline;">The Sittingbourne stays</span></a><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> were found under the floorboards of an old inn and are dated to 1620-1640. They are dated to 16 and are made of linen twill, or possibly fustian. They are front-laced and made from three pattern pieces, bound with leather. The shoulder straps are cut off the shoulder. The stays are worn and patched and have evidently been in heavy use. They have five skirts and the front goes down into a shallow peak. There is no armscye, from the high back panel the top is a straight line and it is possible that they would not encase the breasts much, if at all. Perhaps they would have looked similar to this painting were the breast support seems to be the shift as it is pressed against the bosom with the help of the stays.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwah75sM5UWrrbScC6BaLzzDiFKc7WqjqMg29UF7Ifb2mMFJdsrjRAoCygFgsfTqTmpqK57KHhI8aG0VhIeeK6W31lQUu7TVzbv4e266vsCfR3yACmvoEMAZ6dXd_2aSyYMWy7Sg-qnW8/s1600/Anonymous_-_Rich_man_and_Lazarus_ca__1610.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="470" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwah75sM5UWrrbScC6BaLzzDiFKc7WqjqMg29UF7Ifb2mMFJdsrjRAoCygFgsfTqTmpqK57KHhI8aG0VhIeeK6W31lQUu7TVzbv4e266vsCfR3yACmvoEMAZ6dXd_2aSyYMWy7Sg-qnW8/s640/Anonymous_-_Rich_man_and_Lazarus_ca__1610.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Anonymous_-_Rich_man_and_Lazarus_ca._1610.jpg?uselang=sv">Anonymous, Rich Man and Lazarus, c. 1610</a></td></tr>
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<br />Isishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09380497568603304818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580595753456307919.post-47094571091150335462015-09-28T09:15:00.002+02:002015-09-28T09:15:31.818+02:00Fontange caps<b style="font-weight: normal;"></b><div dir="ltr" id="docs-internal-guid-d7cdf1c4-12bf-18e2-02e9-1c209eb4af4d" style="line-height: 1.9871; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;">
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">High on my wish list is a 1690-1710 mantilla and with that I would need a fontange cap. This rather absurd cap fashion became popular during the 1680’s and remained popular until the 1710’s, or so. It was usually paired with a high hairstyle, confusingly enough usually called a fontange hairstyle. To be technical the fontange was the ribbons on the cap, the high pleated frill was called a frelange. As it rose higher and higher it was supported by a wire construction called commode.</span></b></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The only extant fontange cap, as far as i know, is actually worn by a doll, known as Lady Clapham. V&A describes it like this:</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><em>Circular doll's cap consisting of the cap, wire and ribbon. The cap is made of spotted lawn edged in English bobbin lace which falls into two lappets on either side of the face. It has a graduated double frill ('Monte la haut'), a narrower frill in front and a taller frill behind. The frill is supported by a wire covered in muslin formed in a semi-circle with eight radiating spokes graduating to the highest in the centre. The cap is circled with pink silk taffeta ribbon which is twisted about the cap, and is tied in two bows and lined with brown silk. The ribbon is padded in between and sewn to a cotton band which forms a base to attach to the doll's head. The cap is secured by a linen cord drawn through the back breadth.</em></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeQ8lIPNiuDvclSqroQ4DOCPc_OtDPW99IMXn3vGbhUKoFlJni1yYrtHoFoL57-oqueaLLbaITjAEUQ6u8lifYPEFzyfJuxz5PM-Em-SD8KP8M8cmltC_QDny_fz-3BKhKo2EGA6kgVqo/s1600/2006AM5126_jpg_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeQ8lIPNiuDvclSqroQ4DOCPc_OtDPW99IMXn3vGbhUKoFlJni1yYrtHoFoL57-oqueaLLbaITjAEUQ6u8lifYPEFzyfJuxz5PM-Em-SD8KP8M8cmltC_QDny_fz-3BKhKo2EGA6kgVqo/s1600/2006AM5126_jpg_l.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O82546/dolls-cap-unknown/">Victoria & Albert</a></td></tr>
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<span id="docs-internal-guid-d7cdf1c4-12cc-7497-4707-e1aea8e7fde6" style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Unfortunately no one seems to have made a proper pattern.</span><br /> </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT51P1vwTAQd57930kdXO8DdzkGGs6fKe8ppsLcQ6Sd-JSOq16kJs274gtcv89wWn_JbSXKI-CGOJ4tXEBRWmp7Rhv4Vxs6Z4Uth3vhWBl7vuAsvBThFw10oTB1LYgPm1__ggqJO00U50/s1600/2006AM5125_jpg_ds.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT51P1vwTAQd57930kdXO8DdzkGGs6fKe8ppsLcQ6Sd-JSOq16kJs274gtcv89wWn_JbSXKI-CGOJ4tXEBRWmp7Rhv4Vxs6Z4Uth3vhWBl7vuAsvBThFw10oTB1LYgPm1__ggqJO00U50/s1600/2006AM5125_jpg_ds.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span id="docs-internal-guid-d7cdf1c4-12cc-fb5f-7efb-2cc3cb83becc" style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">If you look at art, the standing frill seems to have been done rather differently. </span><br /> </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi159-nfafeiiowBAgSkCjj5jqaZl2dmHHq88WOblEgvGNRbvYAdzE7Ii8nyuQ3hbS2CIMYo9-FxRhEcmcj_eMHOgsjazQnl1bjfhYnPpjwFUZp1eGMhE3ld-jLDMROLIAHTejALPQV8hc/s1600/1695-anne-de-souvre-marquis_med.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi159-nfafeiiowBAgSkCjj5jqaZl2dmHHq88WOblEgvGNRbvYAdzE7Ii8nyuQ3hbS2CIMYo9-FxRhEcmcj_eMHOgsjazQnl1bjfhYnPpjwFUZp1eGMhE3ld-jLDMROLIAHTejALPQV8hc/s1600/1695-anne-de-souvre-marquis_med.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.gogmsite.net/casual_dress_-_1641_to_1683/1695AnnedeSouvremarquisedeLouvois1646-1715bySimonDequoyVersailles.html">Anne de Souvré, marquise de Louvois by Simon Dequoy, 1695</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2wN67ZotUEBRM4Dbgr2xJg97Qt5dPHbEJKyEBTztnzX1ExkSwwW5tV3mqbndhPfF8J6DV4Qjx_zbW50lY8WfFtR2Vwnn3uktTQ74LUdlfQvez6qWKNYrG75joAXOc-QCYB8jWL_rRSXc/s1600/1699-mme-roig-nee-theresa_med.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2wN67ZotUEBRM4Dbgr2xJg97Qt5dPHbEJKyEBTztnzX1ExkSwwW5tV3mqbndhPfF8J6DV4Qjx_zbW50lY8WfFtR2Vwnn3uktTQ74LUdlfQvez6qWKNYrG75joAXOc-QCYB8jWL_rRSXc/s640/1699-mme-roig-nee-theresa_med.jpg" width="496" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.gogmsite.net/end_of_the_era_-_1684_to_17/1699-mme-roig-nee-theresa.html">16Mme Roig, née Theresa Gazanyola, unknown artist, 1699</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpnxLw3wJUqU9j-oBxC5BPqx3H2lLKYBAX0525Q26j0rdmYA2vrzjRkfUy5SOKytsKnB2-1Ysl_qO9HV8WuPcpfgy-R5m73Fm4YhNxYKckR9NdU2c75QSK3mqyRdzgnP8-fAg0lbBuysU/s1600/1712-1714-maria-luisa-gabri_med.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpnxLw3wJUqU9j-oBxC5BPqx3H2lLKYBAX0525Q26j0rdmYA2vrzjRkfUy5SOKytsKnB2-1Ysl_qO9HV8WuPcpfgy-R5m73Fm4YhNxYKckR9NdU2c75QSK3mqyRdzgnP8-fAg0lbBuysU/s1600/1712-1714-maria-luisa-gabri_med.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.gogmsite.net/end_of_the_era_-_1684_to_17/subalbum-maria-luisa-gabrie/1712-1714-maria-luisa-gabri.html">María Luisa Gabriela de Saboya by Miguel Jacinto Meléndez, 1712-1714</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWuK6ILOpXB0-XtTrl95-ubNTdAxtcgQFx4yeSz7cGtuJcNzeFJOxQNZ_fk012PELDWgfUaThUstJFa0GE_k1bKGV-EDTyDhp4TUTegCogfe6LoGgn1aCloV2yKr7V91ifqWN_-31PPGY/s1600/cms_pcf_1175916.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWuK6ILOpXB0-XtTrl95-ubNTdAxtcgQFx4yeSz7cGtuJcNzeFJOxQNZ_fk012PELDWgfUaThUstJFa0GE_k1bKGV-EDTyDhp4TUTegCogfe6LoGgn1aCloV2yKr7V91ifqWN_-31PPGY/s1600/cms_pcf_1175916.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.nationaltrustcollections.org.uk/object/1175916">Unknown widow, ca 1690</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6gNK7_StdmLWgdHU87y0VYjGFujwrCv1FZBzopNkLpNzks9zGV6SAHjHEr_jGI2tDCjoHKQvdOEKhGfnq8q7m0l5eEjrU2BgpiN4mw_N4c_a2cJKbR24AA8fF7b1KrWdM7RU5ny2HZWg/s1600/godfried_schalcken_portrait_of_maria_anna_of_pfalz-neuburg_consort_of_d5702386h.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6gNK7_StdmLWgdHU87y0VYjGFujwrCv1FZBzopNkLpNzks9zGV6SAHjHEr_jGI2tDCjoHKQvdOEKhGfnq8q7m0l5eEjrU2BgpiN4mw_N4c_a2cJKbR24AA8fF7b1KrWdM7RU5ny2HZWg/s1600/godfried_schalcken_portrait_of_maria_anna_of_pfalz-neuburg_consort_of_d5702386h.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/paintings/godfried-schalcken-portrait-of-maria-anna-of-5702386-details.aspx">Maria Anna of Pfalz-Neuburg by Godfried Schalcken, 1690 </a><br />
Go to the web page to be able to zoom in.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZyyjI6F_9ff9NRn8laCiXP3WRgeDnzTChtzqlAO5kw5WYYKHQkK8IloMyVR14_8HRAk28SQh48XGB_2b6L0VxikHGQwFwDmT_4TzZl9hd5eKc4CyNcnTRcZKY3iGDax_nPYZw5l32F_w/s1600/l_pl1_37400_fnt_tr_t98iv.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZyyjI6F_9ff9NRn8laCiXP3WRgeDnzTChtzqlAO5kw5WYYKHQkK8IloMyVR14_8HRAk28SQh48XGB_2b6L0VxikHGQwFwDmT_4TzZl9hd5eKc4CyNcnTRcZKY3iGDax_nPYZw5l32F_w/s1600/l_pl1_37400_fnt_tr_t98iv.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://art.thewalters.org/detail/12644/portrait-of-the-marchioness-angela-maria-lombardi/">Marchioness Angela Maria Lombardi, unknown artist, ca 1710</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTYiN0DfnTFdRCwcLVxXz3w5g7RSFt6crvkS0QcYFp43MChmyipxeU6XY_t4XUO57ZlI2kfQFoAC0LNRvIEA_gTIoESKd9kLAhvl0jbkwJAGNHK69OkqkQX8pea6lveNWCbUAM0WcZyv8/s1600/ma-31867880-WEB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTYiN0DfnTFdRCwcLVxXz3w5g7RSFt6crvkS0QcYFp43MChmyipxeU6XY_t4XUO57ZlI2kfQFoAC0LNRvIEA_gTIoESKd9kLAhvl0jbkwJAGNHK69OkqkQX8pea6lveNWCbUAM0WcZyv8/s1600/ma-31867880-WEB.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://collections.lacma.org/node/208132">Recueil des modes de la cour de France, 'Femme de qualité, en d'Eshabillé d'Esté' by Nicholas Arnout, 1687</a></td></tr>
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<span id="docs-internal-guid-d7cdf1c4-12cd-9ea4-6241-dcbc15511b58" style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">I’m making a modified version of two layers of fine white linen and lace made by my grandmother.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6K-5SPYsq1PBXonEx5ECk5FHum0X5kFyKxgWPzxqAAmZPhPLR72xXBp6aLxSxvBQg5O5P5ld83O-Mze2GukkA2sRFtHUDkVWOONdw1Kd8niskBCYzQwI58zNXF2kEiiVfuD4h5YbqGNg/s1600/11999831_10153248325438613_6235964250061537320_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6K-5SPYsq1PBXonEx5ECk5FHum0X5kFyKxgWPzxqAAmZPhPLR72xXBp6aLxSxvBQg5O5P5ld83O-Mze2GukkA2sRFtHUDkVWOONdw1Kd8niskBCYzQwI58zNXF2kEiiVfuD4h5YbqGNg/s640/11999831_10153248325438613_6235964250061537320_o.jpg" width="600" /></a></div>
<br />Isishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09380497568603304818noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580595753456307919.post-74489425242238833932015-08-26T13:32:00.000+02:002015-08-26T13:32:49.534+02:00Working women in late 18th century SwedenIt’s not quite true that I haven’t been sewing this year, I have worked on a couple of small cap and embroidery projects. But that is just about what my energy level has been up to. I haven’t blogged much either, but hopefully both sewing and blogging will work better for me now. So I thought you would be interested in seeing some of Pehr Hilleström’s (1732-1816) painting of working women I have seen this summer. Most were seen at an exhibition at Sven-Harry’s art museum and two at Julitta manor house. The picture quality is reflected by the fact that most were taken with my mobile phone.
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Some of you may remember that one of my costuming pet peeves is when a garment is dismissed just because it wasn’t worn at one particular place. The costume world is, for good reasons, turned toward England, France and North America, but there are a number of regional clothing differences and the working woman’s clothes often reflected that. For example, the dreaded sleeveless bodice and shift combo, was actually a perfectly acceptable for a peasant woman in Sweden during the 18th century. And coloured caps were also worn, something I was once told didn’t exist during the 1700s.
This laundress is wearing a bodice that seems unboned and a simple shift. Her blue cap is what in Sweden is known as a “bindmössa”. It’s a cap made of a coloured, often expensive fabric and in the 18th century it could cover the whole hair or just be placed on the back of the head. It often was (and is) stiffened. It’s still an important feature in many Swedish traditional costume. Originally this cap was worn over a white linen cap, but in the 18th century the cap was worn on it’s own. It could, however, be worn with a “stycke” (meaning piece) made of fine linen or lace and attached to the cap in a way which made it look like a separate cap was worn underneath. A ribbon bow was often attached to the back of the cap.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFhNqXJaS9kSoRweTpFamzvtfJ_SnrHFxi7JF5aYlA82ix0W_jIDiabdzgEQGrYAYdva88oMLoH4d9-xjtrCOr4e1AwQXinjiVhg1kFNVeh56Hdq9FpzsnHqiO6_GVYy_GuWO-BoZmi3U/s1600/16928_10153180881053613_5030000533874116895_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFhNqXJaS9kSoRweTpFamzvtfJ_SnrHFxi7JF5aYlA82ix0W_jIDiabdzgEQGrYAYdva88oMLoH4d9-xjtrCOr4e1AwQXinjiVhg1kFNVeh56Hdq9FpzsnHqiO6_GVYy_GuWO-BoZmi3U/s1600/16928_10153180881053613_5030000533874116895_n.jpg" /></a></div>
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A "bindmössa" could be worn by the middle classes as well. Bellamn mentions the rather wealthy Madame Bergström who is wearing a cap made of <span style="color: #222222;"> green silk moiré and decorated with silver lace. Underneath the cap she is wearing a "stycke" On the picture below y</span>ou can't see much of the actual cap, but you can see the "stycke"</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7RyxhbOBtE5YceKvZSxHjxbszEOgCLMA1_42FHOcW55liHoa70eRHMocaVLbpZvviCLbj-X9lbwy8lQM_gBAfQPOaqUjhlOl8YvVHFuH1eJ0fq0GvsxLXc16LfUUsJWzkluydeEt3jNc/s1600/11393018_10153024192748613_483300937391603648_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7RyxhbOBtE5YceKvZSxHjxbszEOgCLMA1_42FHOcW55liHoa70eRHMocaVLbpZvviCLbj-X9lbwy8lQM_gBAfQPOaqUjhlOl8YvVHFuH1eJ0fq0GvsxLXc16LfUUsJWzkluydeEt3jNc/s1600/11393018_10153024192748613_483300937391603648_n.jpg" /></a></div>
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This woman has very nice cuffs, I Think. She's not wearnig a cap, but a "klut", a neckerchief folded into a triangle and wrapped around the head.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyCEEB_hc8G4_pRQrGfKybQcOAFhXmPiCHeQ0UXclEnNDZ4irxqcuBx4y2S8KnifogmSkIpK_qYn08OTfchKVFUgDpmnF5LBX1tV9bjuQvbLesnsQKTWmLkJP1vgfXCzCRYysksqw3OFg/s1600/11094667_10153180880988613_6927023496096968545_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyCEEB_hc8G4_pRQrGfKybQcOAFhXmPiCHeQ0UXclEnNDZ4irxqcuBx4y2S8KnifogmSkIpK_qYn08OTfchKVFUgDpmnF5LBX1tV9bjuQvbLesnsQKTWmLkJP1vgfXCzCRYysksqw3OFg/s1600/11094667_10153180880988613_6927023496096968545_n.jpg" /></a></div>
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As is this woman</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTFg5UQFsCFxrOgH9j6F4bjtwhp_FfuUIEI1hZQoQO2UAasqa9Bi7DWawrN8l5bYqICHx10tfDptJRR9hCKh77L9HXTtOGlX5YPsQ-HHJe5QVrQRKE-JnBC7JFm9vC7scjVXSnUqdbrYY/s1600/9205094_fullsize.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTFg5UQFsCFxrOgH9j6F4bjtwhp_FfuUIEI1hZQoQO2UAasqa9Bi7DWawrN8l5bYqICHx10tfDptJRR9hCKh77L9HXTtOGlX5YPsQ-HHJe5QVrQRKE-JnBC7JFm9vC7scjVXSnUqdbrYY/s640/9205094_fullsize.jpg" width="546" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.bukowskis.com/sv/auctions/583/837-pehr-hillestrom-en-qvinna-som-ransar-fisk">Source</a></td></tr>
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Another bodice, this one clearly unboned. There are several extant ones and they range from being completely unboned, having bones in strategic placed up to half-boned. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGm0ngZ-aC90EgdCC6GTx75TPST_gahcgI9NmjlAKgqJFQ7RwV4ddBAjKrqFLmJ88MxF7AgeSSFEvlvhuu-bBd2GZfZQFjyi6XtydcRD7TQl0Si3boRxYVK5oD9c3nvtolbt3FcZ6Z348/s1600/Pehr_Hillestr%25C3%25B6m-Tv%25C3%25A5_tj%25C3%25A4nsteflickor_vid_en_b%25C3%25A4ck.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGm0ngZ-aC90EgdCC6GTx75TPST_gahcgI9NmjlAKgqJFQ7RwV4ddBAjKrqFLmJ88MxF7AgeSSFEvlvhuu-bBd2GZfZQFjyi6XtydcRD7TQl0Si3boRxYVK5oD9c3nvtolbt3FcZ6Z348/s1600/Pehr_Hillestr%25C3%25B6m-Tv%25C3%25A5_tj%25C3%25A4nsteflickor_vid_en_b%25C3%25A4ck.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pehr_Hillestr%C3%B6m">Source</a></td></tr>
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Of course white caps were worn as well</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.bukowskis.com/sv/auctions/577/208-pehr-hillestrom-en-som-plackar-fagel">Source</a></td></tr>
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These close-ups are from a large painting showing a party outside Svartsjö castle, showing a variety of clothes. Lots of stripes!</div>
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