Thursday, 19 May 2011
Sometimes it’s impossible to wear stays, like after surgery, and in 2005 I had urgent need of a loose jacket. I turned to Kvinnligt mode under två sekel by Britta Hammar och Pernilla Rasmussen for help. It’s one of my favourite costume books as it describes and gives patterns for extant clothe sin Sweden from the 18th and 19th century. Extra fun if you are Swedish, but a great complement to Janet Arnold too and a great pity that it’s both out of print and only available in Swedish. In it there is a lovely casaque from the early 18th century, with awesome embroideries. Now, I did a much simpler version, no collar and no real cuffs, I just pleated the end of the sleeves. The fabric is rather heavy cotton that I spiced up a little with adding a braid in white silk.
Worn with stays very loosely laced and over pocket hoops.
The back pleats are not sewn down at all, but are held together from the inside by a rectangular piece of fabric.
Worn without stays and hoops.