Wednesday, 10 July 2013

Making a 17th century shirt- setting in the sleeves and the gussets

The shirt is nearing its completion, the only thing left are the cuffs. The sleeves are very wide with only a portion of that gathered at the top of the shoulder. As with the collar, the body of the shirt is top-stitched to the sleeves.
 
 
The seam allowance are folded and sewn down invisibly, creating a false French seam. On the original shirt this is done on the side and sleeves seams.
 
 
Where the gathers are there is a strip of linen tape sewn over them. Probably because it would be too bulky to fold in the seam allowance. The inside looks very neat.
 
 
The gusset is a small rectangle, 8X8 cm when hemmed.
 
 
As my fabric doesn’t have selvedges, the fake French seams the original has would be much too bulky. Instead I sewed in the gusset from the right side. I always start with sewing the gusset from the corner were sleeves and bodice meet, first down the sleeves side, and then from the corner down the bodice side. After that I fold it so it meets the other side where the sleeve and bodice meet and repeat. Only I continue down the sleeve seam down the whole way, apart for a 10 cm long slit. Then I do the side seam the same way. As my shirt is shorter than the original one, my side split are much shorter, but start at the same place as the original, 46 cm down.
 
 
The gusset in place.
 
 
The side split is reinforced on the wrong side with a small rectangle of linen, 3X2 cm when hemmed.
 
 
The next post with show not only the cuff, but also the finished shirt.

6 comments:

MrsC (Maryanne) said...

It is all so pleasingly neat and crisp looking :) I wonder if 17th Century ladies making shirts got a sense of satisfaction from doing it too...

Kleidung um 1800 said...

The shirt is looking beautiful and your hand stitches are amazing! I have to keep in mind the trick with the linen tape on the gathered seam allowance.
I'm also always adding the hemmed gusset to shirts and chemises, rather than sewing the rectangle along with the other pieces, then fold it and stitch it down.

Thank you for all the detailed pictures.

Sabine

Isis said...

Maryanne: Thank you! I think they must have! After all, anyone must feel geed when watching something nicely done and knowing it is one's own work?

Isis said...

Sabine: Thank you! I see all my mistakes, but then I guess, I would. :) It is much handier to make the gusset this was, isn't it?

- said...

Hello,

I plucked up the courage to make a blogger account, and I just wanted to say that your shirt is stunning (just like the rest of your garments). I wish I had your talent and I'm a fashion design major.

Isis said...

Mademoiselle LaParisienne: Thank you so much! That's very sweet of you to say that!

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