Monday, 18 November 2013

Want-list for 2014, my new hair and a mysterious 17th century gown

I’ve been in a sewing funk lately. Or rather, I have been so tired that I haven’t had any energy to sew more than a few minutes at the time. A combination of the season and a cold that just doesn’t want to break out. Still, this year I have finished 16 sewing projects! I couldn’t quite believe it, but I have! Not all of these were UFO’s, but I have made a huge dent in that pile. I still have plenty left, but I hope that in March most of them will be finished as well. So I dare to make a to-do list for 2014 that will include some brand new projects, as well as some old planned ones. I do have UFO’s too, but I’m not listing them here. I doubt I will have all these finished by the end of 2014, though as I have promised myself that I will only work on one of these projects at the time. I also have my 40’s wardrobe project to work on as well. Another promise is to not do any last minute sewing. I will make deadlines, but rather long-term ones.

First out; A Swedish court gown, ca 1780. I need to buy fabric, but I plan to start this in January. It consists of petticoat, bodice and robe, plus decorations. I want this to be finished by July.

Lady in court gown, engraving by an unknown artist, 1786
A 1650’s outfit for J. Doublet, breeches, collar and cuffs. The doublet and breeches will be in black wool. To be finished by October.

Doublet and breeches in black silk, worn by Karl X of Sweden, 1650's, 19326 (3403:a)
1640’s collar and cuffs for my purple 1640’s gown. (Stalled at the moment- I managed to sew the gussets the wrong way, and ended up with two right fronts… I haven’t stopped being annoyed with myself yet) Also to be finished by October.

A mantua. I know I want to make one, but I don’t know if I want to make one that would fit both sides of 1700 with a stomacher or an earlier one with a closed front. Colourwise I’m thinking of making up this one:

Recueil des modes de la cour de France, 'Dame de Qualité en Manteau' by Nicholas Bonnart, 1682-1686
Which would make it an earlier one by default, but I’m also thinking of a brown/red with gold or a black with silver. I do know that I want a mantua, though. Speaking of which, my friend Johanna draw my attention to this mysterious “mantilj” from the 1690’s. It is made of white embroidered silk and black silk gauze, and is more like an enormous shawl, than a gown. The “sleeves” are no real sleeves; the fabric is just draped to look like that. It is basted to the stomacher, and the skirt is split both in the front and the back, according to the description. I’ve never seen anything like it. Have you? It is impossible to tell much from black and white pictures, and the gown in store at Nordiska museet in Stockholm. I would dearly love to se it in person!

From Mode. Klädedräktens historia genom fem sekler by Carolina Brown
An Edwardian skirt. There is a pretty active 19th century group in Stockholm and several of my friends participate, so it would be fun if I could go too. I’m rather under-whelmed with 19th century fashion, but they do stretch into the 1910’s, and I rather like Edwardian fashions. I finished my embroidered blouse earlier this year and I have a really nice blue-grey linen that would make a lovely skirt and with luck, a little jacket too. I also need to make a hat.

Ladies skirts, 1903
An embroidered early 17th century jacket. (And skirt). I’m still working on a little frog purse, but when it is finished I will need a new embroidery project.

Lady Elizabeth howard, Countess of Banbury by Daniel Mytens, ca 1619
I also need wigs! I cut off my hair a week ago, and now it looks like this.

I’m so pleased with it, but it’s kind of difficult to make period hairstyles with it. It’s is a little longer than chin-length at the front, so I guess I could do a mid-18th century style if I cover the back of my hair with a cap, but that’s about it. So I will need:

A 1640’s style

Frances, Countess of Portland by Sir Anthony van dyck, 1640
A late 17th century style. I’m really tempted to try a fontange hairstyle, which would suit if I make a later mantua.

Louise Françoise de Bourbon, mademoiselle de Nantes by François de Troy, 1688-1693
An Edwardian up-do

I also have an old wig in a rather horrible brassy colour, which I think could work for an early 17th century style.

Margaret Hay, Countess of Dunfermline by Marcus Gheeraerts, ca 1615


Madame Berg said...

So much fun to look forward to! I need a burst of inspiration (and some spare time) badly right now, so thanks for the push!

Kleidung um 1800 said...

I love to come here and see your enthusiasm, although admittedly I'm fascinated by a different time/clothing period. Nevertheless sewing-lists are inspiring and a wonderful account of creativity!


P.S.: Your new hairdo looks very cute :)

Sandra Brake said...

With hair like that you SOOOOOOO need to be doing something 20s! Looks fabulous!

Isis said...

Madame Berg: Yes, you need to get some 17th century goin now! ;)

Isis said...

Sabine. Enthusiasm and knowledge makes a blog interesting regardless of time period for me. I read a lot of costume blogs for that reason, even if it doesn't cover "my" periods. :)

Isis said...

Sabine. Thank you, btw! :D

Isis said...

A traveller in time: I know... Problem is that my figure is so not suited to the 20's style and I end up feeling dumpy. I'll go for some 30's styles instead that allow for more curves. :)

ZipZip said...

Dear Isis,

Your list is super! Lots of rarely made garments, and all of them so interesting.

Your new haircut looks great, by the way.

Very best,


Isis said...

Natalie: Thank you!

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