Monday, 27 October 2014


An odd sight, no people at all.
We have had our vacation and what an intense, exiting and plain wonderful trip it was! It didn’t start so good, though. We arrived in Venice quite early on Monday and the very first thing that happened was that J’s bag didn’t arrive. We had planned to not check in our bags at all, but they turned out to be too heavy, so we had to. Unfortunately none of us thought through that implication and left the tickets to Don Giovanni and the Orient Express in J’s bag instead of removing them and carry it with us. So here we were, in Venice, but without any clothes for J and without our tickets. It really didn’t bode well and we felt a bit panic stricken. However, at the hotel we phoned the London office for the Orient Express and they were immensely helpful and sent us a pdf with our tickets and also promised to call the Italy office and explain our situation. We also went to La Fenice and though they said that quite a few people try to get tickets with the I-have-lost-my-luggage-at-the-airport-ruse, we did get our tickets as J knew the date he paid for the tickets and also knew where our seats were. What a relief!
A lovely perfume shop were I utterly failed to buy anything. Bad me!
On our two days in Venice we mostly walked around, though we did a museum and also went to Caffe Florian at the San Marco Square and had the most expensive cup of coffee ever, but with the music and presentation it was all worth it.
As J’s bag still hadn’t tuned up on Tuesday, he also had to buy a dark suit for the opera. Don Giovanni at La Fenice was absolutely fabulous! The best Don Giovanni I have ever seen, actually. It had a very clever scenography, in a way it all looked the same, a blue rococo room with period furniture, but they used a revolving stage and created a number of different rooms, small cabinets, corridors, bedroom and so on. It was very dynamic and not the least boring. The cast was rather young, but very good and the interpretation of a Don Giovanni who is living harder and harder and in his self-destruction also destroys the life of every single person he interacts with was quite great. We came back to the hotel to find that J’s bag had finally caught up with us, which was another relief. 
Outside La Fenice
It was nice with a trip were it was suitable with wearing an evening gown not once, but twice!
We had great seats, basically straight opposite the scene.

I have never been to Venice before and I must say that I really liked it. It’s been a tourist attraction since forever and it is clearly very tuned into tourist as an income, but I was surprised that the souvenirs generally seems quite well made, especially considering the plastic crap that goes for souvenirs in Stockholm. Venice itself felt quite magical and somehow quite unconcerned by the hoards of tourists. It was a bit like one had stepped into a completely, not time, but a  different reality, with all the canals, the water who had a strange turquoise shade even when the weather was grey and no cars. I would love to come back; probably later in the autumn when there is a little bit less tourists.


Rowenna said...

Gorgeous pictures! Sounds like an incredible trip!

ZipZip said...

Dear Isis,
Venice. Odd, sweet Venice. It looks the same as when I was there, almost 20 years ago. You're right, it's both in and out of time, and many things do not seem to follow the rules of normal life, including that water.

When you showed the table setting at Florian's, I sighed without knowing it until afterwards, and then laughed. Small civilities make such big impacts. Definitely worth the price of the coffee.

Your seats for Don Giovanni were --- wow! What a stage. So emotive. It's apparent that the Don is near his end, for I see the toppled table and the smoke from Hell coming up. A young cast might do good to this tale, since it's a young man's folly that brings him down. We saw it here at the Lexington Opera last year with a cast from the university opera, and the youthfulness fit well most of the time.

What a vacation. Thank you for sharing and bringing it to life for us.

Very best,


Isis said...

Rowenna: Thank you! It really was and I haven't got around to tell you about the Orient Express and Paris yet. :)

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